Brake Job
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
Thanks for the quick response!
So I've been reading a lot about how to do it with varying reasons on why/why not and bedding methods. From what I understand the best way to bed the pads and rotors would be:
45MPH to 10 MPH - 3-4 times and don't come to a complete stop
60MPH to 15 MPH - 8-10 times and don't come to a complete stop
Drive without stopping for a few miles to cool the brakes and then you're done.
My concern is finding a road that I'll be able to go through the process enough without stopping to turn around. If this is how the process should go, how important is it to follow it exactly without stopping at lights or adjusting for other cars on the road, etc.?
Joined
·
12,704 Posts
that process doesnt look bad. the pedal pressure is a big thing to keep in mind. the first few should be about 45-50% stop power, the next set of stop power is around 75% for me personally.
after i gain that much heat, i just dont let my rotors come to a complete stop during high heat. after ive driven around for about 5 minutes or so of constant moving i head back to my house.
i do a heavy bed in process for every brake job i do, im trying to be cautious with you because you arent the one doing the work and its no my truck. if it was my truck i would just take it out and rip around for a bit, drive around for a cool off then park for the night.
after i gain that much heat, i just dont let my rotors come to a complete stop during high heat. after ive driven around for about 5 minutes or so of constant moving i head back to my house.
i do a heavy bed in process for every brake job i do, im trying to be cautious with you because you arent the one doing the work and its no my truck. if it was my truck i would just take it out and rip around for a bit, drive around for a cool off then park for the night.
Yea I hear ya. Again I really appreciate the info and quick responses. I could always call the dealership back b/c I forgot to ask if the broke them in yesterday, however this particular dealer has been difficult. I don't really trust them anyway. Is there an easy way to check if they bedded by looking at them? Didn't seem to see a build up of any new brake dust and the rotors still look silver where I've read you can have a bluish tint after bedding. Guess it's more 4Runner until I can find some open road early AM to bed.
Joined
·
12,704 Posts
they easiest way to tell would be to gauge your stopping distance with how much foot power you use.
your last set of brakes although likely toast will have better stopping distance than a set of brand new pads and rotors. within a week of driving at least 20 miles a day they should feel like you are throwing a 1 ton weight on the pedal lol.
im not sure if there is a visual inspection you can do, since i do everything on my own thats never been something ive thought about.
your last set of brakes although likely toast will have better stopping distance than a set of brand new pads and rotors. within a week of driving at least 20 miles a day they should feel like you are throwing a 1 ton weight on the pedal lol.
im not sure if there is a visual inspection you can do, since i do everything on my own thats never been something ive thought about.
OK...I kept the brake bedding process simple and so far so good:
Hit the breaks hard at 45mph to 5 or 10mph. I did this four times. Hard braking could be described as braking for an emergency. The pedal doesn't have to be slammed, but you want to stop as fast as possible.
Then I drove around for about 4-5 minutes to cool them down. Coasted as much as possible to avoid stopping.
Did not come to a complete stop until I parked my truck for the night.
Didn't use the parking brake when I parked.
Hit the breaks hard at 45mph to 5 or 10mph. I did this four times. Hard braking could be described as braking for an emergency. The pedal doesn't have to be slammed, but you want to stop as fast as possible.
Then I drove around for about 4-5 minutes to cool them down. Coasted as much as possible to avoid stopping.
Did not come to a complete stop until I parked my truck for the night.
Didn't use the parking brake when I parked.
Joined
·
305 Posts
I have done it both ways. I always "bed in" my performance cars, but the Frontier, I just drove it and it's fine.
Joined
·
8,191 Posts
This is typically what I do. Maybe a little higher top speed.
I find this to be too aggressive and will smoke your brakes. I feel that doing so is more detrimental then beneficial.
Joined
·
47 Posts
Lots of good advice.
I have done the fronts twice and the rears once on my Frontier in 85k miles. I tow fairly regularly and it is my first automatic transmission in a truck, ever. No compression braking, sadly, to smooth the transition. I like to have the Nissan shop manual at hand and watch a couple youtube videos on the process. You can always learn something new. Not sure if it was for the Frontier or my wife's sedan that the DIY youtuber was wearing a clown wig whilst changing brake pads. You just can't find that sort of entertainment everywhere.
Fronts
1. Replaced pads and rotors with best OEM-ish parts from NAPA, turn factory rotors for future use.
2. Another set of best OEM-ish pads from NAPA, turned factory rotors back on.
NOTE: Caliper pin rubber booties (the ones ON the pins INSIDE the caliper, not the outside ones that keep out dirt) getting soft and a pain to put back in on second go 'round. Next time will replace them, too.
