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This is my home-brewed fuse and relay centre, designed, engineered, constructed and installed by yours truly. Being very careful to take my time, it worked perfectly the first time right out of the box, no correcting misplaced wiring.

313738
 

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Thx Ram, appreciate the kudos. Due to the amount of space ( or lack thereof ) I spent more time thinking about how to fit it than actually building it. Build time I'm guessing was about 4 -1/2 hrs, I think I spent easily at least that much on CAD and cardboard-n-tape 3D cut-outs trying to figure configuration size, shape and location.
I considered under the dash on the driver's kickpanel as another potential but ended up with this, I prefer all the heavy cabling under the hood just for ampacity and short wiring's sake. I will prob end up mounting a Blue Sea ignition-switched sub-fuse panel on the driver's kickpanel area, there is a nice open space to the left of the steering column.
 

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This is my home-brewed fuse and relay centre, designed, engineered, constructed and installed by yours truly. Being very careful to take my time, it worked perfectly the first time right out of the box, no correcting misplaced wiring.

View attachment 313738
now THIS is a beauty!!!!
 

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Thx Rob, appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
You can ditch the HDC. It sounds great in theory, but rarely is practical. Only time its useful is if you have a long steep grade with consistent surface.
So if you find yourself headed down a steel slope of basketball size rocks, nope. A slope that changes its angle several times, nope. Loose gravel, maybe...
You have to be in 4x4 for it to work at all. And if you have a short or easy slope that you have to pick your way down, it will let the truck get way too much speed.
I live in New Mexico so there is actually a lot of terrain that I can use it for. In fact I have already put it to use. I doubt I would use it much but I'm not going to remove the switch either.
 

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Discussion Starter #28

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I don’t have much to contribute here, just thrilled to follow along in all this knowledge!! I have one aftermarket switch installed, left of steering column as @The other Sean noted, but it’s not connected (YET!!)
@mtyler11 Really appreciate the feedback about HDC switch practicality / removal and
@RyanD1966 - Daaang dude that setup is, well.. NASA worthy for sure!!

How do you all deal with battery drain? I had mine tested and it’s only running 14 active voltage (sorry probably not right term), and they said it’s due to factory subwoofer etc drain and that adding a light bar would require a battery upgrade? Any suggestions? Thanks
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JeanGrey, someone gave you poor advice. Your battery is only in play to keep computers and accessories powered while your truck is off, to provide power to start your engine, and to provide power ( for a limited period obviously ) when OEM or owner-added accessories are on, such as interior lighting, and the engine is off.
Once the engine is running, the battery is for the most part superfluous. Its only "for the most part" because it is an integral part of the charging system , it acts as a buffer to prevent voltage spikes in the electrical system and because the Frontiers in later years use the "new-fangled" fuel-saving charging mode, sometimes the alternator is "shut-off" via removing the excitation field to the alternator windings, and letting the truck run on battery only until it passes a pre-programmed point and the alternator turns back on again. This is all controlled by the ECM / PCM. However if you are pulling more amperes out of the system than the alternator is providing ( especially an issue at engine idle, where alternator output even at max, is fairly low ) eventually the battery will be drained. LED light bars do not require near enough amperes to cause an issue like this, unless you have 18 of them mounted and are having aircraft at JFK follow you for landing instructions.
Winching is the only common example I can think of, that would potentially cause a serious battery undercapacity situation to potentially exist, as they can easily outstrip the alternator's ability to replenish capacity pulled from the battery ( ampere-hours ). In that case a 2 or 3 battery configuration could be desirable.
A 7.5HP winch ( 1HP = 768 watts ) can potentially draw 420 - 480 amperes in short bursts. The Frontier's alternator is, I believe, around 130 amp, and the biggest I've seen in recollection was about 250 - 275 amps for ambulance / EMS diesel duty.
This Delco-Remy produces 430 amperes, is nearly a foot long and weighs 43 pounds.
 

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How do you all deal with battery drain? I had mine tested and it’s only running 14 active voltage (sorry probably not right term), and they said it’s due to factory subwoofer etc drain and that adding a light bar would require a battery upgrade? Any suggestions? Thanks
Your battery puts out about 12.6V. Your alternator puts out 13.1 to 13.8 and peaks at 14.2 iirc
Thats plenty within nominal values. Even if they were really rounding (like calling 13.5 as 14) its working as designed.
Even at idle you have some amperage headroom and at full output (achieved when the engine is @2k rpm) theres plenty to run a lightbar. Largest ive seen is about 300W (25A) and normal output bars are about 180W (15A) and that is still VERY bright. The beloved KC Daylighters are only 55w and a pair of them will make the night day.
The stock alt puts out about 60A at idle and 130 peak. If needed there are 180A and 270A aftermarket units, but if you have moderate add-ons the stock unit is ok.
That said, the oem batt is Cancer. It vents tons of acid and will corrode your terminal connectors, hold down strap, and the integrated fusiable link on the positive terminal. If that corrodes you can get some funny faults. I carry a spare always as if it goes, there's no easy way to bypass it. You have spare fuses, but not one of those things...
So when you can manage, replace with a sealed or agm batt. Either Grp35 or 24F are stock size. Someone here found there is space for a larger one but i dont remember what it was
 

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MTyler, good call, I had forgot to mention the OEM battery venting issues.Toxic is a good way to describe them, they're crap.
 

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Walmart has the Grp 24F(will drop right in) Platinum AGM made by Odyssey for 149.00 and comes with 5yr free replacement.
 

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Walmart has the Grp 24F(will drop right in) Platinum AGM made by Odyssey for 149.00 and comes with 5yr free replacement.
Really?!? Odyssey makes Wally's agm? Any reference? That would be an Awesome source for agm
 

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Sorry No , I cant confirm that, I should not have repeated second hand info. I did go to walmart to check and could not find a odyssy stamp on it. But it did say it was DISTRIBUTED by Johnston Controls which makes walmarts Everstart MAXX battery's.Not made by. So they are being supplied by a different AGM battery maker. But with 5 yr free replacement its still a good deal.
 
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