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Yeah, I won't be running the spacer at all. I had actually planed to do an SAS but after calculating the cost to rebuild the axles, 3 link in the front, high steer and all the little bits that come along with it I thought I should probably look into the IFS stuff more. It was looking like $10k. If it was a dedicated crawler I could see that but for a DD/weekend wheeler it doesn't seem to make a lot of sense. I'll be doing 3 maybe 4 rated trails. It's going to be an overland vehicle for driving to locations, wheeling and driving home. My wife and 2 kids will be going as well so it has to be decent on the highway.

I've only got the C200k rear axle though. I could swap in an a dana from the junk yard but that's probably $1k-1.5k.

So for now I am thinking Calmini DB ($1600), Radflo CO ($900), either lifted rear springs or maybe an aal + shackle depending on how much lift I can get our of that and what the cost costs are. I'm trying to keep it at or below $4k for now. After that I can deal with the axles.

You removed your sway bar right? Hows it handle without it?
If you have any suggestions based on my plans feel free to share them.

Thanks again for your info man. It's a huge help.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Yeah, I won't be running the spacer at all. I had actually planed to do an SAS but after calculating the cost to rebuild the axles, 3 link in the front, high steer and all the little bits that come along with it I thought I should probably look into the IFS stuff more. It was looking like $10k. If it was a dedicated crawler I could see that but for a DD/weekend wheeler it doesn't seem to make a lot of sense. I'll be doing 3 maybe 4 rated trails. It's going to be an overland vehicle for driving to locations, wheeling and driving home. My wife and 2 kids will be going as well so it has to be decent on the highway.

I've only got the C200k rear axle though. I could swap in an a dana from the junk yard but that's probably $1k-1.5k.

So for now I am thinking Calmini DB ($1600), Radflo CO ($900), either lifted rear springs or maybe an aal + shackle depending on how much lift I can get our of that and what the cost costs are. I'm trying to keep it at or below $4k for now. After that I can deal with the axles.

You removed your sway bar right? Hows it handle without it?
If you have any suggestions based on my plans feel free to share them.

Thanks again for your info man. It's a huge help.
Yeah, SAS'ing your DD isn't for the faint of heart, especially if you drive on the hwy a lot.
Believe me, you can do some seriously retarded stuff with a properly spec'd IFS rig. Not that I know from personal experience or anything :angel:
Yes, if you go to COs you can ditch the sway bar. It handles great on the road and makes a night and day difference off road. If you do want to ditch it I'd suggest going with the 2.5" COs over the 2.0s. You'll get a lot better damping and more predictable handling.
Figure about 700-750 plus shipping for custom leaf packs unless you're close enough to Deaver, National or Alcan to pick them up. Figure about 30% more articulation and twice the life span from custom packs as opposed to stock packs with blocks or AALs. You'll need shackles to get the full range of motion out of custom packs but you can probably use the ones the Calmini kit comes with. Just make sure you take that extra lift into account when you order your new leafs. I run the PRG shackles in the middle setting. That being said, I've had pretty good luck with the Deaver AAL and dumping the stock o-load leaf. That's a pretty cheap upgrade over the blocks that will work well for a couple years if the 750 is a bit too steep right now.
I'd also stick with the C200k for now. It would be great to be able to drop a locker in it to beef it up a bit but that's another good chunk of change. You can always upgrade to a locker or even a take off M226 down the road if you feel the need. If you plan on going to 35s you'll want to bump this up the priority list for sure.
I'm more than happy to answer questions. I've had enough different suspension combos on these trucks to have a pretty good idea of what works where. And who wants to throw money away on stuff that doesn't work when someone has already done the research?
 

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I've got the Bilstien lifted shocks up front and shackles in the rear. Could I swap some OME coils up front and move the spring plate up .5-1" to get about 2.5 to 3" total? What I'm thinking is maybe I just stick with the bilstiens for now and get an M226 rear axle with locker and 3.69 gears, swap out the front dif for 3.69, get some sliders and some skid plates and wheel it as is. I've got 33"s on it already as well. I had 35"s but they rub on the frame rail at full lock and I didn't want to run spacers or get new wheel so I swapped them for the 33"s. It's always been my belief that gears and lockers make more of a difference than a big lift. Next go around I could do the DB lift and COs.
rear axle $900
Front diff $250
Sliders $500
Skid plates $500 ($750 for aluminum)
Rear AAL $120

Has anyone run the aluminum skid plates? They are a bit more expensive but a whole lot lighter. I'm just wondering about their strength.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I actually had the Bils with 608 coils on them and the silly extensions on my old truck with the Fabtech kit on it. They worked ok on the street to carry the weight of the plate bumper and winch but they just don't have enough damping capacity for wheeling. They blow through their avail travel almost instantly on big hits. They work fairly well on trucks that don't carry a bunch of extra weight.
If you're going to bigger coils I wouldn't go past the .5" land. It's asking for trouble, especially with the 608 coils. The shocks will eventually tear themselves apart from topping out.
There are a couple of locals running the alum Hefty skids. They are less than half the weight of the steel ones. They are definitely an option unless you wheel in boulders frequently. They slide pretty well, they just gouge much easier so their life span would be dramatically shortened if you lean on them a lot. My truck is so far off of the ground that I'm actually considering swapping all but the oil pan skid out for alum. It's the one that usually takes the biggest hits and covers the most expensive component so that one will remain steel.
 

