Nissan Frontier Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I was wondering if you could buy a supercharger from another 1st gen model and stick it in a non sc first gen model fairly easily
 

·
Registered
2004 Nissan Frontier XE KC KA24DE
Joined
·
2,788 Posts
Yes. But I'm not sure what fairly easy means to you. Fairly easy for some might be extremely difficult for others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yes. But I'm not sure what fairly easy means to you. Fairly easy for some might be extremely difficult for others.
im quite new to vehicles in general, but if it requires hours of effort Id probably take it to a shop for them to do it? If its not a million dollars
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,040 Posts
If you are meaning the factory SC it is likely not worth the effort. The HP only goes up a bit, but then you need to use premium gas. You can do it, but not sure the juice is worth the squeeze.
 
  • Like
Reactions: paulforeman02

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
If you are meaning the factory SC it is likely not worth the effort. The HP only goes up a bit, but then you need to use premium gas. You can do it, but not sure the juice is worth the squeeze.
seeing the build linked above the guy used an xterra sc, but is it the same install process with most superchargers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,040 Posts
The engine and drivetrain in the xterra and frontier are the same other than the length of the drive shaft and the placement of the rear leaf springs s if you look at the directions on either they should work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
The engine and drivetrain in the xterra and frontier are the same other than the length of the drive shaft and the placement of the rear leaf springs s if you look at the directions on either they should work.
well, if one day I could find a crashed sc frontier or xterra I wonder if it would be worth to do it then.
I like the 1st gen frontier, id just like a better 0-60 time. I dont expect it to be a race car but the 0-60 time currently is pretty pathetic
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,061 Posts
NOS. If done conservativly it is pretty reliable.

Don't need a whole donor vehicle. Nissan often builds a different engine for forced induction. Stronger bottom end and lower compression ratio.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
If you are meaning the factory SC it is likely not worth the effort. The HP only goes up a bit, but then you need to use premium gas. You can do it, but not sure the juice is worth the squeeze.
I'm here to say that since the N/A puts out a weak 170hp maybe, that the SC it totally worth it. Bumps you up to maybe 200hp? (210 by the book I think). That's a big percent when you're starting with so little power! Haha, it's all perspective. The thing is still slow but she kicks butt in 4-lo at elevation and in the snow or sand! Low end torque is up and that's what I wanted! I love having the SC installed every time I drive it (but boy, I'd love the power the 2nd gens come with).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
834 Posts
Watch These Guys, they have a 3 part series showing how to do it. Part 1 linked below.

If you have a 99-02 you can also get the exhaust manifolds from a 03-04 frontier/Xterra and gain an additional 10 Horse

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Watch These Guys, they have a 3 part series showing how to do it. Part 1 linked below.

If you have a 99-02 you can also get the exhaust manifolds from a 03-04 frontier/Xterra and gain an additional 10 Horse

dang that helped me understand everything a tad bit more, right now im in the process of saving for parts... I still am unsure what parts to get as Ive gotten 2 lists of what to get
onelist was off the youtube video and the other was just me talking to someone about it all.

1. Supercharger, ECU, Gaskets, Hitachi Knock Sensor, Fluids, Timing Belt/Water pump, Idler pulleys, SC Belt, Fuel injector cleaning/rebuild, Colder heat range NGK plugs

2. supercharger, pulley bridge, ac compressor, upper intake penum, injectors, lower intake, crank pulley

So I'm still unsure what all to buy, I havent found many donor cars in the area so might just ask around for parts to get on a group I'm in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
834 Posts
Below is all my opinion.I haven't done the conversion yet

I'm sure you saw In the 2nd video i think of the series they show everything you need laying on the garage floor and then show proof with a test drive in the 3rd video where you can hear the SC whine as they give it gas on accelerations.

I grabbed the ECU out of the Donor Xterra that i got the SC out of ( I Pulled and got the whole engine for $250) .
Gaskets - YES,
Knock Sensor - good question, if the SC model uses a different one then you'd need that too.
Fluids - The SC model uses nothing special.
Water Pump and Timing Belt - Not sure why you'd need anything different unless the SC uses something special which i'm pretty sure it doesn't. I do however think the timing has to be advanced a hair (or maybe not) but check the Factory Service Manual for that which you can find here: https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals
Spark Plugs - i'd just use whatever Nissan calls for.
Idler Pulleys - will be on the bridge when you pull it.
AC Compressor - You can simply swap the SC pulley onto your existing Compressor. They're the same Compressor just different pulleys. 4 rib vs 5 for the SC
Upper n Lower Intake with Gaskets - YES.
Fuel Rail with Injectors - DEFINITELY. The SC Injectors have a wider opening and spray more gas than the N/A Injectors.

