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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've been annoyed by some noise on my 2003 frontier since I bought it a couple years back. I'm just about to hit 60k and now have a garage so thought I'd try to change belts. Removed the power steering belt no problem. Thought I should probably replace all the belts at once. I'm now trying to remove the alternator belt. Loosened the bolt that goes to the top of the alternator and loosened the adjusting bolt, but the alternator doesn't budge.

Had a look around the internet. This post http://www.fixya.com/cars/t13499934-change_belts_2002_nissan_frontier_4 suggests that I need to loosen the 9/16 "screw head" just underneath the alternator pulley. The post also implies that it will be very hard to replace the belt. I think they are referring to the pivot bolt that has about 9/16 or 14mm head. It's extremely difficult to turn, so I need to get a breaker tomorrow. Is it correct that I need to loosen this bolt?

The AC belt so far looks much easier from underneath the car, looks like a similar process to the PS belt. Here are a few more diagrams and references I found.

http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/3d6ry-replacing-alternator-2003-nissan-frontier.html

http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/738o5-replace-power-steering-belt-on-a-nissan-frontier.html
 

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It's been a few years since I've done this (on the list to do again soon) and from what I remember, the Alt was the oddball. The other two were just the tensioner pulleys. The Alt has a lock bolt/screw on the tensioner bolt that has to be loosened before you can loosen the tensioner bolt. I can't remember for sure but I know on other vehicles I've had to loosen the other bolt just so the accessory could pivot around it. Hopefully someone else can chime in with a definite yes or no. Other than that, I don't recall anything different about removing/reinstalling the Alt belt. Be careful with the breaker bar, I don't remember any of those bolts being particularly difficult to loosen. You may want to check the 4-banger section too, just make sure they're talking 1st gen.
 

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Be careful with the breaker bar, I don't remember any of those bolts being particularly difficult to loosen.
X2. If It looks like the pivot bolt threads into a captive nut of some sort. Use plenty of penetrating oil on that nut/bolt and be gentle. A common way to free a seized bolt is to hit the head with a hammer to break the rust but you probably don't have room to do that. A gentle back and forth of slightly tightening and loosening will sometimes work, as opposed to just cranking it counterclockwise.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It seemed odd to me that I'd have to remove the pivot bolt to move the alternator, but haven't had any luck moving otherwise . I will give penetrating lube a shot and what not. It's probably better to loosen it anyways if I need to ever replace the alternator, it will be easier. I'm waiting to get some more belts in the mail and I'll get back to this one.
 

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It seemed odd to me that I'd have to remove the pivot bolt to move the alternator, but haven't had any luck moving otherwise.
It doesn't have to be removed, just loosened. Otherwise the alternator won't pivot to R&R the belt & adjust the belt tension.
 

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I've got the 2004 and 1998 4-cylinder Frontiers.

Yes, the pivot bolt must be loosened to rotate the alternator to change or adjust belt, takes a 14mm wrench. The rearmost nut should be a a captive nut. I've changed out the alternator on the '98, and after an out-of-state trip found that the pivot bolt was actually missing on the 2004 Frontier (bought by me in 2011).

FYI, that bolt is 10mm x about 130mm long, and when I couldn't find any longer than 120mm (D'oh !!!) at auto stores or Ace Hardware, I just used a longer 3/8 inch bolt, lockwashers, and nut from Ace Hardware. So now I know why mechanics had trouble "sizing" an alternator belt on that 2004 (from previous owner's receipts) - the pivot bolt was missing so position of the alternator was constantly changing. That Frontier only had like 89K on it and was pristine, wonder if bolt fell out or some Gomer or Goober mechanic just forgot to re-install it !!
 

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This is a note file I have made from multiple belt changes on my '4 4 banger...

ALT - 17365 Use universal joint ratchet to loosen tensioner bolt, then remove tensioner block bolt. To put on... wrap around driver's side of main pulley (off on bottom) & barely crank motor

P/S - 17495

A/C - 15355 (one size smaller?) Yes 15350 is correct size

Not sure how much may be applicable for you, but this info saves me a ton of time re-learning the ins & outs everytime I do this. Also at some point I replaced the pivot bolt nut with a lock nut that I don't keep tight enough to need to loosen it every time

Last time I did this was just over a year ago & I just heard squealing a couple days ago for the first time since then

I think I replaced my A/C tensioner pulley at some point, which may explain why I use a smaller than factory listed belt
 

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Found this thread and need a little help/advice.

My '04 Frontier 4-cyclinder had the water pump/alternator belt break. Can't get the alternator to rotate to get new belt on. My issue is with that pivot bolt on the bottom.

There's a crazy looking nut on the back of it. I think you guys called it a "captive nut." It's got a long wing or side or something to it.
Well I put the 14mm socket on the front of pivot bolt and turned it a little (was very tough) and now that nut in the back is stuck up against
something and I can't turn the bolt anymore to loosen it. Putting a lot of force on it and still nothing. Thus, can't move the alternator.

Please help . . . what's the deal w/ that odd looking nut and how can I loosen that pivot bolt? I don't want to snap anything off and pretty much am stuck at moment on what to do.

Thanks!
 

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It's called a captive nut because it can't turn. Try to get some good penetrating oil on that nut and let it sit overnight. Then try taking your socket/ratchet and rock the bolt back and forth, tightening and loosening. Is there room to hit the head of the pivot bolt with a hammer? Many times that will break loose the rust.

If you end of breaking the bolt take Cusser's advice and buy another bolt/nut/lockwasher.
 

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Thanks.

I'm pretty sure I spun that captive nut some, as the long side was pointing straight up when I started and now is parallel with ground and up against something metal and totally jammed. Is that bad?

I'll try that advice w/ penetrating oil. No room for hammer. I've tried the rubber mallet before on other jobs, but this area is too tight.
 
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