[AndysLog]

since no one has mentioned bedding the pads. read the directions and bed your pads.

just as well, pick up some tubing and a boxed wrench to crack open your lines and drain the shitty fluid as you walk the caliper back.
i have this kit and its worked on everything from a frontier to a raptor to a silradooooo. and its cheap and much easier and a smoother motion



i would for sure tq ya bolts down. i was a dummy and on my last brake job one of my rear caliper bolts came loose and it was ****ing with my pedal really bad. it was going to the floor almost and barely stopping.
new bolt in and tqed to spec and the thing stops in the middle of ferguson MO without worries.

good luck, and go slow. its not a race.

 

[AndysLog]

im not saying c clamps dont work.
playing kickball with a baseball can happen, but i bet you have a better time with a kickball.

apply tension to the piston on the lower piston in relation to the bleed screw. Crack the line and push back, close the line and move on to the other piston.

idk on the two pots, never done them.

 

[AndysLog]

well if you have never used one before you cant really comment on what its like. you can only speculate.

so i dont think you are up to the task of labeling analogies for comparisons when you only have one side of the comparison....
c clamps will work on some calipers for sure, but some you have to turn back to the base. thats something a clamp cant do, hence a specific tool that works better than something that clamps.
but also works better than clamps, but hey keep your clamps what do i know, im only the only guy so far thats used the tool you are commenting about lol....

 

[AndysLog]

 

[AndysLog]

i would still think you would need to do some type of bed process with them. otherwise you wont have a proper surface transfer.

 

[AndysLog]

that process doesnt look bad. the pedal pressure is a big thing to keep in mind. the first few should be about 45-50% stop power, the next set of stop power is around 75% for me personally.

after i gain that much heat, i just dont let my rotors come to a complete stop during high heat. after ive driven around for about 5 minutes or so of constant moving i head back to my house.
i do a heavy bed in process for every brake job i do, im trying to be cautious with you because you arent the one doing the work and its no my truck. if it was my truck i would just take it out and rip around for a bit, drive around for a cool off then park for the night.

 

[AndysLog]

they easiest way to tell would be to gauge your stopping distance with how much foot power you use.
your last set of brakes although likely toast will have better stopping distance than a set of brand new pads and rotors. within a week of driving at least 20 miles a day they should feel like you are throwing a 1 ton weight on the pedal lol.

im not sure if there is a visual inspection you can do, since i do everything on my own thats never been something ive thought about.