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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting code p1336 on my 02 Nissan Frontier 3.3. My truck was fine with no codes and I decided to do a cooling system flush and code p1336 popped on. I don't know if the flush caused it, but the truck runs fine with no symptoms. When I search the code it says it's the crankshaft position sensor. If my crankshaft position sensor was bad would I have any symptoms, what else could cause this code?
 

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The crank position sensor is mounted at the top/driver's side of the transmission bellhouse and is only used for monitoring by the ECM, meaning it will not create an engine performance or drivability issue. It can be caused by a chipped or broken flexplate or flywheel ring gear, a bad crank position sensor or due to an open, short or high resistance in the harness or connectors. I don't see where flushing your coolant would have caused this. First thing I would do is clean-up the two, EGI ground points by removing the 10MM head bolts and cleaning up the eyelets and intake plenum contact area with a small wire brush, Scotch pad, steel wool or light sandpaper. Re-assemble. Check your battery cable connections to make sure they are clean and tight. Erase the stored codes and see if the code returns. If it doesn't, problem solved. If it does, then you'll have to do a little more diagnostic work or take a gamble that it's the sensor, itself, and replace it (it's a bit of a pain to get to, especially if you have four wheel drive). Diagnostic information for that code is listed in the Engine Control chapter of the factory service manual, which you can find in the "knowledge base" section @ NissanHelp.com.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The crank position sensor is mounted at the top/driver's side of the transmission bellhouse and is only used for monitoring by the ECM, meaning it will not create an engine performance or drivability issue. It can be caused by a chipped or broken flexplate or flywheel ring gear, a bad crank position sensor or due to an open, short or high resistance in the harness or connectors. I don't see where flushing your coolant would have caused this. First thing I would do is clean-up the two, EGI ground points by removing the 10MM head bolts and cleaning up the eyelets and intake plenum contact area with a small wire brush, Scotch pad, steel wool or light sandpaper. Re-assemble. Check your battery cable connections to make sure they are clean and tight. Erase the stored codes and see if the code returns. If it doesn't, problem solved. If it does, then you'll have to do a little more diagnostic work or take a gamble that it's the sensor, itself, and replace it (it's a bit of a pain to get to, especially if you have four wheel drive). Diagnostic information for that code is listed in the Engine Control chapter of the factory service manual, which you can find in the "knowledge base" section @ NissanHelp.com.
Thanks for the info. Sorry if this is a stupid question but where are the two egi ground points, eyelets and intake plenum contact area? Is that the bracket that the sensor is mounted to? I see how to remove the sensor by watching this video here https://youtu.be/cObLduaH-L0, but I'm not sure what I'm supposed to be cleaning.
 

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If you look at the top, center of the VG33E engine, where the upper intake plenum and lower intake manifold meet, you will see two, 10mm head bolts, each securing several, black wires. These are all ground wires and these are the EGI ground locations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you look at the top, center of the VG33E engine, where the upper intake plenum and lower intake manifold meet, you will see two, 10mm head bolts, each securing several, black wires. These are all ground wires and these are the EGI ground locations.
I only see one 10mm bolt holding black wires, is it the bolt in the picture? About a month ago I changed all the plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor could that of cause this code? I'm also getting code p0300. The truck has no symptoms runs great.
 

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I only see one 10mm bolt holding black wires, is it the bolt in the picture? About a month ago I changed all the plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor could that of cause this code? I'm also getting code p0300. The truck has no symptoms runs great.
Those 3 bolts in a row that hold the clamps should also hold ground wire eyes
 

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That's the grounds. If you look, you'll see another bolt hole just behind it; many VG33E's will have a bolt and ground wires there, as well, but that may not be on all vehicles. Changing the ignition parts shouldn't have triggered the code. You "could" have a bad crank position sensor as they do fail every now and then. You could ohm test it, but, personally, if you are going to go through all the work to test it, you might as well replace it because it is such a pain to get to!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That's the grounds. If you look, you'll see another bolt hole just behind it; many VG33E's will have a bolt and ground wires there, as well, but that may not be on all vehicles. Changing the ignition parts shouldn't have triggered the code. You "could" have a bad crank position sensor as they do fail every now and then. You could ohm test it, but, personally, if you are going to go through all the work to test it, you might as well replace it because it is such a pain to get to!
Ok so just take the 10mm bolt out clean the ground wires, and the mounting point on the intake manifold? One more question before this code popped on I also put a bottle of Lucas high mileage fuel cleaner in the gas could that of triggered the code?
 

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Smj:

I always thought a bad crank sensor would cause a no start, is that not true here?
On a VQ or a QR engine, a bad crank sensor can cause a no start, but the crank sensor mounted on the transmission bellhousing on a VG33E engine is only a monitoring sensor for the ECM to reference. It can't cause a no start condition or any other drivability concern if it fails.
 

