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I bought a new 2019 SV 4x4 and it has been a headache. On day 1, had a rattle coming from the rear, come to find that there was no nut on the passenger side rear shock bolt (I fixed). The brakes were spongy, took back to the dealer and they bled the brakes. The auto transmission is useless. It upshifts way too soon (35 mph and I'm in overdrive with the torque converter locked, doesn't matter if I'm going uphill) and downshifts way too late, than it has to downshift 3 gears. Now I just keep overdrive off and it helps. And than there's the stereo. Constantly rebooting (50+ times), loosing all my settings, the sound sometimes doesn't work. Been back to the dealer twice and going again in 2 weeks. All on a new truck with 2000 miles on it!
Just wanted to give an update on the truck. After my 3rd visit back to the dealership, Nissan is going to replace my stereo with a new one. I'm told that they acknowledge that there is a problem with the stereos and that the new firmware update may not completely resolve it. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
 

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So in 4 years and almost 80M you bought a battery and tensioner pulleys? Wow, you really got ripped off with a Frontier. Maybe try a Ford or Chevy.. report back in a few months...Seriously, what do you expect to invest in maintenance in ANY vehicle? You could far worse than this truck IMO.
Replacing a tensioner in 80,000 miles isn’t normal.
 

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wit respect for OP issues, I just don't know how common the pulleys thing is - never had that issue on any vehicle even up in to the 150M +.. - .maybe they got a lot of water/off-road exposure? I'm just thinking things wear out and you have to expect to invest in some stuff occasionally. I know can be frustrating when they seem to pile up though. Had new Liberty I put on 176,000 and "0" issues till blew a piston and that was end of that..
 

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I have a 2016 SV CC I bought new. It currently has 76K miles on it and I’ve gotta say I’m a little disappointed in how it’s held up. The OEM battery was done after less than two years, I’ve already had the tensioner pulleys replaced once and it looks like I’m gonna have to do it again, the passengers seat has a bad squeak when nobody’s sitting in it, it idles very rough at stop lights, the auto down on the drivers window no longer works right (only goes down about half way), and now there’s a bad grinding sound coming from the engine when the RPM’s get high in 1st and 2nd gear. And I’ve done every manufacturer recommended maintenance at the 5,000 mile intervals. I think I’m gonna pay it down a little more (trade-in value right now is only about $1,000 more than I owe) and trade it in on something else.
Find someone with a bullydog gt and you can adjust the idle and I don't think you have to actually buy one either. A dealer can adjust the idle too. I found when I did the throttle relearn stuff that my idle dropped to like 600 rpm and it was very rough. I think I added around 175 rpm or so to mine.

My last battery was a deep cycle optima and that lasted 11 years.... I replaced it with the odyssey one that fits. I will also put a desulfating battery charger on my vehicles for a week or so about once a year. Helps that we have 4 vehicles for my wife and I though.
 

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Wish I had read this thread before I traded in my 2012 Tacoma on a 2019 Crew Cab SV. Hope I didn't make a big mistake. Never a problem with the Tacoma with 98k miles.
 

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I now replace battery @every three, 3 1/2 years.

It seems they used to last longer in the 1990's and 2000's. the last one I tried to make last over 4 years (Duralast) left me stuck one night.

Changing it out is easy, not that expensive, and I don't get stranded.
 

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Best I've used last 10 years are Interstate. 4 vehicles/boat. No issues. The way I use them, the deep cycle boat batteries go 4 years very predictably. Car/truck starting batteries 5 years or more. fwiw
 

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Wish I had read this thread before I traded in my 2012 Tacoma on a 2019 Crew Cab SV. Hope I didn't make a big mistake. Never a problem with the Tacoma with 98k miles.
Have you been on Tacoma World forum. The 2nd gen and 3gen have issues. I had a 06 Tacoma till it got totaled in 2009. Had about 50K on it. No major issues, just minor stuff. I now have a 2016Pro 4x with 24K. No real problems so far. I expect it will be as good as the Tacoma was.
 

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I have browsed this thread a few times to glean info, and it appears to me every time someone has a light bulb burn out, or run out of washer fluid, they post it on here to basically ***** about it and get attention. I would be nice if it had stayed relevant to the actual small handful of common problems that do exist, and MIGHT happen.

It sucks, because it gives many the wrong impression and scares new owners. YES there are common problems, but that does not mean it absolutely WILL happen.

I believe the battery "issue" is one of them. As another posted earlier, you used to get a LONG time out of one, not just 2 or 3 years and throw it away. I do not like the voltage regulator in these (my) truck. IMO, Nissan is trying to squeeze 2/10 of a MPG out of the charging system to appease the government Gods, at the expense of the battery lifespan. Between that and the parasitic drain when off, it adds up to accelerated battery deterioration.

