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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
First my Tpms light was flashing. It would flash then solid then sometimes go off. Not sure if it is related or not. But I started my truck and the Tpms light, slip light, abs, and check engine were on. I shut the truck off and restarted and they were all off except the check engine light. Code came up U0101 lost connection with TCM. Sounds like a ground issue to me.

I have an appointment with the dealer for the Tpms already but now seems bigger than just that. Appointment isn't until next week though. Truck drove fine. Wondering if I should reset it or leave it until I go to the dealer next Saturday. Anyone else ever have this problem. I searched and found only one thread mention this code. I am a bit nervous because I have a few longer drives coming up and will have the kids in truck with me.

So far in 1000 miles of driving this truck I already had more issues than my $11k brand new Versa I bought. That went 205+k miles with only an engine light on when I didn't tighten the gas cap all the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just got a chance to look under the hood. Looking for loose cables and or chewed wires. Didn't find that. The battery looks brand new until I pulled up the black cover. White powder corrosion and rust all over.

Now the backyard mechanic in me wants to take the battery out and wire brush it all clean. Then apply some dielectric grease, reset the computer and see what happens. But since under warranty and I am not positive this is the issue just let the dealer figure it all out.

My bumper to bumper warranty runs out 4 days after my appointment.
 

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Just got a chance to look under the hood. Looking for loose cables and or chewed wires. Didn't find that. The battery looks brand new until I pulled up the black cover. White powder corrosion and rust all over.

Now the backyard mechanic in me wants to take the battery out and wire brush it all clean. Then apply some dielectric grease, reset the computer and see what happens. But since under warranty and I am not positive this is the issue just let the dealer figure it all out.

My bumper to bumper warranty runs out 4 days after my appointment.
You might have a case with Nissan if you made the appointment before the warranty expires. It would show the issue/concern was identified before the warranty expired.
 

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If you are in your 3-year/36000 mile warranty, I would leave everything alone. It could be caused by the corrosion on the battery, but that should be covered in your warranty, as well. If you start messing with things, you might make it harder for the tech to diagnose. If you were out of warranty, then my suggestion would be to clean the battery connections and make sure they are tight, have the codes cleared and then see what happens. Battery connection issues are fairly common on these vehicles and can create a multitude of problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you are in your 3-year/36000 mile warranty, I would leave everything alone. It could be caused by the corrosion on the battery, but that should be covered in your warranty, as well. If you start messing with things, you might make it harder for the tech to diagnose. If you were out of warranty, then my suggestion would be to clean the battery connections and maoke sure they are tight, have the codes cleared and then see what happens. Battery connection issues are fairly common on these vehicles and can create a multitude of problems.
This is what I want to do but I have alot of driving ahead of me this week. Just don't want to be stranded with the kids. Also the vehicle does have a remote starter installed. Not sure if that will come into play at the dealership with the warranty.

Maybe I will get a sooner appointment and miss work.
 

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Good thing you are still under warranty because replacing the ECU is over $3000. Read the thread in my signature for more info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good thing you are still under warranty because replacing the ECU is over $3000. Read the thread in my signature for more info.
Your thread is saying it won't be covered under warranty?!? You think I should clean them or wait until next Saturday for my appointment? Am I already too late? Did you get a code? Truck drives fine. At the moment.
 

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Your thread is saying it won't be covered under warranty?!? You think I should clean them or wait until next Saturday for my appointment? Am I already too late? Did you get a code? Truck drives fine. At the moment.
There was a service bulletin stating it would not be covered under warranty if you never brought it to the dealer for service. Part of the regular service is to clean the battery terminals.

My Frontier was a 2010 SE. When my ECU fried, the truck was driving fine right up until the accelerator stopped working and stranded me. As you can see from the pictures, my positive terminal was super corroded due to the vent on the stock battery. It threw a bunch of codes but I don't know what they were.

If I read between the lines it sounds like you recently bought this truck used, is that correct? Was it from a Nissan dealer? I would get it to the service dept as soon as you can.

If you cant get there until next sat, I would clean the terminal so you do not risk further damage. If you have the stock battery, I'd also suggest replacing it soon with an AGM style battery that does not have vents right below the terminals. Read the manual for the correct order of removing the terminals from the battery and reinstalling them. The electronics can be damaged if you do not do it a certain way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I bought it used from a non Nissan dealer. It had 19k miles on it and I have the Nissan paper saying all oil changes were done up until 14k miles. The previous owner had the 24 month maintenance plan from Nissan. No mention of battery cleaning. My terminal looks nothing like yours but it does not look right.

