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Discussion Starter #22
Low pressure / low on refrigerant.
The neon green is dye that's used for leak detecting.
I figured as much. But with the damage to the 80 Amp better fuse sometimes the fuses would have power sometimes they wouldn't. On the upside even with the green dye in and the fact its been sitting I didn't see any signs of the green dye on any lines if fittings sorry for asking so many questions but do you know where the low pressure switch is located?
 

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I figured as much. But with the damage to the 80 Amp better fuse sometimes the fuses would have power sometimes they wouldn't. On the upside even with the green dye in and the fact its been sitting I didn't see any signs of the green dye on any lines if fittings sorry for asking so many questions but do you know where the low pressure switch is located?
Download the Heating and Air Conditioning section of the FSM that was linked to you in your introductory post. The info you seek is on page 16.

Refrigerant will slowly leak from a system as time goes by. It's a 22 year old truck.
Did you use a Ultra Violet flashlight when looking for leaks?
 

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You should hook up some gauges to find out the low and high side pressures before anything else.

My guess is that you have a dual pressure switch that is doing exactly what it's supposed to do.

Just fyi....The dye doesn't stay visible forever.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Download the Heating and Air Conditioning section of the FSM that was linked to you in your introductory post. The info you seek is on page 16.

Refrigerant will slowly leak from a system as time goes by. It's a 22 year old truck.
Did you use a Ultra Violet flashlight when looking for leaks?
I had planned to do just that I wanted to get the charging system working properly before jumping onto the next project. Once again I'd like to think every single one of you for your help. There's not alot of information online about these trucks online with the exception of this site. Even YouTube doesn't have much at all on them.
 

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I'm pretty experienced in auto AC, have replaced the high pressure AC line due to pinhole and last summer removed an AC clutch shim in my 1998 Frontier. And have replaced the compressor, condenser, and drier in my 2004 Frontier after it seized.

AC Rule #1. NEVER add any sealer or refrigerant containing sealers or conditioners. UV dye is fine, and recommended.

Attach real gauge set to the AC service valvesSo start engine, turn on AC and blower fan, check for
 

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I'm pretty experienced in auto AC, have replaced the high pressure AC line due to pinhole and last summer removed an AC clutch shim in my 1998 Frontier. And have replaced the compressor, condenser, and drier in my 2004 Frontier after it seized.

AC Rule #1. NEVER add any sealer or refrigerant containing sealers or conditioners. UV dye is fine, and recommended.

Attach real gauge set to the AC service valves to find out the low and high side pressures before anything else; this is called the static pressure. Post that. Yes - it's possible - that slow normal loss of refrigerant over the years could be your only issue, we'll find out.

So if static pressures are OK, start engine, turn on AC and blower fan, check for 12 V positive voltage in the wire going to the AC clutch. Most likely, there will NOT be positive voltage there, or the AC clutch drive plate will engage by itself, and you wouldn't need to jump it.

Since you do know how to jump the compressor, it would be interesting to read your low and high side pressures at about 1500 rpm and post those; running jumped for a minute shouldn't damage anything.
 
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Discussion Starter #28
I'm pretty experienced in auto AC, have replaced the high pressure AC line due to pinhole and last summer removed an AC clutch shim in my 1998 Frontier. And have replaced the compressor, condenser, and drier in my 2004 Frontier after it seized.

AC Rule #1. NEVER add any sealer or refrigerant containing sealers or conditioners. UV dye is fine, and recommended.

Attach real gauge set to the AC service valves to find out the low and high side pressures before anything else; this is called the static pressure. Post that. Yes - it's possible - that slow normal loss of refrigerant over the years could be your only issue, we'll find out.

So if static pressures are OK, start engine, turn on AC and blower fan, check for 12 V positive voltage in the wire going to the AC clutch. Most likely, there will NOT be positive voltage there, or the AC clutch drive plate will engage by itself, and you wouldn't need to jump it.

Since you do know how to jump the compressor, it would be interesting to read your low and high side pressures at about 1500 rpm and post those; running jumped for a minute shouldn't damage anything.
Thanks buddy you have been epically helpful I can't think you enough. To be honest I don't have any guages and right now after an on the job injury I can't afford any. What was interesting I took it for a drive with the wire going to the thermostat and although it was cool it never got as cool as a good working ac. I'm going to ask around to see if some of my buddies may have some guages. Thanks again.
 

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Auto parts stores have loaner sets of manifold gauges that require a deposit which is returned upon gauge return.
 

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Auto parts stores have loaner sets of manifold gauges that require a deposit which is returned upon gauge return.
Yes, depending on your location. A few years ago I got the free loaner gauge set and vacuum pump at local Autozone (small town, rural Arizona), as my stuff was at my primary residence 105 miles away.

You may want to start a new thread for the AC stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Osceola Arkansas-50 miles north of Memphis. I think I will go and talk to Auto Zone were on pretty good terms.
 
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