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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have spend hours already trying to figure this out by searching through the forum but I can't really find what I'm looking for. I decided to just start a thread and see if anybody has any info.

I have reviewed all of the instructions for properly engaging/disengaging the diff lock and am absolutely sure I have tried it by the correct method a number of times, still no luck. I can't get a solid diff lock light so as far as I know my diff lock is out of commission.

I have used the diff lock in the past with no problems in a couple light off road situations.

I did see some posts about people's idiot lights flickering on and off on some random occasions. (slip, diff lock,and maybe abs) I too have shared this observation more than a year ago over a period of maybe a couple of months. It finally went away so I figured hmmm... oh well, maybe it was nothing important.

I don't know for sure but I don't think I have attempted to use the diff lock since the randomly flickering lights until recently, when I discovered the problem. As far as I know I never did anything that would lead me to suspect that I actually broke anything.

Anybody have any suggestions or things I might try on my own to fix it or even further diagnose the problem?

If you know of a thread that deals directly with this situation that would be good too, I just couldn't find one.

Eventually I guess I'll take it into the dealer and see what they can do but I much prefer the DIY option whenever possible.
 

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I have to ask, are you sure you are in 4lo when you try to engage the diff lock?

Also, have you double checked to make sure non of your abs lines are fubared?

Those would be the first 2 things to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am absolutely sure I was all the way in 4lo. I could tell by the fact that the 4lo light changed from blinking to solid as well as the fact that when I put it in gear and started driving I could tell I was in low range.

In the past I'm sure I have flicked the switch before I was in 4lo like when I first got the truck and maybe didn't know any better but I have used it successfully since then. I don't think one mistake like that would cause it not to work, worst case maybe a temporary error or something I would think.

By ABS lines I am assuming you are referring to the brake lines. I have not completely checked them. I could do that. How would that cause trouble with the diff lock?

I haven't had any of those lights flicker recently either and I would think that if there was an ABS problem then that light would come on. right?
 

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Jack up the rear, spin the tires by hand. When the diff is open, the tires will go opposite directions. Lock the diff, spin the tires and see if they both go the same direction. If so, your locker engages so you will need to trouble shoot the dummy light. Check it out to see if it at least engages.
 

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I always found making a slight turn while going thru the procedure gets it to lock right in on the first try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jack up the rear, spin the tires by hand. When the diff is open, the tires will go opposite directions. Lock the diff, spin the tires and see if they both go the same direction. If so, your locker engages so you will need to trouble shoot the dummy light. Check it out to see if it at least engages.
Jacked it up and no luck, tires spin opposite directions as the diff lock light continues to flash.

I always found making a slight turn while going thru the procedure gets it to lock right in on the first try.
I tried that and no luck still.

Auto Trans... Make sure you apply the brakes while in "N" after you get into 4Lo.
Tried applying and re-applying, no luck.

I would also suggest attempting this. At CREEPING speed.
Tried rolling this way a bit, turning that way a bit, back to neutral, brakes, over and over, still just a flashing light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The dealers want $80-100 just to look at.

Has anybody else had this problem with the diff lock not working?
 

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make sure your actually getting power to the solenoid
disconnect the harness at the solenoid , put the truck in 4lo and throw the switch on , check for 12v
if you dont have 12 volts check for blown fuses or bad wires
if you do have 12 volts , turn the truck off and check the resistance of the solenoid(male harness coming from diff) in the ohms setting on a multi-meter , if you dont have any reading then you probably have a bad solenoid or broken wire in the diff for the solenoid
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
make sure your actually getting power to the solenoid
disconnect the harness at the solenoid , put the truck in 4lo and throw the switch on , check for 12v
if you dont have 12 volts check for blown fuses or bad wires
if you do have 12 volts , turn the truck off and check the resistance of the solenoid(male harness coming from diff) in the ohms setting on a multi-meter , if you dont have any reading then you probably have a bad solenoid or broken wire in the diff for the solenoid
Disconnected the harness and got good continuity from the solenoid(good news!) I couldn't get a voltage on the harness side because I couldn't get my probes in the tiny slits. I'll probably try to find something better so I can test that voltage.

From the time I disconnected the harness and tried to engage the diff lock until I turned the truck off and back on I couldn't even get the flashing light. The computer must have sensed the change. After I plugged back in and restarted though I'm back to where I was with just the blinking light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I used some pins out of a sewing kit to make it easier to probe the harness end of the diff lock solenoid plug. I get about 12 volts for probably a few seconds right when I flip the switch then it drops to 4.4 volts and holds there. I figure the computer senses a problem and stops sending full power when it is disconnected.

