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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi there,

I realize that there are some threads on this already - the question i have is - Nissan I believe outsources their flywheel ans clutches no? if this is the case - who makes them, is it the Luk DMF 098 Flywheel and Exedy clutch? that is partly what i gathered from my research but nothing definite.

I need to do mine - for the 2nd time with 170k miles on the truck (120 out of the first and 50 on the 2nd) Nissan up here wants $3700 CAN to replace it!!! outrageous - they want 1800 just for the flywheel!!!. i thought it was luk that made it all but now i am second guessing with the insane price difference.

any help would be much appreciated

thanks
 

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If I was a betting man, I would say it is probably Valeo from the factory. Valeo and Exedy has made the factory clutches in Nissans in the past, but I'm not sure if they switched brands when they went to the dual-mass type? I would think that both parts would come from the same manufacturer, however. Luk is a good brand and is usually OEM in many European brands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick reply - I believe last time they (a local transmission shop) put the matching Luk set (clutch-kit and flywheel) in and i wasn't real happy with the life out of them... there is no issues with mis-matching brands is there? I just cant give the stealership 3k for parts.. on principle more than anything...
 

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Thanks for the quick reply - I believe last time they (a local transmission shop) put the matching Luk set (clutch-kit and flywheel) in and i wasn't real happy with the life out of them... there is no issues with mis-matching brands is there? I just cant give the stealership 3k for parts.. on principle more than anything...
Since they are all direct-replacement parts, there shouldn't be any issue using a Luk D-M flywheel with another brands clutch disc/pressure plate assembly.
 

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your flywheel is still probably fine. Heard good things about the life of center force clutches. Might be worth the $900 if you don't have to change it again in 50K
 

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SMJ, what's your take on DM vs non-DM flywheels? Do DM contribute to a longer clutch life? I recall reading DM are good for reducing NVH (noise/vibration/harshness). As much as I like our VQ40 engines, they are not what I'd consider an ultra-smooth engine. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
your flywheel is still probably fine. Heard good things about the life of center force clutches. Might be worth the $900 if you don't have to change it again in 50K
I was thinking the same thing. I will wait to see what the mechanic says once he has it opened up, I have ordered an exedy clutch kit and another Luk flywheel off rock auto. hopefully a bit better lie out of the exedy clutch.
thanks for the advice
 

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I just did my clutch 2 weeks ago and paid $US 1603+ sales tax. This works out to $CAD 2000. You are getting hosed by the dealer because the OEM DMF cost $US550 in the States.

I elected to buy the Luk from Rock Auto for $US243.

So far so good.
 

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SMJ, what's your take on DM vs non-DM flywheels? Do DM contribute to a longer clutch life? I recall reading DM are good for reducing NVH (noise/vibration/harshness). As much as I like our VQ40 engines, they are not what I'd consider an ultra-smooth engine. Thoughts?
I've never owned a vehicle with a DM flywheel. I have heard from quite a few Frontier owners that have experienced what I would consider a short clutch life, but I have no idea of how their driving skills are or how the vehicle was used. The main reason for Nissan going to DM flywheels is as already stated: better reduction in NVH. Having spent time as a tractor-trailer driver, I've had my fill of shifting and everything I own has an auto tranny in it (that and the fact that if I have to let someone else use my vehicle, most of them don't know how to drive a clutch, anyway).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So, received my parts today from rockauto (great service as usual - they arrived in under a week with no extra duty or import costs). I have a question however before i get these put in.
I drove another manual car yesterday and i came to realize how high on my clutch pedal throw my clutch actually engages/disengages. I played around - and payed more attention- with it driving and it seems like it will disengage with in the top inch or so of the throw (ie i only need to push the pedal down an inch-ish to shift gears). is there a chance that the clutch it not fully engaging at full pressure when the pedal is all the way out / causing slipping? and can i adjust anything to make sure?

thanks!
 

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So, received my parts today from rockauto (great service as usual - they arrived in under a week with no extra duty or import costs). I have a question however before i get these put in.
I drove another manual car yesterday and i came to realize how high on my clutch pedal throw my clutch actually engages/disengages. I played around - and payed more attention- with it driving and it seems like it will disengage with in the top inch or so of the throw (ie i only need to push the pedal down an inch-ish to shift gears). is there a chance that the clutch it not fully engaging at full pressure when the pedal is all the way out / causing slipping? and can i adjust anything to make sure?

thanks!
There is a chance. Pedal play should be adjusted or at least inspected before you tear into the clutch.

However the clutch engagement point relative to pedal position is different from car to car.
 

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However the clutch engagement point relative to pedal position is different from car to car.
Boy that is the truth. I bought a Honda Accord several years ago with 139,000 miles on it. When I test drove it the clutch seemed to release very high compared to what I was used to and figured I would have to replace it soon after I bought it. We drove it 180,000 miles after that and never had to replace the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
SO Still waiting on my guy to have his lift free to do my clutch - meanwhile I noticed some oil leaking near the front of the motor (its dripping of the front skid plate) i noticed it a bit last time i had my oil changed and the tech said it was likely just the filter leaking a little from not being tight enough - he obviously changed the filter and since the leak has remained. I went back to the shop and though the tech didn't have time to look into it this morning he said it could be the rear main seal, and if that is the problem that could be why the clutch is slipping. so... a couple questions.

The rear main seal is between the engine and the tranny correct?. wouldn't i see the leak behind the oil pan and not in-front?

Also - If this is the case and there is some oil on the clutch does that ruin the clutch? or once the leak is fixed will the clutch somewhat re-surface itself after some use?

I take it the job to do the RMS is most of the way to getting the clutch out no?

thanks for everyone feedback to date.
 
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