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I'm not running a plate bumper yet. I'll be getting the shrokworks one down the road though. I think I"ll skip the coils for now and put that money towards PRG COs down the road. Good point on the gauges in the aluminum plates. I like your idea of a steel engine skid plate and aluminum on the rest which are less likely to take a beating. Thanks again for your insight and answering all my questions.
 

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Thanks for posting this thread. I just checked Calmini's website and it looks like they are different 2 different 5" kits now - one with and the other without the Sway-A-Way- Coilovers. Were both of those available when you decided on a product?
I would like to take my '13 4x4 to another level as well, but for looks and street use only. I'm hoping not to spend a whole lot more after the lift kit, but would like to get is as high as possible (within reason).
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Thanks for posting this thread. I just checked Calmini's website and it looks like they are different 2 different 5" kits now - one with and the other without the Sway-A-Way- Coilovers. Were both of those available when you decided on a product?
I would like to take my '13 4x4 to another level as well, but for looks and street use only. I'm hoping not to spend a whole lot more after the lift kit, but would like to get is as high as possible (within reason).
Yes, the kit with the SAWs has been avail for a while. I preferred to go with custom tuned Radflos instead.
If you want to get more than the spec'd 5" of lift you'll need COs. If the lift is mostly for looks you'll be fine with the rear blocks/shackles as it comes and the SAWs they use for their "performance" package lift. You won't need to buy anything else for your uses. You can easily get about 7" of front lift. The back is limited by the components provided in the kit. If you want much more than that you're back into buying more parts like aftermarket UCAs to prevent coil bucket contact and custom rear springs and shocks.
 

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It sounds like you don't have a very high opinion of the SAW COs. Other than swapping those out for Radflos, possible after market UCA and springs on the rear is there anything else you would suggest changing?
I picked up a nismo M226 yesterday and a front diff both with 3.69 R/P. Looking at the next steps now; armor then more lift.

Also, are the Radflos from PRG valved specifically for the frontier when you purchase them?
 

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Discussion Starter #49
It sounds like you don't have a very high opinion of the SAW COs. Other than swapping those out for Radflos, possible after market UCA and springs on the rear is there anything else you would suggest changing?
I picked up a nismo M226 yesterday and a front diff both with 3.69 R/P. Looking at the next steps now; armor then more lift.

Also, are the Radflos from PRG valved specifically for the frontier when you purchase them?
From what I've heard from friends who have them, the SAWs perform as well as just about any other CO out there. They are just unanimous in their dislike for the customer service related to their product. My Radflos were tuned for my specific application and the Radflo facility is close and the guys there are great.
Sounds like you found a good deal on a bolt in, complete set up. Nice!
As for suggestions, It's like I said, you can spend as much money as you have available depending on how crazy you want to go. Personally, if you're not going hardcore wheeling on a regular basis I'd stick with the kit, COs of your choice, UCAs of your choice and rear springs, shackles and shocks to finish it off. That will allow you to go as high as you want (up to about 8 or 9") and still have a good performing and riding rig. And don't forget to order a custom steel driveshaft if you're going beyond 4 or 5" in the rear with custom leaf packs as the stock one won't fit anymore if you're a CCSB. Not sure on the KCLB.
If you wanna go crazy after that you can add 35s, gearing, front locker, cro-mo axles, plated LCAs, armor, winches and the list goes on... Feel free to check out my build if you want ideas on how to best throw your hard earned money into the big hole in the driveway ; )
 

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Yes, the kit with the SAWs has been avail for a while. I preferred to go with custom tuned Radflos instead.
If you want to get more than the spec'd 5" of lift you'll need COs. If the lift is mostly for looks you'll be fine with the rear blocks/shackles as it comes and the SAWs they use for their "performance" package lift. You won't need to buy anything else for your uses. You can easily get about 7" of front lift. The back is limited by the components provided in the kit. If you want much more than that you're back into buying more parts like aftermarket UCAs to prevent coil bucket contact and custom rear springs and shocks.
Yes- just for looks/street use. So what would you suggest to do to get additional height out of either one of the kits. How could I get to the 7" with the Calmini or I suppose 8" with the Fabtech?
 
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