As far as I can tell the solenoid seems to be fine electrically and the harness seems to be sending juice. I also tried an off road test again to see if I could make it work. No luck, the diff lock light still just blinks at me when I try to engage it.

Any more ideas?
 

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You could have a local auto parts store check you computer for error codes. I'm referring to codes that are related to the locker's activation.

Did you try resetting your computer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You could have a local auto parts store check you computer for error codes. I'm referring to codes that are related to the locker's activation.

Did you try resetting your computer?
I don't know anything about resetting my computer. I guess I should try that first if it is something I can do on my own.

If that doesn't work I guess I will probably cruise over to an auto parts store and see if they'll check it out.
 

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I get about 12 volts for probably a few seconds right when I flip the switch then it drops to 4.4 volts and holds there.
i would think that if the computer sensed a problem it wouldnt send any voltage at all

try disconnecting the battery and clean the terminals then put them back on

sounds like you have a bad connection coming from the switch to the harness like a loose power wire or bad ground

you can verify this by runnin a wire from the battery (with a fuse in line) and try to wire up the solenoid , connect the battery and see if the diff engages , if it does you light diff lock light should go solid
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think I reset the computer. I did the whole routine with pushing the gas pedal 5 times fast then holding it on and off and it seemed to react as it was supposed to with the service engine light. Then I did all the learning procedures and went and tried the diff lock off road again. Still no luck.

I did notice that I can definitely hear a relay or something when i turn the diff lock switch on and off.

Next I went to a handful of auto parts stores and the only place that wouldn't charge me at least as much as the dealership for the diagnostic test had a computer that couldn't access any logs or history. They could only detect current error codes. They asked me if my engine light was on and I said no. They said that they wouldn't be able to help. So I went out to the truck and put it in 4lo with the diff lock switch flipped on so there was a light on for them to see so they would plug their thing in. No codes though. Bummer.
 

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How many miles on your truck? Your problem should fall under the drivetrain warranty.

I checked the service manual, and found your problem can only be solved using a Nissan Consult-ll computer.

PRECAUTIONS

Before connecting or disconnecting differential lock control
unit harness connector, turn ignition switch “OFF” and disconnect
the battery cable from the negative terminal.
Because battery voltage is applied to differential lock control
unit even if ignition switch is turned “OFF”.
 When connecting or disconnecting pin connectors into or
from differential lock control unit, take care not to damage
pin terminals (bend or break).
When connecting pin connectors make sure that there are
not any bends or breaks on differential lock control unit pin
terminal.

Fail-safe Function EDS0027I
If any malfunction occurs in the differential lock system, and the control unit detects the malfunction, the DIFF
LOCK indicator lamp on the combination meter does not turn ON to indicate system malfunction. The differential
lock control unit turns the differential lock solenoid OFF.

CAUTION:
Customers are not professional. It is dangerous to make an
easy guess like "maybe the customer means that...," or
"maybe the customer mentions this symptom".
It is essential to check symptoms right from the beginning in
order to repair malfunctions completely.
For intermittent malfunctions, reproduce symptoms based on
interview with customer and past examples. Do not perform
inspection on ad hoc basis. Most intermittent malfunctions are
caused by poor contacts. In this case, it will be effective to shake
suspected harness or connector by hand. When repairing without
any symptom diagnosis, you cannot judge if malfunctions
have actually been eliminated.
After completing diagnosis, always erase diagnostic memory.
Refer to RFD-89, "How to Erase Self-diagnostic Results" .
For intermittent malfunctions, move harness or harness connector
by hand. Then check for poor contact or reproduced open circuit.
 

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I'll be in New Orleans tomorrow... even though its a little ways away from Lafayette. If you happen to be in the area tomorrow, PM me and I"ll give you my #. I'd be glad to look at it and see if I can figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It will probably eventually come to me taking it in to the dealer. I just prefer not to involve them if it is possible plus then I'll probably have to be without my truck for at least a few days which isn't so easy to deal with especially because my wife and I are sharing it as an only vehicle right now.
 

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Gotcha... well the offer is still there, so if you are in the New Orleans/ slidell/ Hammond area, give me a shout!
 
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