I am extremely nervous now. I guess I can call the dealer in morning and see if they can fit me in. I hate to miss work but I don't want a huge repair bill or a broken truck. If it is not broke already.
 

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I bought it used from a non Nissan dealer. It had 19k miles on it and I have the Nissan paper saying all oil changes were done up until 14k miles. The previous owner had the 24 month maintenance plan from Nissan. No mention of battery cleaning. My terminal looks nothing like yours but it does not look right.

I am extremely nervous now. I guess I can call the dealer in morning and see if they can fit me in. I hate to miss work but I don't want a huge repair bill or a broken truck. If it is not broke already.
The manual does not list the battery terminal cleaning as part of the service guide but the Nissan service technicians are instructed to check the terminals and clean them if needed.

Call the service dept and see if you can bring it in. Most dealerships have a shuttle that could take you to work and may even come back later and pick you up. Since you have only had the truck for a short time, they should handle this for you. If needed, ask the service mgr for a few minutes and introduce yourself and explain the situation. My service mgr wanted to make it right and hopefully so will yours.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I emailed the Nissan dealer about bringing it in earlier and said the issue has turned from TPMS to Check engine light. Inquired about shuttle service too. If I don't get email back by this afternoon or a call I will call them.

Through a google search several people have gotten this code with remote starters installed. It may be related but I am still not positive. Or this could be the battery terminal, or something else entirely.
 

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I emailed the Nissan dealer about bringing it in earlier and said the issue has turned from TPMS to Check engine light. Inquired about shuttle service too. If I don't get email back by this afternoon or a call I will call them.

Through a google search several people have gotten this code with remote starters installed. It may be related but I am still not positive. Or this could be the battery terminal, or something else entirely.
I have no experience with remote starters but it sounds like that could be the problem. I bet that is a nice thing to have in the cold climate where you live so hopefully you can resolve this without being forced to remove that.

Glad to hear you are taking it to the Nissan dealer. Hopefully they are a reputable shop that is willing to work with you to get a resolution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
dealer called me back. They do NOT suggest I bring it in on Saturday. They said they do not have a full staff to handle situations. They can shuttle me to my house but not my job. There is a closer dealer that could shuttle me to work but they do not have good reviews and lady at my job uses them and hates them. So I may need to drop it off and get shuttled to home and use the misses vehicle to get to work. If she doesn't work tonight (nurse 7pm -7am), this is probably what i will do.

I too hope I don't have to remove the remote start. I don't use it that often. Actually half the times I have used it so far was just testing it out.

Edit: So I will be dropping it off tonight. They can keep it all day tomorrow to look into it. I am now more and more thinking this may be the installation of the remote start. The dealer I bought the truck from didn't even know it had remote start and I was excited for it when I found out it had it. But if this is the issue it is definitely more trouble than it's worth to me.

Another reason I am not so sure it's the battery corrosion because I spent the morning looking at nissan issues with the batter corrosion and check engine lights. Mine looks nowhere near as bad as any of the pics I am seeing. Some people the positive terminal was almost non-existent . Just blue powder substance left in it's place.
 

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glad you're getting it taken care of. Have you looked at How the remote starter was installed? there are 2 different styles, one that is a few modules that plug into the factory harness and one that splices into the harness, mostly at the OBD connector. If the wiring is neat, tied&taped and soldered there's no reason to suspect its the starter. If they did a hack job or got a cheap ($50) unit then anything's possible.
If the dealer does say its the starter, I've been on the fence on getting a starter/alarm for the past yr+ If my OEM remote fob worked worth a damn I wouldn't bother.
It's really not cold enough in southern/central NewEngland to justify it. When I was in ND, sure... it was -30 or worse during the winter... Northern ME/NH/VT... ok, it gets cold enough that starting it as you head out the door is worthwhile... but letting the engine idle for more than a minute or so is a waste of fuel and serves no significant purpose. The engine warms faster driving it (1800-2500rpm) than sitting at idle (1200) and the rest of the fluids don't warm at all (AT won't start warming from the radiator till the engine is hot).
Idling for long enough to warm the engine/heater core causes the cylinders to get washed with gas (which thins your oil). The ecm keeps the engine running smooth no matter what temp the air or engine is at.
If you are concerned with having a cold engine in the morning you are MUCH better served with a plug-in block heater (and the Frozen Chosen frost-dwellers know the benefits/need of them)

