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Hey guys, I'm looking into trading in my 00' fronty XE 4x2. I'm probably going to buy a '10-14 pro-4x fronty with 70k-120k miles on it. I'm just looking for what to watch out for when buying used with a pretty good amount of miles on it.
Thanks!
 

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I would go 2011 or newer. 2010 was still subject to the potential timing chain issues and radiator cooler failures that occur on some 2005-2010 models. Other than that , I would treat buying one just like any other used vehicle. Get a CARFAX report to view the history of the vehicle, have an independent shop or dealer do an inspection of the vehicle before you buy it if you are not mechanically inclined and, if purchasing from a dealer, try to get at least some sort of warranty, even if it's just a short warranty of 2000 miles or 2-months, whichever comes first. If it's a private sale purchase, obviously the latter won't be an option. The CARFAX will also state the estimated retail value of the vehicle, but you can also check NADA and www.kbb.com. Also, when trading in a vehicle, keep the actual trade value amount separate from what they want to charge you for the new vehicle when negotiating; it's easy for a dealer to make it look like you are getting a lot from your vehicle just by taking some of the mark-up of the vehicle to be purchased and using it to bump up the value of the trade-in, when all they are really doing is moving numbers.
 

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It seems to me that the early 13s had some growing pain issues due to the relocation of the factory??? I remember reading alot of squeaks and rattle comments in my early years on here. No major flaws though on 11s & up. Check for oil around the rear axles/brakes, t-chian noise, need spark plugs?, undercarriage damage from rally cross driving, any sludge dipstick/oil fill. I like to look for color blend differences between the panels. Are the factory vin stickers on the fenders still? My biggest fear of buying used is salvage rigs. RUN AWAY!!! I've seen transmissions held together with JB weld, on a car the customer still owed $15,000 on....
 

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My 2013 has a very subdued squeak when the passenger seat is empty if there are a lot of bumps on the road. I think its just something in or under the seat. It's not frequent enough to be an annoyance but other than that its tight as a drum and that's with about 80K miles on it now.
 

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The 2013+ had aero improvements as well as some engine improvements to get better MPG's according to nissan's site. I would stick with 2013+ personally and that is why I own a 2014 now.

My 2013 has a very subdued squeak when the passenger seat is empty if there are a lot of bumps on the road. I think its just something in or under the seat. It's not frequent enough to be an annoyance but other than that its tight as a drum and that's with about 80K miles on it now.
I have this same issue. It is every time I got over a significant bump. Tiny ones do nothing. I need to figure it out and fix it as it drives me nuts. I only have 22k miles on mine.
 

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The 2013+ had aero improvements as well as some engine improvements to get better MPG's according to nissan's site. I would stick with 2013+ personally and that is why I own a 2014 now.



I have this same issue. It is every time I got over a significant bump. Tiny ones do nothing. I need to figure it out and fix it as it drives me nuts. I only have 22k miles on mine.
the seat frame has a stud that goes through the floorpan. look to see if you have rust/grime there. Could also simply be the seat bolts slightly loose. be careful disconnecting the wiring for the airbags when you unbolt the seat...
Recently pulled my seats & carpeting while doing an audio upgrade and I was very surprised to find locating studs on the seat frame that passed thru the floor pan... also found that the rear seatbolts also protrude and were rusting up with only 2 years... cleaned up the threads, anti-seized to protect and reassembled. also used some rubber tape to make an impromptu floor gasket for the stud to limit dust&water when offroad
 

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the seat frame has a stud that goes through the floorpan. look to see if you have rust/grime there. Could also simply be the seat bolts slightly loose. be careful disconnecting the wiring for the airbags when you unbolt the seat...
Recently pulled my seats & carpeting while doing an audio upgrade and I was very surprised to find locating studs on the seat frame that passed thru the floor pan... also found that the rear seatbolts also protrude and were rusting up with only 2 years... cleaned up the threads, anti-seized to protect and reassembled. also used some rubber tape to make an impromptu floor gasket for the stud to limit dust&water when offroad
Interesting.:surprise:
 
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