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Discussion Starter #1
…ing the pan?
I was sorting out a surging issue, cold idle/thermal switch adjustment, then TPS, then timing) and was following the troubleshooting diagram in the FSM.
I read some posts, googled and such, and came to the thought that since the TCM wasn’t giving me any codes, I might have a solenoid acting up.
Can I test it from the wire loom connection on the tranny? Or do I have to pull the pan and the VB?

Symptoms are,
Shifts into D or R fine
Takeoff & 1-2 smooth & firm
theres a spot at 2300 or so that it feels like it wants to catch 3rd and then it freewheels to 45-5000 and then hooks 3rd
No 4th

Warm/cold all the same.

Oh, and has anyone used one of the knockoff Consult programs?

Thanks for any help,
Craig
 

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…ing the pan?
I was sorting out a surging issue, cold idle/thermal switch adjustment, then TPS, then timing) and was following the troubleshooting diagram in the FSM.
I read some posts, googled and such, and came to the thought that since the TCM wasn’t giving me any codes, I might have a solenoid acting up.
Can I test it from the wire loom connection on the tranny? Or do I have to pull the pan and the VB?

Symptoms are,
Shifts into D or R fine
Takeoff & 1-2 smooth & firm
theres a spot at 2300 or so that it feels like it wants to catch 3rd and then it freewheels to 45-5000 and then hooks 3rd
No 4th

Warm/cold all the same.

Oh, and has anyone used one of the knockoff Consult programs?

Thanks for any help,
Craig
The terminal cable (the cord that goes from the valve body to the engine harness) goes up to the passenger side of the engine compartment. You can unplug the harness connectors and use an ohmmeter to test the resistance in the solenoid circuits, which would include the wires in the terminal cord as well as the solenoids, themselves. There should be a referral to this in the FSM. By your description, it sounds like your trans may have an internal problem, such as a bad clutch pack. I think Autozone and most stores that have tool loaner programs have oil gauges (or transmission gauges) that you can borrow. If so, then you may want to do stall and line pressure tests, which are outlined in the FSM, as well, including the location of the test port plugs on the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info. I was looking through the FSM and checking off more things, TPS WOT closed/open switch(which Chilton/haynes has wrong), drop resistor, linkage adjustment(still need to test PNP switch)

I had more/clarified symptoms also.
I think i only have 1 & 2. (45 or so at 4000+ rpm?)
If I put it in D and accelerate once I get above 2500 or so, if I let up on the accelerator it drops immediately to idle, no engine brake.

The guy I bought it from replaced a corroded gas tank and said it ran/drove perfect for a 2 days then this started. He said he did have it at the dealer and they replaced a bunch of parts but told him it was “probably a wiring issue and would be about 1k to chase it down”

After adjusting so much that was already replaced and only with 129k miles I was thinking electrical, possibly solenoid?

You have two solenoids for shifting, right? A & B both closed for D1, one opens for D2, then the second opens for D3?
If one failed would it set a code? Or mechanically stuck?
I was looking at AT-133 and it says that it would set a code if there was a mechanical malfunction but not a short.

When I tried to pull codes from the O/D light, it flashed 10 even flashes, so no codes, correct?
 

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I think that means no codes, but I'm not sure. It's been a long time since I had to do the manual code procedure so go by what the FSM states. The shift solenoids are not sold individually, but as a "solenoid pack." There are four solenoids: "A" shift solenoid, "B" shift solenoid, EPC and the Overrun clutch solenoid. The Nissan P/N, which has been superceded several times, is 31940-41X13. From an online Nissan site, you'll probably find them around $350. Rockauto has them for around $140, but I can't tell you how good they are because I've never used them. If my memory is correct, you can replace the solenoid pack without fully removing the valve body, but you'll still have to loosen the appropriate bolts to lower down the valve body a little. Make sure you consult the FSM if you do this because only a few of the 10MM head bolts on the valve body hold it to the case while the others just hold the valve body plates together. You would need a 10MM universal socket in 1/4" drive, a long 1/4" drive extension and a ratchet, plus a torque wrench that can torque the bolts to 72-in/lb. Overtightening the bolts can cause the valve body to warp. Of course, you would also need ATF, a pan gasket and Nissan recommends replacing all of the pan bolts with self-sealing bolts (I think there's 21 of them, if not mistaken). If the solenoid failed, it "should" set a code in a perfect world.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, so testing the resistance in the solenoids resulted in 3 measuring @ 25-28 ohms, however, the Line Pressure Solenoid tests at 0.

When I applied 12v to each lead, only the LPS made any sound.

So I’m planning on ordering the solenoids, however....
When I dropped the valve body I had three springs drop out also, small, medium, large.
Where do they go?
I looked through the FSM and could see springs listed in the accumulators, but they should fall out, right?
I’m heading back out for pics, brb.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So... I was working on disassembling the valve body to install the “shift correction kit” and ran into a snag.
The only 4-2 relay valve is stuck in its bore. Worse, it wedged so I can’t reinstall the pin and finish the job.

So I ask....

Anyone have an old valve body lying around?

Even just the upper half!
Sure, I’m planning on a manual swap, but for this winter I was going to fix and run as is. Sigh....
Please let me know if you can help!
Thanks,
Craig
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