--(someone take this soapbox from me already...)--
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
glad you're getting it taken care of. Have you looked at How the remote starter was installed? there are 2 different styles, one that is a few modules that plug into the factory harness and one that splices into the harness, mostly at the OBD connector. If the wiring is neat, tied&taped and soldered there's no reason to suspect its the starter. If they did a hack job or got a cheap ($50) unit then anything's possible.
If the dealer does say its the starter, I've been on the fence on getting a starter/alarm for the past yr+ If my OEM remote fob worked worth a damn I wouldn't bother.
It's really not cold enough in southern/central NewEngland to justify it. When I was in ND, sure... it was -30 or worse during the winter... Northern ME/NH/VT... ok, it gets cold enough that starting it as you head out the door is worthwhile... but letting the engine idle for more than a minute or so is a waste of fuel and serves no significant purpose. The engine warms faster driving it (1800-2500rpm) than sitting at idle (1200) and the rest of the fluids don't warm at all (AT won't start warming from the radiator till the engine is hot).
Idling for long enough to warm the engine/heater core causes the cylinders to get washed with gas (which thins your oil). The ecm keeps the engine running smooth no matter what temp the air or engine is at.
If you are concerned with having a cold engine in the morning you are MUCH better served with a plug-in block heater (and the Frozen Chosen frost-dwellers know the benefits/need of them)

--(someone take this soapbox from me already...)--
The remote start is a compustar with 2 way. So it's not a really cheap unit. The wires are spliced in as I can not see any connectors. Actually looking at the wiring under the dash I can not see anything that doesn't look OEM. It appears to be a very neat and clean installation. I see shrink wrap everywhere but can not tell what was oem and what was for the remote start. Even great installations something can be missed. I did not install the remote start. It was on the truck when I bought it and even the dealer I bought it from did not know it was on it. Only way I could tell was a small sensor mounted to the windshield behind the rear view mirror and they gave me a compustar remote as well as an oem remote when I picked up the truck.

I do not use the remote start all that much. I park in my garage and the car is always about 50 degrees in the morning. When I leave work I just use the key to start it even though some days it is like 10 degrees out. Only time I have used it is when I have the family with me and we leave somewhere late. I will remote start it as we walk to the vehicle. I have a 4 month old and a 3 year old. So just trying to take the chill out of the truck as I load them and whatever luggage we have. Which is usually a ton with kids.

I am sort of an mpg nut. So trust me I don't like wasting fuel. You can't tell by by fuelly but that is only a few tanks as I got to learn the truck. It will be going up for sure. ::grin::

If this does end up being blamed on the remote start I already have a guy that will be going through the installation to correct any mistakes or to just rip it out if that is what needs to happen. This all could still be my corroded battery terminal or just a weak battery for all I know. We will find out today.
 

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... compustar with 2 way... ... spliced in as I can not see any connectors... can not see anything that doesn't look OEM...
Awesome!

If this does end up being blamed on the remote start I already have a guy that will be going through the installation to correct any mistakes or to just rip it out if that is what needs to happen. This all could still be my corroded battery terminal or just a weak battery for all I know. We will find out today.
This could be considered as a test for your dealer... 2 nearest dealers to me: one I bought my truck from claimed they didn't even see the issue I was pointing out to them, and if it were an issue it MUST be that way as it came from the factory that way (bedrail cap loose, taillight missing bolt, missing antenna...) Other dealer saw all my issues and several others (stereo lost memory every time the truck was shut off, other stuff I forget now). When I mentioned my hopes&dreams the service manager & mechanic got excited and one of them told me about CF... mentioned titan swaps & atlas cases... I knew I had a trusted shop.. the first dealer... I'll never give them a dime, even to buy a car.

So hopefully they identify the issue and don't try to blame a red herring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I need a dealer like that second one. I do hope this dealer is halfway decent. I own the frontier and we have a rogue. Be nice to be able to use the local dealer for service and parts. So far the guy I been communicating with has been great about dropping the vehicle off. But the real test is when they start actually looking into the vehicle.

Maybe they will say it's the battery and terminal and I get all new :D. I doubt it. Guess we will see. Still no contact from dealer yet today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Dealer contacted me about 11am to tell me my battery had failed the tests. Also told me my tire pressure was low as they were checking the truck over. They were still looking into other things and would contact me if anything else came up. Around 2:30pm they called to tell me I am all set and the truck is ready to be picked up. They said there was a bad cell in the battery.

So hopefully this story comes to an end!
 
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