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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all
So, this morning, I fired up the rig to go to a job interview (got laid off Monday) and found that I had no dash lights. No dash cluster, no climate control lights, nada.
The dome and map lights work just fine, all, and I mean ALL, the fuses in the panel are good, and the truck runs as good as ever (save a bit cool, after replacing the heater core in August...runs a tad in the cool side, but the cab warms up fine...another story for another post)

The headlights work, and the tail lights are fine, too, including the canopy brake light.

In light of all that (no pun intended) I'm thinking that the dimmer switch gave up the ghost.
Am I on the right path here, or is something else possibly awry that I'm not seeing?

EDIT

Also...what is the bloody damn part number?
Trying to find one online doesn't get me anywhere other than Ebay...and I want a new part, not somebody's cast-off used bit.
 

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"In light of all that (no pun intended) I'm thinking that the dimmer switch gave up the ghost."

Test it with a test light or digital voltmeter, don't guess. With lights switched on, dimmer switch should have positve voltage going in, but if faulty no positive voltage coming out. If so, replace or bypass the switch if dimming not needed by you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The best I could get at the connector was 0.4mV, which I assume is good for a simple dimmer operation. In trying to bypass, I tested that with a paperclip tucked into the various sockets on the connector, with no difference in dash light operation..

What am I doing wrong here? (Electrical isn't my strongest suit)
 

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Also...what is the bloody damn part number?
Trying to find one online doesn't get me anywhere other than Ebay...and I want a new part, not somebody's cast-off used bit.
I'll bet you'll be ok with a used one after you search for a new one.
Part #259809Z400

 

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Get a wiring diagram for your year, see if there's a separate fuse for the cluster lights (some vehicles use a combined circuit for these with the taillights and marker lights). Right now, if you're testing correctly, sounds like no voltage is getting to the dimmer switch; if so, not the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll bet you'll be ok with a used one after you search for a new one.
Part #259809Z400

Just called my local Nissan shop....that part is no longer in production (or no longer "procured").
Guess it'll have to be ebay. Yuck.
 

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Mac - read my post above: if you're not getting positive voltage TO the switch with lights switched ON, then likely the issue is NOT the switch.
 

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Check fuse #11, 10amp
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Mac - read my post above: if you're not getting positive voltage TO the switch with lights switched ON, then likely the issue is NOT the switch.

I did read it, but was replying to the post about the replacement switch.
I'm searching out a wiring diagram now. All the fuses check out, and the fusible links in the engine compartment aren't blown,either. I'm at a loss.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've tried jumping the connector to just leave the dash lights fully lit, with no luck. The only other thing I can think of that might have an effect on the dash lights (and any other lights, for that matter) is the combination switch, on the steering column.

To clarify, every other light works just fine. It's only the dash cluster, climate control, and transmission back-light that don't work.
 

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Just called my local Nissan shop....that part is no longer in production (or no longer "procured").
Guess it'll have to be ebay. Yuck.
I'd check the local pick n pull first. It'd be cheaper than Ebay and you'd be able to choose the best switch of the bunch. I say that because there are always plenty of Xterras at the JY and few Frontiers.
 

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I've tried jumping the connector to just leave the dash lights fully lit, with no luck.

Duh !!! Of course that doesn't work - you already established that you had ZERO voltage there !!!


Consider electric like water in a garden hose: you have water coming out the faucet (the battery) but none coming out the end of the hose (the cluster lights). Problem is in between.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I ask because I pulled my tail light fuse and turned on the parking lights and the instrument panel had no power.
I owe you an apology, amigo.
My wife spotted my trailer wiring harness, and it was a melted mess. It's been on there for I don't know how long, with no problem...til now.

Anyway, I chased it up to the fusebox under the hood and double checked them, now that we have sun instead of the usual gray/rain here in the PNW. Sure enough, a blown 15 amp tail light fuse.

Replaced that, after removing the toasted harness, and viola'...tail lights work...and dash lights too.

Here's a pic before I yanked the damn thing.

I'm sorry, man. I discounted your advice out of hand, thinking I had it covered, instead of double checking. Totally my fault. Won't do that again.

313857
 

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OK. I bet you learned a lot recently !!!
 

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I ask because I pulled my tail light fuse and turned on the parking lights and the instrument panel had no power.
Same circuit - like on my '88 Mazda truck. Radio show mechanic said this was intentional so that driver would be warned that he had no tail lights or front marker lights. However, I don 't know that such information makes its way into vehicle owner's manuals.
 
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