Nissan Frontier Forum banner
1 - 3 of 3 Posts

2013 CC SV 4x4
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
On Fathers Day 22 I was able to get a couple of hours alone (not really) to work on my audio build within the Frontier.

What has been done:

What hasn't been done:
  • Sound deading around the cab (I plan for the doors)
  • Aux inputs
  • Tuning (yet!)
  • Sub and Sub Amp
  • Ham Radio Transiver install
  • Relay installation for remote-power-turn-on

Earlier this year - I purchased my 2013 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab SV 4x4 V6 from my father who was retiring and moving out of country. Truck is pretty well maintained and for only have 50k miles on it, it was a bargain.

Before my acquisition, he had the Pioneer head unit replaced. I really like the unit, everything worked as expected (BT, Android Auto/CarPlay, Backup Camera) but I wanted a little more from the audio system. I don't drive into an office each day so when I do drive, it's usually for pleasure.

I will never understand why car audio shops splice directly into the factory wiring. It feels lazy. It feels rushed. It turns into a huge PITA if you ask me. Regardless, I won't be sending any other business that way. I digress.

My first task was plumbing the power to the amplifier. I chose to install the 4-channel amp under the drivers seat as there appeared to be adequate room and didn't seem too difficult to access when I need. Starting at the batter, I ran a section of 4-gauge (red) wire up the right side of the engine bay following the firewall over to the left side of the vehicle. After looking at several "Amp Install Kits" I was very disappointed with the size of what they considered 4 gauge wire and what I considered 4 gauge wire. (For those of you following along, I know that 4 gauge wire seems like overkill for the 46CXA460.4T -- I'll get to that shortly).

It's pretty close to 18" away from the battery terminal, but I did install a 100A in-line fuse. It is using double-sided automotive tape to stick to the top of the fuse box in the attached picture. I considered bolting it down, but didn't want to compromise the lid to the fuses and allow moisture in.

Hood Car Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle

Running the 4 gauge wire through the firewall is cake, there's an existing grommet that you can pop out and use.

On the inside of the firewall, I terminate the 4-gauge wire into a distribution block. This was my first big hurdle of the install. I originally had purchased a 4 circuit distro with a ground buss included but it was a very tight fit and would have been difficult to plumb wires into it. I really did like the idea of having one big ground block, but oh well. I ended up going for a 3-way distro that fits almost perfectly. Right now I have it attached, without issue [yet] using double sided automotive molding tape. It has some screw holes in the back for a better mounting option - I just didn't have the means to drive any self tapping screws in without needing additional back surgery.

This power distribution block is the reason why I opted for the 100A fuse in the engine compartment. I don't know what amp/sub combo I'll go for, but I already know I'll need power to the 4-channel amp here, a Ham Radio and the next "amp". I think this gives me the options with just being able to swap out some fuses when appropriate.

Automotive lighting Telephone Audio equipment Corded phone Gas

From this power distribution point, I was able to run 8 gauge wire down the door sill to the drivers seat and eventually the amp. I looked for a bit on the best place to ground the amp and finally decided that a seat bolt was the closest and easiest to get to. I sanded down some paint, crimped on a large enough connector and went to town. For what it's worth - I don't have a big crimper, but what I do have is a machine bench press that I've been able to "make work". :)

With power and ground wiring run I started to look at the remote-turn on. This is where I started to get grumpy. I knew I wanted to run some 9-wire from behind the head unit over to the amp. What I didn't realize is how much of a rats-nest the wiring turned into from the head unit installer. After some contemplation, I realized that the center console has a 12V power outlet that is controlled by power on. I was able to tap into that for remote power on with a very short run.

Next up was start wiring up the speaker outputs. I run a section of 9-wire from the amp up the center console 'channel' where I terminated the front speaker cross overs (they are components) and tied into a wire harness that i bought and installed. (Grrr, that audio installer should have already done that).

The tweeters as part of the components fit perfectly in the dash after mounting them to a plastic bracket. The wires included were long enough and made things really easy to **** up. The crossovers have a 0,3,6dB adjustment for the tweeter "loudness" on them. Right now they are set to +6dB and I'm OK with it. Of course, I haven't really set the gain on the amp.

My next tasks are going to be (i think):
  1. A little bit of clean up
  2. Gain 'Tuning'
  3. Subs and Sub Amp
  4. Ham Radio install (with antenna mount)
  5. Sega Genesis install

Pic's to come soon =)
1 - 3 of 3 Posts