Crank Pulley / Harmonic Balancer, SC Belt, and AC Compressor - You can use your existing parts without having to swap in the SC parts.
The SC Belt Has an extra rib/groove in it. its 4 for the N/A and 5 for the SC. That extra rib doesn't mean squat. Sure its a tougher belt but realistically it wont make a difference. I've seen high horsepower engines running on a belt that had 2 less ribs in it than what was supposed to be on it. As long as the belt is in the pulley grooves it doesn't matter if you have the correct width belt. It just simply doesn't matter. Everything will stay lined up. The 4 groove belt wont "wander" off into the 5th groove. It'll stay put in the grooves that its in.
SO
What i'm going to do is keep my existing 4 Rib Crank Pulley and 4 Rib AC Compressor which use a 4 ribbed belt. Then the only thing left that'll have more than 4 ribs will be the SC pulley which has 5 ribs/grooves. It'll be just fine to run that SC Pulley on a 4 rib belt. Everything should line up. Only thing you should have to do to make that work is get a long enough 4 rib belt. So get a length of string and route it where the belt would go, measure it, then hit the autoparts store for a 4 rib belt in that length. OR even a better idea imo is to get the SC belt, measure it, and then get a 4 rib belt thats the same length.
Main reason I like sticking to the 4 rib belt idea better is that i don't have to buy a SC Crank Pulley. They're ridiculously priced for just gaining an extra rib. $300+ is the cheapest i've found where as you can get a brand new N/A Crank Pulley for 50 bucks. The Crank Pulley on my pulled SC engine is jacked bc somebody tried to take it off at the junkyard and no wonder, They're an absurd $300+ Dollars

All other Pulleys on the SC engine are 4 rib except for the Crank Pulley, AC Pulley, and SC Pulley.

Its not like the SC engine is putting out so much power that it'll snap a 4 ribbed belt and that it must have a 5 ribbed belt or it just wont work. They're basically the same engine with the same parts except for the 3 aforementioned pulleys so everything should line right up. I mean the Crank Pulley is in the exact same place on the SC engine as it is on the N/A engine so.....


Heres Some Pics of Notes I got from a guy on the D22 Facebook Group who successfully did the SC Conversion. Basically everything we already know plus some things that may or may not be needed. I'm just posting to add to the convo and honestly i've only just glanced at his notes BUT he successfully did the conversion so.....

01.jpg 02.jpg 03.jpg 04.jpg 05.jpg
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,204 Posts
Get ready for 12-13 MPG combined on premium gas! Swap the S/C pulley for a 2.4" and you'll squeeze a little more power out of her.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
834 Posts
Get ready for 12-13 MPG combined on premium gas! Swap the S/C pulley for a 2.4" and you'll squeeze a little more power out of her.
I already get 12-13mpg. I'm expecting 10 after the conversion lol. The truck isn't my primary vehicle so whatever right
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
121 Posts
Below is all my opinion.I haven't done the conversion yet

Heres Some Pics of Notes I got from a guy on the D22 Facebook Group who successfully did the SC Conversion. Basically everything we already know plus some things that may or may not be needed. I'm just posting to add to the convo and honestly i've only just glanced at his notes BUT he successfully did the conversion so.....

View attachment 323072 View attachment 323073 View attachment 323074 View attachment 323075 View attachment 323076
For those of you seriously considering doing this, that list in the photos is a pretty good list. I've added mine below too.

Get ready for 12-13 MPG combined on premium gas! Swap the S/C pulley for a 2.4" and you'll squeeze a little more power out of her.
Heyo, I've done the SC swap into my 2000 Frontier. I just did headers and custom exhaust too - opened it up for a bit less back pressure. I have the 5-speed, and running 33's, I just got 16.8 mpg while driving up to the mountains last week over a 140mile driver. Not sure why everyone says they do so poorly... maybe they do worse at sea level? I've never gotten WORSE mpg than 12 or 13, and that was on a road trip from Denver to Oklahoma pushing 75mph the whole way with either a cross-wind or head-wind the whole time.

Here's my take on the SC swap process:

I would almost guarantee you will have to run premium fuel to prevent knock/pinging with this setup. I cannot run anything lower than 91 octane in mine now, although I still have the ECU from the Automatic in my 5-speed. That may play a part. Make sure to adjust time engine timing as necessary.

Nissan started offering the S/C as a factory option in 2001 for the Frontier and 2002 for the Xterra. Since my truck is a 2000, there is a chance that I needed a lot more parts than some of you will need for your swap if your vehicles are newer than mine. By those later model years, Nissan may have updated some of the parts that I had to replace on my truck on ALL trim models after the S/C became an option, but I can’t be sure (injectors, MAP sensor, crank pulley, A/C compressor, etc). If you can find a donor vehicle, I’d just pull everything to be safe. Since my truck is a 2000, you may find my list superfluous if Nissan did indeed update the infrastructure of the front of the engine. As a recommendation, if you grab parts from a donor engine, keep all the bolts you remove, as some of them are different quantity/lengths than the ones on the N/A engine.

