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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

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I have a very similar set up and found that it does work for taking out the swirls when used properly. It won't buff out the surface scratches like the Dewalt DW849 will but the porter cable won't burn thru the paint like the Dewalt will. Just make sure you use the right compound, it is more about the compound then the buffer itself.
 

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Yes, you can correct paint that has medium to light imperfections (like swirls) with that set-up.
I have a Porter Cable DA and various pads and compounds.
It works wonders.
I get all my stuff from Autogeek.net (no I don't work for them, they've just always treated me right, hence my allegiance to them).

Here's a similar kit from them: Meguiars Porter Cable Ultra Polish Kit with 5.5 Inch Pads, Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Polishing Kit, Meguiars polishes, Porter Cable 7424 Mirror Glaze

Also, I swear by Meguiars' compounds, but that's just my opinion, lots of good stuff out there.
 

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i suggest visiting autopia.org and conduct some research.. lots of good products out there.

lake county pads and menzerna with a porter cable work wonders.
be sure to clay 1st and find a durable last step product
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I ended up ordering that kit that includes new Portal Cable w/ backing plate, Pads, Compounds, towels, etc. Has a easy 4-step system. Heard good things about it. Should fix my problem. Because it looks bad in the sunlight. Looks good at night only. I already just Clay bar the whole truck. The place i ordered the kit from is in florida so i'll be getting it today and had a 30% discount. So got a good deal on it.

Oh BTW i got 1 dent just above the drivers front fender where it's vertical. What is something that is cheap that i can buy to pull it out maybe.

Thanks.
 

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if you can find " dent king "

it was a 3 suction cup contraption...................wont work 100% but i have seen it help dents.

my brother in law bought one years ago
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So last weekend I used the DA polisher using the 4 step system. Defect, swirl remover, polish, paint sealant. It took around 5 hours. Washing the truck and going over the whole truck 4 times with the buffer. I was a lot of work. The results were very nice. I would say seeing the truck in direct sunlight it removed 90% of the swirls. I'm happy with the product and how it turned out. I'll probably go over it again another time except only using the swirl pad/compound since that just does swirls and acts like a polish and the paint sealant. That way i can probably do the truck around only couple hours.

As far as that dent puller thing. It didn't do crap. I ended up returning it at autozone. I'm just going to have a mobile PDR remove some dents that are noticeable to me.

And i'm either going to have a body shop look at it or try myself with my driver door. Lower half of it sticks out like a 1/4 inch form the cab/body. I think it just needs realigned. Idk.
 

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You need to make sure that you clay the vehicle before you polish, claying removed embedded containments in your clear coat that conventional washing won't do. If you do not do this step then you will grind the stuff into the clear causing more damage then good.

Also, after each polishing step you need to do an Isopropyl Alcohol Wipedown (90%, mix with distilled water 1:1). This will remove any oils from polishing that will of filled in swirls/scratches. That way you can actually tell how much correction you got. Also is a must before you add your wax/sealant, as it will not bond correctly if the surface isn't clean.
 

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You need to make sure that you clay the vehicle before you polish, claying removed embedded containments in your clear coat that conventional washing won't do. If you do not do this step then you will grind the stuff into the clear causing more damage then good.
Correct.

Also, after each polishing step you need to do an Isopropyl Alcohol Wipedown (90%, mix with distilled water 1:1). This will remove any oils from polishing that will of filled in swirls/scratches. That way you can actually tell how much correction you got. Also is a must before you add your wax/sealant, as it will not bond correctly if the surface isn't clean.
Not necessarily true.
Meguiar's products for example recommend NOT doing an IPA wipe down.
This varies from product to product.
Follow your manufacturer's instructions closely and you'll be fine.

IPA spot wipe downs are great for checking your work as you correct the paint.
I use it for that and for getting junk off the trim (polish, wax, etc.).
 

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Correct.



Not necessarily true.
Meguiar's products for example recommend NOT doing an IPA wipe down.
This varies from product to product.
Follow your manufacturer's instructions closely and you'll be fine.

IPA spot wipe downs are great for checking your work as you correct the paint.
I use it for that and for getting junk off the trim (polish, wax, etc.).

No offense to you, but if you talk to any professional who knows what they are really taking about, they will tell you to do a wipe down after each polishing session.
 

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No offense to you, but if you talk to any professional who knows what they are really taking about, they will tell you to do a wipe down after each polishing session.
No offense taken, I enjoy hearing other people's opinions and knowledge.

Meguiars specifically tells you that an IPA wipe down is not required with their products, I've read this numerous places on the net.
This is just one of many reasons I use Meguiars products.

Not disputing that an IPA wipe down is a step used by most professionals.
The average Joe, I suspect, will not go to this length.
 
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