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I've tried searching, but am coming up empty on exactly what I'm looking for. I just changed my thermostat and am now having temperature issues. My temp gauge will climb up really high and then drop. I'm assuming that the issue is with air bubbles in the system. I can't locate the bleeder screw. I've looked on the coolant lines and near the intake manifold to no avail. I tried to burp the system by running it with the radiator cap off while adding coolant. That just left me with a big mess in the driveway. If anybody could let me know the location of the bleeder screw (preferably with a pic) on a 2007, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!
 

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I can't help you since I'm new to frontiers myself, but it would help to know which engine you have.

You had the AC set to max heat when you burped the system right? It also helps to squeeze the radiator hoses (mainly the upper one) while burping the system.
 

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Thanks for the reply. Yes, I had the heat all the way up and squeezed the upper hose. I have the 4.0 V6. Thank you!
 

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First off, if you installed an aftermarket t-stat you need to take it out ASAP. For whatever reason aftermarket t-stats don't work in our engines. You have to use an OEM Nissan t-stat.

As far as where the bleeder screw is located, we don't have one. However, you do have a few options for bleeding the system.

1. Get a Lyle spill-free funnel & use it to fill your system (Note: some have said that having the front end higher when filling also helps to push the air out the system). Once the system is filled run the engine up to 2k rpm for about 10 seconds then let idle for a couple of minutes while adding coolant as needed. Also, when running the engine turn the temp on the HVAC system to the hottest setting (Note: fan speed is not important). Just be sure to keep watch on the funnel when you rev the engine so coolant doesn't come out of it & make a mess or burn someone.

2. Overfill the coolant reservoir, run the truck for awhile, let cool down, add coolant as needed till full. Our cooling system is a 'self-bleeding' system, that's why the reservoir has a vent valve installed on it. Once the system heats up & builds pressure it will expel the excess pressure. After running the truck for awhile then letting it cool down, you can slowly open the cap on the reservoir to release the remainder of the excess pressure. Keep doing this step or combination of steps until the coolant system is full. May take several days till the system is completely full.

3. From my experience, & what I've read from others, burping the system with the upper hose doesn't seem to help much. If you firmly squeeze then slowly release the lower hose, that seems to help push the excess air out the system better.

There are quite a few threads on the forum about how to bleed our cooling system. Theres also several you-tube videos that show how to use the Lyle funnel I mentioned earlier. First & foremost though is that if you don't have an OEM t-stat then you NEED to get one. Afterwards, follow these steps or steps that others have posted & you'll be good to go. Good luck!
 

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Thank you! The thermostat was a Duralast from Auto Zone, so that could be the issue. It's also good to know that I'm not going crazy and there isn't a bleeder screw.....well, I'm not crazy because of that at least. Thank you for your help, GB.
 

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My 1st generation Frontiers have bleed screws.

Anyway, here's what I do with my vehicles that don't have such bleeds or traditional radiator caps:
Jack up front of truck on the frame. Take off cap, add coolant/water mix; start engine, let it run with heater on. Add coolant/water as necessary over the next 20 minutes. The replace cap, take off the jack or jack stands.
 

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Thanks, Cusser. That's what I did, minus jacking it up. I parked on an I incline though, which should have been fine. I'm going to try and burp the system again today (cap the radiator BEFORE the coolant volcano this time). If that doesn't work, I'll be ordering a new thermostat.
 

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Update: Third time's a charm. I burped the system again and was able to get some more coolant in there. I ended up capping the radiator BEFORE the coolant volcano erupted this time and SLOWLY opened the resevoir cap after shutting down the engine to relieve some air pressure. So far, so good. Thank you all for your help.
 

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No problem & I'm glad everything worked out for you! If you continue to have temp swing issues then, seriously, take that t-stat out & install an OEM unit.


P.S. Look on NICO.com & they have a section where you can download a free complete FSM (factory service manual) for your model & year. It literally has everything in there you need about your truck including detailed instructions on how to perform various tests/procedures such as bleeding the coolant system. Again, congrats on getting it worked out! :thumbsup:
 

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I'm so glad i read through this post!! We put in a new t-stat. Yet the fan runs so much for what seems to be no reason. Now I know it must be the t-stat. Bled great, all full. Temp staying normal, but fan runing almost all time. New OEM stat on way !!!
 

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Also keep in mind that you read the coolant level on the reservoir with the engine running and cold. It looks full with the engine off, but this is not the correct way to read the level. I think this one thing is what trips many people up.
 

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I don't think that you should get a volcano of coolant with the rad cap off. That use to be a test to see if the head gasket was blown. I was able to run the car with the rad cap off with a good HG.
 

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I'm so glad i read through this post!! We put in a new t-stat. Yet the fan runs so much for what seems to be no reason. Now I know it must be the t-stat. Bled great, all full. Temp staying normal, but fan runing almost all time. New OEM stat on way !!!
If the engine temp is staying solid @ ~195-200F and the ELECTRIC fan is running all the time, then you have a different issue. The electric fan is a helper that comes on when the A/C is switched on and/or if your engine temp gets too hot (and I can confirm that's about 230F it clicks on).

Also the reservoir is part of the entire pressurized system.
 

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Remember to not swap the caps from the radiator and the reservoir tank -- they are different. The pressure cap lives on the reservoir tank, not the radiator.
 

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No problem & I'm glad everything worked out for you! If you continue to have temp swing issues then, seriously, take that t-stat out & install an OEM unit.


P.S. Look on NICO.com & they have a section where you can download a free complete FSM (factory service manual) for your model & year. It literally has everything in there you need about your truck including detailed instructions on how to perform various tests/procedures such as bleeding the coolant system. Again, congrats on getting it worked out! :thumbsup:
I'm open to the idea that Nissan has cornered the market on thermostat technology somehow, but what is the evidence for this? Thermostats remain a fairly low tech piece of equipment as far as I know and I think the aftermarket suppliers can probably reproduce an acceptable replacement. They do so on much more complicated/less tolerant parts.
 

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I'm open to the idea that Nissan has cornered the market on thermostat technology somehow, but what is the evidence for this? Thermostats remain a fairly low tech piece of equipment as far as I know and I think the aftermarket suppliers can probably reproduce an acceptable replacement. They do so on much more complicated/less tolerant parts.
Nissan doesn't MAKE thermostats, someone makes them for Nissan.

I've only replaced one thermostat on a Nissan, co-worker's 2002 Frontier, and it worked fine. That said: if mine needed a thermostat, I'd use Stant.
 

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I'm open to the idea that Nissan has cornered the market on thermostat technology somehow, but what is the evidence for this? Thermostats remain a fairly low tech piece of equipment as far as I know and I think the aftermarket suppliers can probably reproduce an acceptable replacement. They do so on much more complicated/less tolerant parts.
I've had more than one parts store (yes, even Stant) thermostat fail upon installation and I've had more than one friend experience the same. In a pinch, I'll use a Stant, but I prefer to go OEM regardless of the vehicle I am repairing.
 

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As far as I concern. When I replaced T-Stat with after market, I did notice a tiny difference from one pulled out, to one put in... That should have been a clue, but i did it anyway. And the electric fan runs once warm, and does not turn off, even without turning ac on. So something is wrong. And im convinced its the after market T-Stat. It will be replaced with Genuine Nissan asap. !!
 
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