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Ok so just take the 10mm bolt out clean the ground wires, and the mounting point on the intake manifold? One more question before this code popped on I also put a bottle of Lucas high mileage fuel cleaner in the gas could that of triggered the code?
Yes, just unbolt and clean up the contact areas and reinstall the bolt; it may or may not fix the problem, but it can cause such issues and it's a cheap and easy repair if it works. I doubt the fuel cleaner caused the code. Nissan generally advises against using fuel cleaners and additives because of the alcohol content the many of them contain and their potential affect on the oxygen sensors, however I've never ran into any problems because of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I reset the code drove ten miles and the check engine light came back. But now it's only showing code p0300, it's not showing p1336 anymore. Any ideas?
 

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P0300 is a pretty general code indicating a random misfire, which could be one or multiple cylinders. I believe you already said you addressed the basic things, like plugs, wires, etc. I have seen some distributors cause this and the previous crank position sensor code when they start to go bad. You may want to check for play in the distributor shaft or signs of internal oil leaks or metal shavings. VG33 engines have been known to get dirty fuel injectors, which Nissan recommends cleaning using a professional fuel injection system cleaner like those made by 3M and BG Products, which runs the engine from a metal container that contains a solvent and is pressurized by air. Of course, check for vacuum leaks if you haven't already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
P0300 is a pretty general code indicating a random misfire, which could be one or multiple cylinders. I believe you already said you addressed the basic things, like plugs, wires, etc. I have seen some distributors cause this and the previous crank position sensor code when they start to go bad. You may want to check for play in the distributor shaft or signs of internal oil leaks or metal shavings. VG33 engines have been known to get dirty fuel injectors, which Nissan recommends cleaning using a professional fuel injection system cleaner like those made by 3M and BG Products, which runs the engine from a metal container that contains a solvent and is pressurized by air. Of course, check for vacuum leaks if you haven't already.
Well I cleaned the grounds reset the light and the code came back. So I decided to take the CPS out. The end of the sensor looks damaged, please have a look. Could the damage on the end be causing the p1336 code I'm getting?
 

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It could and I would replace it. Any idea how it got damaged? Only time I ever see them get damaged is when someone R&R's the transmission without removing the crank sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It could and I would replace it. Any idea how it got damaged? Only time I ever see them get damaged is when someone R&R's the transmission without removing the crank sensor.
I had the rear main seal and the oil pan replaced almost a year ago, so i know the transmission was removed for the repairs. I think the guy who did the work for me didn't remove the sensor when he dropped the transmission. I noticed the connector for the CPS is not the correct one, when I removed the CPS it slid right out of the connector it wasn't locked in. After seeing the CPS someone grinded off the grooves on the sides and the top to make it fit the connector snug. After looking around for a while I can see someone made a repair to this wire. My guess is the guy forgot to remove the sensor when dropping the tranny and destroyed the wire, then made a repair with some connector he had laying around the shop and grinded the sides and top off the sensor to fit the connector.

If the tranny was removed with the sensor still connected would that cause the dents on the end of the sensor?
How can I test the rigged connector to tell if it is working properly?
 

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It's likely where your problem is! I would get a new crank position sensor and the correct harness connector. Try WiringSpecialties.com as they have a lot of Nissan repair connectors and may have what you need. If not, you'll have to get one from a salvage yard or see if a Nissan parts dept. will sell you a new connector with the pins and weather seals out of their Kent-Moore electrical repair kit.
The dents would be caused by the end of the sensor hitting the flywheel or flexplate while trying to remove or install the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It's likely where your problem is! I would get a new crank position sensor and the correct harness connector. Try WiringSpecialties.com as they have a lot of Nissan repair connectors and may have what you need. If not, you'll have to get one from a salvage yard or see if a Nissan parts dept. will sell you a new connector with the pins and weather seals out of their Kent-Moore electrical repair kit.
The dents would be caused by the end of the sensor hitting the flywheel or flexplate while trying to remove or install the transmission.
In order to change the wire does the upper intake manifold need to be removed?
 

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That's going to be the hard part: trying to repair it with the transmission in the way. Two-wheel drive has considerably more the four-wheel drive. Just replacing the crank sensor is hard enough with everything in place. If you don't have access to a vehicle hoist, then removing the upper plenum and trying to get it from the top may be an option. Make sure you give a big "thank you" to the guy that R&R'd your trans and created all this grief for you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
That's going to be the hard part: trying to repair it with the transmission in the way. Two-wheel drive has considerably more the four-wheel drive. Just replacing the crank sensor is hard enough with everything in place. If you don't have access to a vehicle hoist, then removing the upper plenum and trying to get it from the top may be an option. Make sure you give a big "thank you" to the guy that R&R'd your trans and created all this grief for you!
I decided to buy an aftermarket sensor and grind the sides off to fit the rigged connector, so far good no light. ill never go back to that place again for any work. Thanks for all your help.
 
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