There is a lower temperature thermostat available for these (170F instead of 180F). It's not much, but if you get knock/pinging issues, it may be worth running the lower temperature thermostat to try to keep the cylinder temps as low as possible. I am running the lower temp one and it helps a little bit... I still get some pinging in the summer when it's really hot out (over 90F).

Additionally, there is a S/C bypass solenoid that you don’t need to use. There is a vacuum-diaphragm on the back of the supercharger that opens when you put the truck under load. It allows full boost when the truck is pulling. It opens and closes relative to how much vacuum the engine is pulling (i.e. how hard down your foot is). There is a bypass solenoid on the S/C model that cuts boost when the truck throws certain CEL codes. Since the N/A engine doesn’t have that solenoid, you can just leave the bottom vacuum hose off of that S/C vacuum-diaphragm. If you swap to a S/C ECU, it’ll throw a CEL for “S/C Bypass Solenoid Failure” since you don’t have one installed. May be possible to install some resistor somewhere, or something to kill that CEL code, but I’m just living with a few CEL codes caused by the S/C install since they don’t hurt the truck at all.


Here is a list of what I got:
  • Fuel rail with injectors – make sure you get all the rubber gaskets that seal the injector heads to the intake, injector connector harnesses/pigtails (they're fragile and I broke a couple so it was nice to have the extras), etc.
  • MAP sensor + harness – the connector to the N/A MAP sensor was different for me, so I just cut the connector lead with enough length to splice it back into the old harness. I’m not sure if you’ll need the MAP sensor or the pig-tail… at some point, Nissan switched to not-using the MAP.
  • ECU (under the dash/center console behind the radio, on the floor board). I have the Automatic S/C ECU in my 5-speed, and it works, just throws a few CEL codes for automatic transmission module failure. I haven’t been able to find a 5-speed S/C ECU, although I know they do exist…
  • Pulley bridge with idler pulleys attached – make sure you get all the pulley spacers/hardware/dust shields, etc. I put new bearings in mine as the used ones were pretty well shot (Amazon had the OEM bearings available).
  • A/C Compressor – it just needs to have the 6-rib pulley. My original one only had 4 ribs, and it runs on the same serpentine belt as the S/C, which is a 6-rib belt. Again, Nissan may have updated this on ALL models after the S/C became an option, but I know I had to change mine out.
  • Main Shaft Pulley – The original one on the 2000 Frontier had a 4-rib section for the A/C, which needs to be 6-ribs now.
  • Supercharger (obviously). If it needs to be rebuilt, I recommend Jon Bond Performance. At a minimum, I would change out the oil in the snout before you install it. Mine had probably never been serviced and had 140,000 on it.
  • S/C serpentine belt (I just went ahead and did new belts on all 3 while I was in there).
  • All upper and lower intake parts (intake pipe-to-SC, SC collector plate, collector-plate-to-heads).
  • Go ahead and replace all the intake gaskets, etc. You can find them all on RockAuto for pretty cheap.
  • Throttle Body (maybe not necessary, but I swapped it just in case)
  • Throttle Cable - it should be longer than your old one by a couple feet I think; my truck already had the longer one installed, but I have read that that is not necessary always the case.
  • Spark plug wires (I just modified my old ones, but a couple of the spark plug tubes for the N/A are too long to fit under the intake pieces. Can modify in a pinch but would recommend replacing).
  • Hood from 2002-2004 Xterra OR some sort of hood scoop (*The factory hood on the 2000 Frontier and the 2000/2001 Xterra sits too low to clear S/C snout. If your Frontier is a 2001-2004, or if you Xterra is a 2002-2004, you already have the right hood. I switched to the Xterra hood and got it painted to match the Frontier).
  • There is a big, brass pre-formed mess of hoses for coolant, etc. I didn't use that. I just used coolant hose and connected everything. That pre-formed hose mess was too tricky to get set in just the right place for me, and after damaging one of the tubes, I just threw it away and used rubber radiator hose instead, which works, as long as you pay attention to the routing obviously. You may be able to get it to work, but I couldn't.
I think that’s it… You could always swap in an entire S/C engine if you could find one, but the engine on the one I had been pulling parts from had a cracked head and broken timing belt…

Feel free to ping me in the future if you ever get into this project and get hung up on anything. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
One of my best friends had a naturally aspirated first gen and I found it underpowered. I routinely out performed it on the trail with my 1990 22RE that had about a hundred horsepower. Last month I helped my neighbor sell her 2004 Supercharged Frontier 5sp 174k, (got $6,250.00) and thought it had considerably more Even with considerably more mileage on it. If I had a naturally-aspirated first gen I would consider the swap in a heartbeat.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top