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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I dropped $300 on a new driver side window switch yesterday because the circuit board on it fried (driver side window all of a sudden would not longer go back up).

Well, the new switch burnt out on the same day! So I'm stuck again with a driver side window stuck open. Has anyone experienced this before? (The motor was working fine with the new switch)
 

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Bad wiring. Could be you have a broken wire somewhere that is shorting out. Just a guess, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I can't return it. The parts guy at nissan said I couldn't even test it out. He said you have to pay up front for anything electrical, and absoltely no returns.

I have no idea how to diagnose a bad wire. Wouldnt it blow a fuse before shorting a switch?
 

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I've bought defective new parts and they were replaced free. Usually they don't want returns as they think you're keeping theirs to return your broken part for a refund.
I had a bad piece to an electronic ignition the car went from not running to running poorly and after new, new part ran perfectly.
Window switch should only be about $100, how did it cost three times that?

Clint
 

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Has anyone experienced this before? (The motor was working fine with the new switch)
It sounds like the part wasn't bad until after it was installed and used, not sure that's a faulty part . . .

I've never experienced a bad switch, I've replaced several faulty actuators through the years, though. It sounds like you might want to take it to someone with more electrical repair experience before you burn more parts up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've bought defective new parts and they were replaced free. Usually they don't want returns as they think you're keeping theirs to return your broken part for a refund.
I had a bad piece to an electronic ignition the car went from not running to running poorly and after new, new part ran perfectly.
Window switch should only be about $100, how did it cost three times that?

Clint
I don't know why it was so expensive but 3 Nissan dealerships quoted me $280-$290-$300. Looks like ebay sells them for $20-$60. I'm in Canada and needed it ASAP so as to not get my truck broken into, and not freeze my ears off on the highway.
 

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When my driver side window failed to go up it was the motor not the switch. And it was intermittent. Did you perform any test to confirm that it was the switch and not the motor (test the motor leads for power while pushing on the switch). How about pull up on the switch, and given the inside door panel a good hard wack right above the speaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When my driver side window failed to go up it was the motor not the switch. And it was intermittent. Did you perform any test to confirm that it was the switch and not the motor (test the motor leads for power while pushing on the switch). How about pull up on the switch, and given the inside door panel a good hard wack right above the speaker.

I took my door apart and tried testing the motor with a multimeter. Im not sure i used the multimeter correctly. Set it on "ohms" and stuck one lead in the motors wiring and other lead to bare metal on the door. When i tried the switch it would go to 0 on both up and down. To me that indicated the switch worked, however with the new switch, the motor went up and down like it was new for about half a day. So Im confused as to whats going on.

I did try the "switch up and hit the door" trick and nothing happened.

My window finally went up one last time, hesitantly.
 

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I can't return it. The parts guy at nissan said I couldn't even test it out. He said you have to pay up front for anything electrical, and absoltely no returns.
Well, "that guy at Nissan" doesn't know the law. If the part is truly defective it can be returned for refund or replacement; see the manager, even the owner, contact Nissan regional, etc., make a fuss. But make sure the part is truly defective.

Doesn't matter if it's a radio, a blender, a ceiling fan, etc. !!! Even new stuff labeled no returns must be able to function in the manner intended, unless clearly labeled "as is".

2 years ago I finally got a refund from GM after they tried in vain to get our 2005 GMC sunroof to close; they replaced its switch several times, would always open, sometimes wouldn't close. GM threw its hands up and said they had "absolutely no idea what was wrong", and I pushed for a refund as I had specified on first visit that I would pay for a repair, and not a guess. GM regional did get involved, dealerships don't like to give back money, they want to take it in. Like on that 1st visit GM dealer tried to charge me $50 hazardous materials disposal fee when they didn't dispose of anything (gave me my "defective" switch - which wasn't - back in the new switch's box); when I questioned that they hurriedly took off that charge.


Honestly, GM dealer was more interested in my future business (then), told me I needed new radiator hoses as mine were original - they weren't, I had replaced them 2 months earlier, had Gates name on them on non-GM worm-type hose clamps; other fishing for business was included as well. I believe they never even opened the hood, did sales try based upon some Carfax !!!
 

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I took my door apart and tried testing the motor with a multimeter. Im not sure i used the multimeter correctly. Set it on "ohms" and stuck one lead in the motors wiring and other lead to bare metal on the door. When i tried the switch it would go to 0 on both up and down. To me that indicated the switch worked, however with the new switch, the motor went up and down like it was new for about half a day. So Im confused as to whats going on.

I did try the "switch up and hit the door" trick and nothing happened.

My window finally went up one last time, hesitantly.
Ohms would test the motor itself. Even those with a lot of experience with electrical stuff will have difficulties testing the motor unit with a multi meter.

Instead you should have used VOLTs to test the switch. There are 3 wires going to the motor unit. One is ground, one is +12 volts up, other is +12v down. Hook up the meter to the ground and the up. Hit the switch. Do you see 12 volts on the volt meter display. Try down just in case you hooked it up to the wrong set of wires. Do this for the other wire. If you see 12 volts, then your switch is good.

I suspect that the window motor was failing. It doesn't completely fail, but will work on and off for a while. You assumed it was the switch bought a new one swapped it in. THe motor worked for a short period of time with the new switch then died.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the instructions ill give it a shot. I only recall seeing 2 wires at the motor though..

In your experience, would a motor show signs of failing prior to dying? It worked as usual up until that point.
 

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In your experience, would a motor show signs of failing prior to dying? It worked as usual up until that point.
My daughter has a '98 Pathfinder, and its driver window motor died, she had that replaced at a local shop. There was no warning in advance.

My 2004 Frontier has the %&^*$#^*(#$&*($ power windows (I bought it in 2011) and I don't like them; I like the manual windows in my '98 Frontier and '88 Mazda B2200 truck !!!
 

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Thanks for the instructions ill give it a shot. I only recall seeing 2 wires at the motor though..

In your experience, would a motor show signs of failing prior to dying? It worked as usual up until that point.
You might be right. only 2 wires: ground and the switch will either send + or - 12 volts for the up and down. I can't remember the details, but I do remember it was an easy test to confirm that the switch was good.

Some say the motor will get slow. Mine just died with the window stuck down after going through a drive through during a winter blizzard. It was stuck that way till someone told me to smack the door, then it worked again. I switched out the motor and regulator soon afterwards.
 

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Ours became irregular in operation, sometimes holding the switch in place would eventually make the window move. It got worse with time, eventually not working at all. Seems odd, but a new motor/actuator was the fix.
 

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My daughter has a '98 Pathfinder, and its driver window motor died, she had that replaced at a local shop. There was no warning in advance.
Now I remember. She was returning up north, the window just wouldn't close. She pulled it up and stuffed something in the sill to keep the window up and the weather out, then had it fixed.

Now, I've had my 2004 Frontier 5 years now. After a year, while cold, the driver window struggled to go up. Rather than buy it Viagra, I got aerosol silicone lube and sprayed the window channels (did not take door panels off for this) and it's been fine since.
 
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