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Picked up a decent 20 inch LED light bar for the front of the Frontier. I have a second cargo light dash switch salvaged from a local salvage yard (they did not have any Xterra off road lamp switches) along with the pig tail wired "plug" for the rear of the Cargo lamp switch. Was wondering if I could use it for the LED light bar? If so, can someone help with which wire should be tapped on the switch pig tail for the back light and which one should be tapped for the line running to the relay? Not very "electrical" minded, but a simple pic or diagram would help.

Thanks
 

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The cargo lamp switch is just a plain old on/off, so that shouldn't be a problem. I'll have a look through my saved diagrams and such, see if I can help you. What colours are the wires in the harness?
 

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When adding driving lights I always use a relay so that the full power of the light bar is not being drawn into the cab and through the switch on the dash.
 

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^^ this... You'll be pulling ~10Amps for that bar (assuming 120-130watt bar) while the switch may be rated for that, its best practice to run a relay. If for no other reason as you'd have to run a new power source for the bar, whereas you can run the switch off of a keyed existing power (power port for example) to power the switch, then your new power line for the lights doesn't have to come from the engine bay to the cabin then Back to the engine bay...
 

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When adding driving lights I always use a relay so that the full power of the light bar is not being drawn into the cab and through the switch on the dash.
Absolutely should be a rule of life LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The cargo lamp switch is just a plain old on/off, so that shouldn't be a problem. I'll have a look through my saved diagrams and such, see if I can help you. What colours are the wires in the harness?
Thanks! The wiring harness has four wires coming from it:
1) Light grey with silver tracer
2) Black with two silver tracers
3) Purple with silver tracer
4) Light Pink (maybe faded out orange) with silver tracer

Appreciate the help!!

When adding driving lights I always use a relay so that the full power of the light bar is not being drawn into the cab and through the switch on the dash.
Agreed and that is my intention. Just trying to figure out which of the four wires should be tapped to run to the relay as well as which wire to tap for the ground, the hot and the dash light. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
^^ this... You'll be pulling ~10Amps for that bar (assuming 120-130watt bar) while the switch may be rated for that, its best practice to run a relay. If for no other reason as you'd have to run a new power source for the bar, whereas you can run the switch off of a keyed existing power (power port for example) to power the switch, then your new power line for the lights doesn't have to come from the engine bay to the cabin then Back to the engine bay...
Agree with this as well. I will be running power (with a fuse) and ground to the battery with power continuing to the relay using the wiring harness that was supplied with the LED light bar. From the relay on the wiring harness is a white wire going to the supplied switch and then a red & black from the supplied switch back out for power and ground. My thought was to ditch the supplied and ugly switch and swap it out using the salvaged Nissan Cargo light switch that has four wires coming out of the white "molex?" connector on the back of the switch an then being able to mount the Nissan Cargo light switch in any of the rectangular holes thereby having a factory look with matching factory amber back lighting on the switch. Would rather have had the Xterra Off Road Lamp switch, but could not locate one. Thanks
 

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Gray and Black are the switch; polarity does not matter.
Purple and Pink (Nisan calls it Violet) are the night illumination LED. Purple is + and Violet is -.
If convenient, splice the Purple and Violet wires into the same-color wires on the existing Cargo Lamp switch.
 

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I would like to pull power to the switch for fog light installation also. I was also looking at the cargo switch to pull the switch power from. Which color wire can I use for "always on" power to the Hella supplied switch which will trigger the relay? I have a 3 wire switch... Ground, 1 wire from relay and then the wire which I was supposed to run to the headlight, which will not let me run the fog lights independently like I want to
 

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Would rather have had the Xterra Off Road Lamp switch, but could not locate one. Thanks
There's 4 on eBay right now. Try searching eBay for "Nissan off road lamp switch" - they're not that hard to find.
 

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I would like to pull power to the switch for fog light installation also. I was also looking at the cargo switch to pull the switch power from. Which color wire can I use for "always on" power to the Hella supplied switch which will trigger the relay? I have a 3 wire switch... Ground, 1 wire from relay and then the wire which I was supposed to run to the headlight, which will not let me run the fog lights independently like I want to

There is no constant power wire to the Cargo Lamp switch. It simply provides a logic signal to the body computer, and does not switch any load power.
If you are willing to be satisfied with light bar operation only when the tail lights are on, you could use the Purple wire for relay control power (OPTION 1 in the drawing).
If your preference is "anytime" operation, OPTION 2 is simpler than finding a constant 12V for the switch. You can use the Black wire on the existing cargo Lamp switch for Ground.

 

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The Force is weak up here in New England, so you will actually have to tell us something about your 3-terminal switch other than "Hella". Hella only makes lighting products; they likely purchased the switch from another supplier.

There are (at least) 2 ways to accomplish this:
(1) Find the installation instructions for your Hella fog light kit online and post the link;
(2) Use an ohmmeter to fill out this chart (6 readings total), and post the results:

- - - - - - - - - OHMMETER READINGS - - - - -
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Switch Terminals - - - (1-2) - - (1-3) - - (2-3)
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Position A
Position B
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
 

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Oops I just thought that it was a common switch type. Today I was able to talk to a tech at Hella. I think that I am now squared away. We will know this weekend when I have the time to do the work. Thank you so much for the help. Al
 

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No Problem . . . I am sure it is a common switch type, but there are at least 6 different common "3-wire" switch types used in cars. Examples include power window, power door lock, and power antenna switches.

The circuit recommended by Hella is probably this one:


The switch assembly consists of a 2 terminal switch plus an indicator light, typically connected between the "load" and "ground" terminals. The indicator will light whenever the switch is "on". Functionally, this is similar to OPTION 1 in the earlier post, except with OPTION 1 the nearby tail light wire is used for control power instead of having to locate a source of constant power. Another advantage is, if you forget to turn off the fog/aux lights, they will always turn off with the tail lights to avoid a dead battery. The disadvantage is you cannot turn on the fog/aux lights unless the tail lights are on. It's all a matter of personal preference.
 

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Wow this got way too complicated... You guys can save yourselves the trouble of trying to make the Cargo Lamp switch work like it's not intended to by just dropping the idea and buying one of these:

Push switch 107 12V Nissan OEM Replacement LED LIGHT BAR legend 3A

It doesn't even make sense to have an LED light bar activated by a "cargo lamp" switch
::wink::
 

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All is good. With advice from a different thread I pulled the power from a wiring connector taped to the right side of the steering column. Possibly used for trailer brakes. Once I had the chance to complete the wiring ... and remembered to place the fuse on the battery line .... it all came together. Thanks to everyone for their help Al
 
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