I've been doing some reading and see this problem is kind of common.I have 07 frontier 6cyl auto. When I go up to my ski cabin the next day it turns over quite well but won't start. It s like its not getting gas .But the wierd part is as soon as I jump it it starts instantly , I have changed battery twice. It's NOT battery. It's like when it's cold I think a sensor isn't working or ecm isn't working..but why a jump help makes no sense. Also i was up recently it wasn't cold but had same problem. Could it be altitude ,up 5800 feet ? I did read maybey ecm relay. I bought one but having problem finding where it is. I think it's on bottom end of Ecm Do Ihave to take out ect to get to it Here's a picture
Cold starts
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
I live in Colorado. Have been living in Breckenridge at 9600 ft for last 8 years. Just bought a house in Kremmling Colorado 7300ft elevation. My truck is always outside, wife's car goes in the garage. Routinely start my truck at 2 am in winter to go plow. Average temp at night is bitter, like -5*f before wind chill. Never had an issue.
However, I run a big battery. 850 cold crank amps. Maybe try thinner oil and higher cold cranking amp battery. Takes more to turn cold thick oil and batteries drain quickly in the cold
However, I run a big battery. 850 cold crank amps. Maybe try thinner oil and higher cold cranking amp battery. Takes more to turn cold thick oil and batteries drain quickly in the cold
Did you go lighter weight? It is recommended for winter. I highly doubt your ecm relay is bad. No need to replace it if it isn't broke. Can I ask what battery you bought? Just out of curiosity.
But I will pull up my service manual and see if I can help you with relay. I work nights and don't have a lot happening until it finally snows here in the mountains
But I will pull up my service manual and see if I can help you with relay. I work nights and don't have a lot happening until it finally snows here in the mountains
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
First you need to know what your battery voltage is, the voltage the alternator is producing, and the cranking amps of the battery. I friend of mine had a battery with the 12.6 volts and the car still would not start. The cold cranking amps was half of what it should have been. The battery had bad cell/cells. Go to your local advance auto parts with usually test the battery and alternator for free. Just because the battery is new doesn't mean it is not your battery.
Joined
·
10 Posts
I had this same problem with my 2008 Xterra. Finally stopped being able to jump it; tried to troubleshoot everything I could think of. Even starting fluid, WHILE jumped...had it towed to a dealer and they replaced the ECM. Never had a problem after that. The problem only gets more frequent until it fails completely.
Joined
·
10 Posts
If the relay is cheap try that 1st for sure. I had an extended warranty and only paid $100. Total bill with new battery came to just under $1,600 if I recall correctly. Was never more happy to have a warranty.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My gauges don't flutter. I'm thinking it is something voltage related. Yesterday it was 0F and no matter how long I cranked or how many times I cranked, the engine wouldn't fire. Then I hooked up a battery charger, and after 15 minutes it fired right up. This morning it was 15F, the truck sat and cold soaked for 9.5 hours over night, and it start right away.
I read that the fuel pumps won't work unless the voltage is over 10V during cranking, so maybe charging the battery just helped give it that little extra boost. In the past when I had cranking with no start (anywhere from 10 to 35F), I could crank a few times, let it sit for a minute, then it would start up. Maybe this primed enough fuel before the voltage would drop below 10, then it would get spark and the engine/alternator would make up the voltage difference to keep the fuel pump going.
I have a 900 CCA battery charged up and waiting in the back seat, so next time it happens I'll throw that on and see if it starts.
I read that the fuel pumps won't work unless the voltage is over 10V during cranking, so maybe charging the battery just helped give it that little extra boost. In the past when I had cranking with no start (anywhere from 10 to 35F), I could crank a few times, let it sit for a minute, then it would start up. Maybe this primed enough fuel before the voltage would drop below 10, then it would get spark and the engine/alternator would make up the voltage difference to keep the fuel pump going.
I have a 900 CCA battery charged up and waiting in the back seat, so next time it happens I'll throw that on and see if it starts.
Spike, try turning the key on without cranking the starter. Cycle that a couple times and maybe you'll be able to build some fuel pressure before you actually turn over the engine.
Joined
·
6,482 Posts
Perhaps hooking a battery tender on overnight might assist?
I haven't noticed any difference in brightness, but I've only had this problem in the morning when it's light out so it's hard to tell. The battery is less than two years old, but it's probably worth getting it tested. Next time it happens I should be able to do some more diagnostics. I've also heard of people heating the IPDM and ECU with a hair dryer or heat gun to test if those are bad, but because my truck is a 2012, I think it has all the updated relays in the IPDM that were causing issues with early models.
I have changed out battery twice I am going to check voltage at night then in morning to see if there's a drain. Like jtd said its like there something about not enough voltage for fuel pump Yes I have done the ignition on few times then crank. No luck. Fawking driving me nuts.
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!