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In defense of the original poster on this, Christian Brothers in Fort Collins is probably the highest rated shop in town. I've never gone to them because I fix my cars myself, but I've heard nothing but good things.
 
In defense of the original poster on this, Christian Brothers in Fort Collins is probably the highest rated shop in town. I've never gone to them because I fix my cars myself, but I've heard nothing but good things.
Marcus, I get that they may be a highly rated shop, and they may have done excellent work a thousand times before, but what they're doing here is throwing parts at a problem, not fixing it. Diagnose, order, install and test. Changing a 180 to a 170 stat is something a tech on his first week at the shop would do. Install an OEM stat and retest. If the engine overheats at speed its a clogged radiator or bad water pump, most likely. Pull the rad and test flow rate. If its good and the stat tests good, replace the water pump. Too many shops these days just wanna throw a fistful of the owner's dollars at the problem and pray they solve it. Not a good way to repair a vehicle.
 
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Do you have a link for that sensor/pickup?
The factory gauge is just an idiot light pretending to be a gauge.

Clint
Here it is for ya, Clint.

 
If it’s a water pump, why wasn’t it overheating before they replaced the thermostat?

I appreciate all of the help.
There is mass confusion concerning your problem. First off CB should be castigated for the way they approached your problem. You want from no heat at idle to hot engine with a new T-Stat. CB's solution was to put in a lower temperature T-Stat. El Wrongo.

Are you getting heat at idle?
 
Reading all this makes me wonder if I should get an aftermarket temp gauge. All three of mine have read exactly the same and never move after warmed up. The only time I ever seen any fluctuations is when I had air in the system, it would rise briefly then go back down fairly quick as I picked up speed. That’s the only time I’ve ever seen one rise above the “normal to me range” which is around the 3/8” mark, little under half.
 
Reading all this makes me wonder if I should get an aftermarket temp gauge. All three of mine have read exactly the same and never move after warmed up. The only time I ever seen any fluctuations is when I had air in the system, it would rise briefly then go back down fairly quick as I picked up speed. That’s the only time I’ve ever seen one rise above the “normal to me range” which is around the 3/8” mark, little under half.
I'm glad I added a temp gauge. Knowing the actual coolant temp is comforting. Especially after I realized the oem needle doesn't move between 160°- 210°. Yes that's normal operating temperature range but I prefer to know if I'm on my way to running hot as opposed to finding out after it's already overheating.
I have an Autometer Spek Pro that has adjustable hi temp warning feature. The gauge starts flashing red if the set hi temp is reached.
 
I'm glad I added a temp gauge. Knowing the actual coolant temp is comforting. Especially after I realized the oem needle doesn't move between 160°- 210°. Yes that's normal operating temperature range but I prefer to know if I'm on my way to running hot as opposed to finding out after it's already overheating.
I have an Autometer Spek Pro that has adjustable hi temp warning feature. The gauge starts flashing red if the set hi temp is reached.
That trans temp seems a bit toasty no?
 
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Reading all this makes me wonder if I should get an aftermarket temp gauge. All three of mine have read exactly the same and never move after warmed up. The only time I ever seen any fluctuations is when I had air in the system, it would rise briefly then go back down fairly quick as I picked up speed. That’s the only time I’ve ever seen one rise above the “normal to me range” which is around the 3/8” mark, little under half.
MINIDuty, I'd highly recommend it. Transmission and engine coolant temps as a minimum, as I and several others have already done; I'd like to add engine oil temp as well, but prob wont due to space for the gauge and another PITA project to try to mount a sensor. I'm considering adding a remote dual-filter system for the engine so if I do that, the temp would be easy as pie as most of the dual adapter kits have sensor ports.
When we were running the "trail" at Washington & Jefferson National Park, and I say "trail" cause it was easily as bad as Dyer's Road in Maine, extremely narrow, twisty, rock-strewn and 2MPH forward progress while climbing all the way, all my factory gauges were in normal zones but the AutoMeters were telling me that both engine coolant and transmission fluid temps were "redlining" ( 210 to 215F, I dont prefer to push any harder than that ). Without those gauges, I'd have had no way to know that we ( there were 4 trucks in the group ) were prob pushing harder than we should. We stopped for a 15 - 20 minute break and everyone raised hoods and shut down engines. No idea at what temp the "A/T Overtemp" indicator located in the cluster is programmed to illuminate, but at 215F I never saw it even flicker so I'm guessing probably 240F plus. I know some of the Titans have a trans gauge as OE equipment, why does Nissan feel we don't need one too?
 
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Lol. Just slightly. I put heat to the sensor for the visual and to verify proper functionality prior to removing and drilling a hole into my tranmission pan.

Butterman, super clean job on the fab, looks good, looks OEM. I'm prob overthinking this, but would be curious to know how much discrepancy there is between readings like this straight from the pan and readings from the transmission pressure test port that myself and several others have utilized to mount a sensor and harness.
 
Nice work butterman, I like those gauges but is there an easier way to read temps? I really don’t tow much of anything but a 6x10 and that will be very seldom. I’m more worried about water temps since it sounds like our gauges aren’t worth sh:t.

Plus I do not go off road anymore.. do I really need to worry about temps?
 
Butterman, super clean job on the fab, looks good, looks OEM. I'm prob overthinking this, but would be curious to know how much discrepancy there is between readings like this straight from the pan and readings from the transmission pressure test port that myself and several others have utilized to mount a sensor and harness.
I was curious as well and, after some discussion in another thread, I've been in the "better than not having a trans temp sensor at all" state of mind.
 
Nice work butterman, I like those gauges but is there an easier way to read temps? I really don’t tow much of anything but a 6x10 and that will be very seldom. I’m more worried about water temps since it sounds like our gauges aren’t worth sh:t.

Plus I do not go off road anymore.. do I really need to worry about temps?
@RyanD1966 and others provided me great info back when I was wanting to add coolant temp gauge.
I agree 100% with his line of thinking on the preference to have a dedicated temp gauge that's not dependent on the ECM / ECT sensor for a reading.
I installed my coolant temp sensor using same adapter method as he...but with additional nonsense.

I rarely tow, rarely take my 2wd places meant for 4wd but always have my bed loaded down with work equipment and tools.
It took one overheating incident for me to decide that I HAVE TO KNOW actual coolant temp.
I'm hard on this truck in the South Texas heat too. I think I hit 200k back in Oct 2017 and currently sit at 271k.
 
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