Rears
Replaced pads & rotors with best OEM-ish NAPA parts. Caliper pin booties again were overly soft and a pain to re-insert. Will replace next time.
If I have the time, I also like to replace the outside bootie deals.
C-Clamp vs Dedicated Tool Kit.
I'm a C-clamp man going way back. Like another poster wrote, use an old pad to get even pressure. Then my wife's sedan had the screw-pistons and I bought a 6-sided dice-like thingy that fits on the end of a 3/8" socket extension. It has different patterns I think on each face of the dice. So, I use the special tool when it is absolutely necessary. I am the last guy to criticize someone for buying yet another tool. You may have more tools than you can use in any given moment, but you can't have too many tools.
Forgot to mention that I do a mild bedding. The routine posted is about 2x to 3x more than i do. Maybe more a test to make sure things are working, but has mild bedding side effects.
I have done the fronts twice and the rears once on my Frontier in 85k miles. I tow fairly regularly and it is my first automatic transmission in a truck, ever. No compression braking, sadly, to smooth the transition. I like to have the Nissan shop manual at hand and watch a couple youtube videos on the process. You can always learn something new. Not sure if it was for the Frontier or my wife's sedan that the DIY youtuber was wearing a clown wig whilst changing brake pads. You just can't find that sort of entertainment everywhere.
Fronts
1. Replaced pads and rotors with best OEM-ish parts from NAPA, turn factory rotors for future use.
2. Another set of best OEM-ish pads from NAPA, turned factory rotors back on.
NOTE: Caliper pin rubber booties (the ones ON the pins INSIDE the caliper, not the outside ones that keep out dirt) getting soft and a pain to put back in on second go 'round. Next time will replace them, too.
Rears
Replaced pads & rotors with best OEM-ish NAPA parts. Caliper pin booties again were overly soft and a pain to re-insert. Will replace next time.
If I have the time, I also like to replace the outside bootie deals.
C-Clamp vs Dedicated Tool Kit.
I'm a C-clamp man going way back. Like another poster wrote, use an old pad to get even pressure. Then my wife's sedan had the screw-pistons and I bought a 6-sided dice-like thingy that fits on the end of a 3/8" socket extension. It has different patterns I think on each face of the dice. So, I use the special tool when it is absolutely necessary. I am the last guy to criticize someone for buying yet another tool. You may have more tools than you can use in any given moment, but you can't have too many tools.
Forgot to mention that I do a mild bedding. The routine posted is about 2x to 3x more than i do. Maybe more a test to make sure things are working, but has mild bedding side effects.
Joined
·
305 Posts
Your brake SHOULD be smoking when your done. You should be able to smell it in the cab. If you don't you are wasting your time.
I didn't notice any smoke because I was obviously driving, but the 4 stops from 45-50 to almost a complete stop made it possible to smell the brakes heating up.
Joined
·
305 Posts
Gee thanks.:smartass:
Joined
·
8,749 Posts
The 2-piston brake question is simple: when it's time to push the pistons back in, use one of the old brake pads and stick it back in the caliper. Then you can use a pad spreader, c-clamp, or whatever your tool choice is to push on the old brake pad, which will in turn push both pistons back at the same time. This is how I've done 2-piston brakes for years with a single pad spreader like this:
![]()
Thank you so much for this. Exactly what I was hoping to find.I'm assuming you are very new at this and tried to list out the things that the "how to" manuals didn't necessarily mention when I did this for the first time. I hate learning things the hard way.
Brakes are pretty straightforward on these trucks though. The hardest part is usually trying to wrestle the new pads into the side clips.
Joined
·
301 Posts
I have not read through this entire thread but here are a few tricks I've picked up doing brakes on many different types of vehicles.
Suck the dirty old fluid out of the brake reservoir and pour in New fluid first thing. Check the level as you pump up the system after the brakes are done.
Open the bleeder on the caliper to push back the piston. You might be able to use your hands. You do not want to back pressure the system.
Note where the "cricket" is placed when you remove the old pads. One of the pads will have a thin metal piece that contacts the rotor when the pads are worn giving an audible indication.
Suck the dirty old fluid out of the brake reservoir and pour in New fluid first thing. Check the level as you pump up the system after the brakes are done.
Open the bleeder on the caliper to push back the piston. You might be able to use your hands. You do not want to back pressure the system.
Note where the "cricket" is placed when you remove the old pads. One of the pads will have a thin metal piece that contacts the rotor when the pads are worn giving an audible indication.
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
