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It doesn't give enough information to say whether it is or isn't. You also don't mention which anti-freeze you have in your vehicle. I'm assuming you have Nissan blue, which is an extended long-life coolant that is good for 150,000 miles that Nissan started using in 2010. If that's the case, I would stick with genuine Nissan blue coolant or Pentosin Pentafrost A3 coolant, which is the exact same thing only without the Nissan packaging. You can get that from Rockauto.com or find it on Ebay. It only comes as a pre-mix.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the reply. Honestly, I'm not sure of what is in it. I'm at just over 100,000 miles, and felt it was time. The shop manual that I have (Hayes) says that it uses ethyl glycol coolant. I'm guessing that may be pre-2010.
If it has the green ethyl stuff, would it hurt to switch to the Nissan blue stuff? I want to use whatever is best, both for protection, and length of life.
 

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I don't trust the "all makes, all models" generic coolant. I agree, get Pentosin Pentofrost (at Napa or AAP for instance) or go to your dealer and get OEM. They are about the same price here locally.

I know they are claimed to be the same but I have both and they are made in different countries. OEM is made in USA and Pentofrost A2 (green) is made in Japan, go figure!
 

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Nissan green and Nissan blue are compatible, but, you just have to remember that any green coolant in the system will lessen the 150,000 mile service spec of the blue coolant. Both blue and green contain ethylene glycol. Both are also a phosphated organic acid technology catagoried as an HOAT in the USA. The main differences (besides color) are the service intervals and that green is concentrated and blue is pre-diluted.
 

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All the coolants are ethylene glycol based. If 50/50 mix, then you're paying for shipment of water.

Here's the real scoop, I'm a chemist, consumer products. Older coolants had silicates or phosphates as additives and were higher pH. As aluminum parts like heads and radiators became more common, and aluminum is not compatible with high pH (Drano crystals are sodium hydroxide and aluminum chips), lower pH coolants were developed using potassium salts of fatty acids, like 2-ethyl hexanoic acid. OAT is organic acid technology, and HOAT is hybrid organic acid technology so those coolants have lower pH to be compatible with aluminum parts.

The Summit stuff states "safe for all makes and models", that is the key that it's fine. And guess what ? The color is 1-cent of dye that's added to trick folks into going to the dealer for stuff. So go to local store and buy coolant that states "safe for all makes and models" and drain and flush your cooling system. Be sure to bleed out all the air when filling.
 
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