To that end, I have a $30 experiment going with my new (1 yo) battery. I bought a Schumacher trickle/float charger, and keep it plugged in, especially if I don't plan on using my truck for a day or two. Say what you will, but time will tell.
 

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I have browsed this thread a few times to glean info, and it appears to me every time someone has a light bulb burn out, or run out of washer fluid, they post it on here to basically * about it and get attention. I would be nice if it had stayed relevant to the actual small handful of common problems that do exist, and MIGHT happen.

It sucks, because it gives many the wrong impression and scares new owners. YES there are common problems, but that does not mean it absolutely WILL happen.

I believe the battery "issue" is one of them. As another posted earlier, you used to get a LONG time out of one, not just 2 or 3 years and throw it away. I do not like the voltage regulator in these (my) truck. IMO, Nissan is trying to squeeze 2/10 of a MPG out of the charging system to appease the government Gods, at the expense of the battery lifespan. Between that and the parasitic drain when off, it adds up to accelerated battery deterioration.

To that end, I have a $30 experiment going with my new (1 yo) battery. I bought a Schumacher trickle/float charger, and keep it plugged in, especially if I don't plan on using my truck for a day or two. Say what you will, but time will tell.
You can kill off the smart charge system - you simply remove one wire - then the alternator works like an old fashion one.

I think batteries these days are simply crap is the issue however. There trying to sell a car battery at retail for 100 bucks - which is less than a battery was 25 years ago. Something gotta give.
 

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You can kill off the smart charge system - you simply remove one wire - then the alternator works like an old fashion one.

I think batteries these days are simply crap is the issue however. There trying to sell a car battery at retail for 100 bucks - which is less than a battery was 25 years ago. Something gotta give.
Yeah... I read that somewhere, can't remember right at the moment. I might look into that again at some point but I would need to research it some more. It may well be the alloy of lead, who knows what they use. It would not surprise me to find that it has something to do with government regulations.
 

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Wow, not sure what kind of batt you bought 25 years ago, but I never ever paid that much.Its not that we have bad batteries its that todays vehicles have such a huge electrical load these days, even when the cars shut off its still sucking juice out of the batt.
 

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Wow, not sure what kind of batt you bought 25 years ago, but I never ever paid that much.Its not that we have bad batteries its that todays vehicles have such a huge electrical load these days, even when the cars shut off its still sucking juice out of the batt.
I would very respectfully disagree. The high load is on the alternator, not the battery. When running you can take your battery out and truck runs fine.

As for when not running - within about 15 minutes of shutting off everything on the fronty goes to sleep (ECM, BCM, etc). I have done a parasitic drain test and after everything is asleep its pulling about 10mA - which is about the typical draw on a AAA battery. If your pulling more at rest its something aftermarket or something broken.
 

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When running you can take your battery out and truck runs fine.
I sure wouldn't disconnect the battery while the engine was running on an alternator-equipped vehicle.

Gomer and Goober did that "test" on old generator-equipped vehicles, but they didn't know how to use a DC voltmeter.

I know you don't believe ME, so look that up on Google before you make the mistake of trying to defend yourself.
 

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Its an old school test for sure but it still works on alternator powered vehicles to see if the alt is bad. Its an easy dirty way to check
 

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I sure wouldn't disconnect the battery while the engine was running on an alternator-equipped vehicle.

Gomer and Goober did that "test" on old generator-equipped vehicles, but they didn't know how to use a DC voltmeter.

I know you don't believe ME, so look that up on Google before you make the mistake of trying to defend yourself.
I should have said in theory you "could" remove the battery and the truck would run fine - in reference to someone saying the heavy current draw in modern vehicles is killing your battery - which is technically incorrect.

And Yes, I understand what your saying - if you pull the battery you loose your sink, and you "could" get a surge in current and fry something. This of course assumes your grounds are not properly terminated and your fusible link doesn't work. I have done it. Maybe not smart for a variety of reasons. Far from the dumbest thing I ever did though I think :)
 

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a video of an alternator powered car running with the battery cables not hooked up? just pop the hood and star the truck and unhook one, its not going to die (well, unless your alternator is bad)
 

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Do NOT remove battery cables and run the engine on a computer-controlled vehicle, please! A voltage surge could fry electronics in one or more of the computers and as far as the fusible link, it would not open fast enough to prevent the surge from doing damage. This is not the 1950's, anymore, folks!
 
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