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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just lifted my 2010 4x4 with PRG's Advanced Package with 2.5 Radflos but I need to get up about 2 more inches in the front. I've got coil spacers, but they won't fit with the control arms that are on there now, plus it maxes out the brake lines if i dropped it that low. Anybody making longer/drop lower arms?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the quick replys guys. I've got the Radflos down to where's there's only about 2 threads left at the bottom between the perch and solid part. (the further down the perch, the higher, right?) and I want the 2 extra inches to give it the prerunner type look, it's got too much of a rake right now. I've got Deavers and 2" shackles (daystar leveling kit) in the rear.

Sorry, but what is cv angle?
 

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the more you compress the spring the more lift you get, but the siffer the ride will get too.

Sorry, but what is cv angle?
Your CV-Joint or constant-velocity joint is what transmits power from your front diff to your front tires. When you lift a 4x4 you need to maintain certain angles or things break.
 

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2007 LE 4x4 Crew Cab Long Box
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Thanks for the quick replys guys. I've got the Radflos down to where's there's only about 2 threads left at the bottom between the perch and solid part. (the further down the perch, the higher, right?) and I want the 2 extra inches to give it the prerunner type look, it's got too much of a rake right now.
im thinking you have this backwards. the closer the perch is to the bottom of the shock, then you have less lift. the higher the spring perch is up the threads and away from the bottom of the body, the more lift you obtain.

Here's a pic of where I first had my Radflos set - but then I would up the spring another 1" to give me more lift and to level it off.

 

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the reason why they are asking how much lift the radflos gave you over stock is because if you get yourself above 3" in the front (either by stacking spacers on your rads or otherwise) without doing a diff drop, you'll blow up your cv joints.

take a look (or a pic) of the front axles where they exit the front diff and where they enter the spindle. you want that to be more straight than not to reduce stress on the cv joints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here's a pic of where I first had my Radflos set - but then I would up the spring another 1" to give me more lift and to level it off.

So in the picture, that is the lowest the coil will go? and adjusting up lifts the truck?
I'm going to raise those in the morning and see how it fairs. The cv joints should be fine with just the coil lift, right? Greg (PRG) didn't say there would be a problem with them and def didn't have to drop the dif. If I would have had to do that, I would have gone up 6-8". I'll take a picture of them after i do it tomorrow.
I appreciate it guys, keep the advice coming if you have it.
 

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Your fine as long as you are only going up the 2-3 inches that this kit provides. But you were asking about lifting the truck higher then that and that is when you need to start worrying about angles.
 

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So in the picture, that is the lowest the coil will go? and adjusting up lifts the truck?
I'm going to raise those in the morning and see how it fairs. The cv joints should be fine with just the coil lift, right? Greg (PRG) didn't say there would be a problem with them and def didn't have to drop the dif. If I would have had to do that, I would have gone up 6-8". I'll take a picture of them after i do it tomorrow.
I appreciate it guys, keep the advice coming if you have it.
well, as you can see my coils had about 1/2" of threads before they were bottomed out - but yes, if you crank up the ring below the spring then you get more lift. you should have gotten an adjustment wrench with the coils. it is also MUCH easier to adjust the coils with them out and also by using a spring compressor. but, if that isnt an option, then prepare yourself for some scraped kuckles to get the stance you want. i would crank them up with at least 1.5" of the coil threads showing below the ring
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just got them adjusted and it was harder than hayl. I ended up spraying it with WD40, hanging from my A arm and kicking the spanner, worked out though. Is it a problem if the bump stop on the upper arms are touching the coil buckets? Cause mine currently are.
 

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lol...at rest?
 

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I just got them adjusted and it was harder than hayl. I ended up spraying it with WD40, hanging from my A arm and kicking the spanner, worked out though. Is it a problem if the bump stop on the upper arms are touching the coil buckets? Cause mine currently are.
there should be at least an inch of clearance or it will hit too often. do you have stock UCAs?
 

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I tried to crank mine until the UCA was basically parallel to the ground. So you've got the greatest amount of travel in both directions.
 
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