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You have to replace the whole thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just got to napa and get a new one, just over $100.
Thanks for the tip, my price of 200 was based of the genuine Nissan one on 4x4parts. However, I'd rather just fix it for good. I've got less than 35k on this one.

Now, since the one I just bought off R.A.D. doesn't come with hardware, can any using a HooHaa cl tell me what all I need?
 

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Thanks for the tip, my price of 200 was based of the genuine Nissan one on 4x4parts. However, I'd rather just fix it for good. I've got less than 35k on this one.

Now, since the one I just bought off R.A.D. doesn't come with hardware, can any using a HooHaa cl tell me what all I need?

I think your gonna need 5/8 bolts (x2), 5/8 nuts (x2) and 4 washers... all grade 8 of course.

Go to grassroots4x4.com and read up on it. I think it says what comes with the kit.
 

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you need 2 5/8s inch bolts drilled for a castle nut (to keep the bolt on with a cotter pin)... i believe the bolts were 3" long

have a machine shop drill a hole in the bolt for the cotter pin

make sure to test fit it for the length, you dont want it too long because the bolt will hit the bottom of the frame when turning

I think your gonna need 5/8 bolts (x2), 5/8 nuts (x2) and 4 washers... all grade 8 of course.

Go to grassroots4x4.com and read up on it. I think it says what comes with the kit.
always use castle nuts with cotter pins on any suspension/steering component
 

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you need 2 5/8s inch bolts drilled for a castle nut (to keep the bolt on with a cotter pin)... i believe the bolts were 3" long

have a machine shop drill a hole in the bolt for the cotter pin

make sure to test fit it for the length, you dont want it too long because the bolt will hit the bottom of the frame when turning



always use castle nuts with cotter pins on any suspension/steering component


Ya sorry I forgot about the castles and pins... my bad.
 

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Thanks for the tip, my price of 200 was based of the genuine Nissan one on 4x4parts. However, I'd rather just fix it for good. I've got less than 35k on this one.

Now, since the one I just bought off R.A.D. doesn't come with hardware, can any using a HooHaa cl tell me what all I need?
Wow! 35k and its wasted already huh? Dont blame ya then, I got 80k out of mine even with hard wheeling.

Any tips for separating the TREs from the centerlink without destroying the boots?
You coul try to find a ball joint seperator small enough, But if not boots are replaceable for a couple bucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah the biggest gripe I have about the Wrangler MT/R w/ Kevlar is the weight. Those things are HEAVY. My 32s are 56 pounds a piece and on steel wheels which make things worse. I figure that's got something to do with it.
 

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The weight thing is something that I am starting to look at more and more. It affects acceleration, braking, steering, and suspension response (bumps and dips). unsprung weight is baaaad m'kay....


I'm running about 96lbs a corner and chewing through front suspension componants. Thats D rated BFG A/T KO's in 285/75R16 and 16 inch Steel wheels.


I'm planning on going to 35s(35x12.5x15), C rated BFG's on 15" Aluminum wheels is about 75lbs a corner.....I imagine the weight loss is going to make up for the taller tire

OEM I figured was around 55lbs a corner at least for my pathy with its stock alum wheels
 

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Besides, D rated tires are SERIOUSLY overkill on a vehicle with a GVWR of just over 5k lol. they can hold 3300lbs PER tire.
 

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Besides, D rated tires are SERIOUSLY overkill on a vehicle with a GVWR of just over 5k lol. they can hold 3300lbs PER tire.
Higher load ratings have tougher sidewalls and more plies in the tread, making them very durable for offroading. My Dunlop R/Ts are E Load Range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Went to do the install today and I could not get the TREs separated from the stock centerlink. I used a few different pullers (broke one others would slip under a lot of pressure), a pickle fork, BF dead blow, BFH and a piece of brass, and even tried an air chisel. In the end the only option I had was to put it back together. I had to re drill the cotter key hole because the pullers caved it in. Both sides are seriously stuck bad, any tips would be awesome. Yes I used a penetrating oil.
 

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No use for a dead blow on TREs, just FYI. You need the shock of a BFH. Hit the side of the spot where the TREs "bolts" "shafts" "shank" (what ever they are called) go through the eye. If that doesnt work put some tension on it with a pickle fork or a puller and then hit it with the BFH, and hit it like a boy the first time. I mean really knock the crap out of it. It'll pop loose.
 
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