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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yawn, Its been a long few days...

Id like to fill you in and get some input....

So.. Last Monday we went to sheeps crossing here in arizona. Its nothing serious a minivan can do it. I splashed some puddles (nothing higher then the bottom of the rims) Crawled 4L in some deep sand and had a gennerally good time.

Upon driving home wed, my wife drove us down a long hill (a hill we take daily to get home) at the bottom we sat at the red light. Once green she hits the gas... The engine begins to rev and doesnt move untill close to 3k rpm... then the check engine light comes on.... We pull over at circle K and check the hood / underbody its pristine with no noise or stains..

I decide to drive it home it cruises fine once it gets moving, the 1st gear seems to be out.... It drives home ok... Once im in my lot i decide to test the gears (bad idea) I put it in 1st,2nd and 3rd it doesnt move in any of those gears... The shifter also gets stuck in those gears and wont move to N or park so i had to slam it into park... Funny thing is Reverse works perfectly... Now after shifting gears the truck wont move at all....

I know about alot of the problems with my version (05' Nismo CC feb manufactured date) I havent checked the radiator fluid in the tank yet, i have only looked in the resiviour it looks fine and smells only like rad fulid...

i did check the tranny dipstick and it seems like theres almost no fluid in it the fulid smells like tranny fulid but seems tobe clear and have a slight rusty smell ... and slightly looks like watter/ brown mixture.. (verry hard to see)

So im at a stand still my powertrain warrenty expired feb 12th apparently even though im under 60k..

since then, I have scanned the computer and got the error code of P1754 TWICE One was pending like it has had the same problem before and fixed itself?... or maybe its becasue of the nismo package playing with the computer...

Nissan says P1754- I/C Solenoid function.

Hanes says P1754 - Coast Clutch Solenoid circut Malfunction.

I tried to test the transmission fuses (the brown blocks under the hood) the connectors have connectivity but theres no way for me to test the fuse itself... im wondering if i should change them to see if that solves the problem... but i bet there expensive and not returnable...

I wondering if i should take it to my local shop and pay the $100 to diagnoise it (without taking apart the tranny) or maybe try to change the fulid and the fuses first...

Your input is appreciated.. :(

Thanks
BluJay
 

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pull the radiator cap, its not gonna be pretty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Pulled the cap before sundown...

I think i want to pull the plug in the morning and check for shavings or another monster of sorts...
 

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you got one toasted tranny. just take it to a good tranny shop, you probably smoked the fluid and the extra load of the sand cooked the clutch packs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
what leads you to believe that, isnt there a serries of things to check before lobbing in into the shop?
 

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Anytime you have severe shifting problems and fluid discoloration at 60k, there's an internal problem. I work at a transmission shop and we see this all the time. Under normal driving conditions we recomend cutting trans service times in half. And when off roading or towing, it needs to be done even more. ATF should be bright red, brown is burnt and dirty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well i think im going to try some things first...

Checked the oil


And the T fulid


Draining the tfulid now and will replace the filter while im at it.

If money allows ill change the oil too. havent seen any cross contamination yet...
 

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I doubt changing the fluid now will do anything. If the clutchs and bands are fryed you are just wasting money on new fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
im hopein thatsnot the case...

After oepning the pan everything looks really well for the trouble i had...


Even the filter looks decent..
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
So all done, reset the battery...

started up perfect moved in reverse and drive like it should.... check engine light is even off....


2 problems...

the VDC remains off per the truck itself i cannot turn it on .... it usually starts up with t off.... (edit) after driving for 5 min it shut itself off..

2nd.. once put into drive or reverse the tensioner shakes and makes noise... (edit) upon putting more rpm to the engine it quiets out...

Any input?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Tried a few inclines near my house.. no more then 60 degrees .. seems to work fine....

I did notice some heavy gear changes when first rolling with OD on...after moving its fine...

with OD off however it runs more smooth...

I guess it just has to do with the not having to change gears as much with it off..

How do you all drive with od on or off in city?
 

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I leave OD on unless im towing somthing and its kicking in and out... But I would be ready to spend some cash on a new transmission pretty soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Unfortunatly i think its comming too...

I dont think i can bear to drop her off at the stealership and drive off with some floozey... :thatswck:

but payments on something that is broken, doesnt go down right either... :(

Its an awesome truck, so sad to see it with these types of problems...
 

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screw the dealership, find a local trans shop.

With as bad as your Trans fluid was, you may need to do flush to get the rest of the stuff out. A/Ts hold 2-5 quarts of ATF when you do a drain and fill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Ok so i finally got around to finishing the flushes...

Transmisson - 2nd plug n fill - tried to change the trans oil filter but apparently it only comes with new transmissions... the only way to clean it is with a flush machine... per the dealer...

Rear diff- Had almost no fulid in it it drizzled out for over an hour and was quite clean and slick... (quite odd)

Front diff - was dark but still usable no metal shavings verry littel gunk...

T Case- was BLACK tons of metal shavings on the plug, =( [found a good way to refull without a pump, i used a lucas oil stablizer bottle to fill worked great just like with the diffs]

Engine oil- was black .. oddly enough its 3k miles since the last change, none the less its brand new now.

Bypass- Bought the part from the dealer and when comes down to it i diddnt need anything other then vice grips.. took the outlit from the radiator and put it straight to the trans, and looped the leftover cord on the radiator to avoid leaks of antifreeze if its cracked and leftover trans oil... i did however blow as much as i could out before re routing itself...

I was howerver unable to change the idler... noone in town seems to have one even the stealerships...

I'm going to drive it around today and see what i feel...

Thanks for the Guides and input guys / gals

If theres any more input please fire away..
 

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Sorry to hear about your troubles and I hope you got them worked out. I would also like to say thanks for all your updates so we have some record for future reference. Since I see that you're local I may be able to get you better dealer pricing on OEM parts.

Thanks again for the follow up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for that i will probably take you up on it.

325mile check in,

I noticed a few things to take note of.

1. In the morning when its cool (before the sun bakes the truck) The trans has trouble shifting to 2nd it takes a long rev then kicks me forward a bit. after once or twice at low rpm it becomes smooth as silk and i NEVER feel shifting (wich is odd becasue i can always feel it..

2. The MPG has risen from 13.2 to 16.4 I find that to be quite a significant change seeing as im having trouble with the truck not improving it so to say.

3. The rear sounds like a small pop when im at odd angles trying to park or austin powers my way into a tiny spot. It sounds like the driveshaft maybe bad rear u joint? Is there a specific way to check and how easy is it to change?

Thanks again everyone,
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Intresting enough its back, P1754 x2 one for a throw and one recurring...:thatswck:

Its got to be the Solenoid or lose ground(s).

Or atleast its a better place to start then the contamination which im sure i avoided for the most part over 6m/8k miles & 2 flushes ago.

Seeing as its 7:30 and transmission shops are closed.

Can you tell me where the Input Clutch Solenoid is located. I spent some time online and in haynes manual. And i cant come to the conclusion if its an electrical component like a fuse or a mechanical component inside the transmission. I'm hoping that i can keep this within the scope of the home mechanic.

Also does anyone have a website or printout of sorts of all the transmission grounds and where they are located? So that i may re tighten them all.


Appreciate your pennies =)
 

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