I can't help you, but I'll give this thread a bump.

 

Hey Everyone,

I am coming up on my 30k mark and I am getting everything set so I can do its 30k service.

Right now I am looking at a brake fluid flush. I have searched CF to find a DIY and nobody has done one. There are posts relating to bleeding your brakes and flushing them but there is not a definitive post stating exactly what was used and how it was done.

This is the main thread that talked about a brake fluid flush: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/brake-fluid-flush-31064/

In this thread Zero_Six_LE mentioned using a vacuum pump and Brutal mentioned using a pressurized fluid pump.

This is a repost of the links from Zero_Six_LE if you don't want to click the link above:



I have also referenced the FSM about brake bleeding and flushing:

1. Connect a vinyl tube to each bleed valve.
2. Depress brake pedal, loosen each bleed valve, and gradually
remove brake fluid.
3. Make sure there is no foreign material in reservoir tank, and refill
with new brake fluid.
4. Rest foot on brake pedal. Loosen bleed valve. Slowly depress
pedal until it stops. Tighten bleed valve. Release brake pedal.
Repeat this process a few times, then pause to add new brake
fluid to master cylinder. Continue until new brake fluid flows out.
Bleed air from brake system. Refer to BR-10, "Bleeding Brake
System" .

After all of these opinions and also the "gravity bleed" method I think I am leaning towards the Brutal method of using a pressurized vessel and forcing new brake fluid into the system as the old fluid is forced out.

I talked to a couple of guys at work and then search on google and I am thinking about using one of these systems:

View Brake Bleeders \\ Brake Bleeders at http://www.apexperformance.net

After reading the "How-To" on its site it appears to be my best solution. Right now I am having a delima thou. It does not list a specific Nissan application but under Motive Products Application Guide Support Application Guide it states that an 1107 or 1101 adapter would fit a 99+ Frontier or basically almost all new Nissan vehicles.

I then cross-referenced this PN and it showed as Ford 3-Prong adapter Motive Products Shopping Cart

Now, my question for everyone is: Do you believe this would work on a 2nd gen Frontier, does a Ford resivor cap fit a Frontier?

If it does, I am probably going to order this one from ApexPerformance: View the Custom Ford Power Bleeder-Model 0106 or 0107 at http://www.apexperformance.net and make sure I get the 3-prong and not the 2-prong.

So, does anyone have any other input on this subject? If you have used this type of system, what unit have you used?

P.S. They also offer a universal unit but I would rather buy a specific one then a universal. I figure the specific would seat better and will leave less room for user error.

Side Note: Mods, I have placed this in the DIY section and not the General section because I figure this is a DIY thing (atleast in my case). If it needs to be moved, then please do so.

So, almost 12hrs later and 19 views but zero responses. Does this mean that basically everyone just has a shop bleed/flush their brakes for them or what?

Don't know about the parts above, but why do you want to bleed them @ 30K?
My bro. works at GM dealer and they report more problems with abs systems that are flushed than those that just run them. I've never flushed one except for very infrequent repair on a used truck one time. I didn't buy it new. I keep vehicles min 10 years.

 

I guess that GM vehicles are just different and they break down before they finish their life expectency. If you don't know, brake fluid is hydroscopic (sp?) and it basically attracts water. The water will lower its boiling point and makes it less effective. I just don't want to be hauling something and hit the brakes because a moron infront of me did something stupid and I can't stop.

I am also planning on sucking out whatever old fluid in the MC but not below the low line so this is not sucked through the ABS system. Also, I am going to disconnect the battery so the ABS doesn't get confused or anything.

P.S. I am going to have to do this anyway when I do SS brake lines.

Just saw a short thing on Horsepower TV where they featured the Matco brake bleeder. looked pretty cool.

I am going to have to check this out. I am just afraid that the Matco one is going to be more then what I want to spend since I am using this for personal use and not for use in an auto garage.

I've done it using the peddle method many times. Takes time but it works fine. ( Put the end of the hose coming off teh bleeder into a jar so you can watch for bubbles. ) I've also pulled a vacum from the bleeder fitting. The hand pump tool is only $6-$10 or so and it works well. ( Heck, you can make your own out of a shop vac and a pickle jar.) I believe pulling a vacum is going to be easier and less likely to cause bubbles than trying to artificially pressureize the entire system. The key in all methods is to make sure your resivior stays FULL or you'll do more harm than good.

My issue with the peddle method is that it takes 2 people and up to 3 if you have someone on the MC making sure it doesn't drop too low. I am looking to do this by myself.

I have thought about the vacuum method but I am not convienced that this is going to be better then the pressure set-up. I figure that with the pressure system, I can pressurize it up to 10 psi and it will let me know if there is any leaks. Then I can take it to 15 psi and start the bleeding. I just have to make sure I put enough new fluid in the vessel.

In the end, I just want the most dummy proof method where I don't have to rely on someone else not screwing up.

 

Just saw a short thing on Horsepower TV where they featured the Matco brake bleeder. looked pretty cool.

 

One of them they've been hawking connects to the bleeder outlet and *pushes* the old fluid out and up into the main fluid reservior. The notion is that bubbles rise, but so will all of the crap in the old fluid. I dunno. I'd rather use the traditional approach and pull the new fluid through and see the nasty stuff exit at the wheel.

For newbies, be advised that brake fluid is excellent paint stripper -- be careful.

 

I've done it using the peddle method many times. Takes time but it works fine. ( Put the end of the hose coming off teh bleeder into a jar so you can watch for bubbles. ) I've also pulled a vacum from the bleeder fitting. The hand pump tool is only $6-$10 or so and it works well. ( Heck, you can make your own out of a shop vac and a pickle jar.) I believe pulling a vacum is going to be easier and less likely to cause bubbles than trying to artificially pressureize the entire system. The key in all methods is to make sure your resivior stays FULL or you'll do more harm than good.

 

I'd like to have a pressurized bleeder. Since I don't have one I use my MityVac vacuum pump. It works well but is slow. There is way less possibility of causing damage by replacing the brake fluid versus leaving it in the system forever.

We have some GM trucks where I work that have all kinds of brake problems from not replacing the fluid. It's not included in the maintenance schedule so it only gets done when we replace master cylinders and such. The pressure bleed is the best method to use if you can find the right master cylinder adapter for it. I don't even have 30,000 miles on my truck yet but I have owned it over 2 years. Maybe you can be the first to do a writeup Dubie.

 

Funny this should come up now as I'm just getting ready to flush my 06. A bit less than 30,000.

I have the Motive bleeder and instead of using the caps that came with it, I made one for each model car I was going to flush. Fords, GMs, and Nissans, basically the same. Find a cap to the master cyl. at a parts store, dealer, junkyard. Drill a hole in the center approx. 1/2". In this hole you will thread a brass fitting with 3/8" male pipe threads on one end, and 1/8" hose barb on the other. This is available at any hardware store. About a buck. JB Weld the threaded end in the cap. This cap will only be used for flushing. Clamp a 3 foot piece of hose on it and the other end gets a fitting that the pressure bleeder takes. A new gasket and you're in business. Disconnect negative battery cable first so as not to take a chance on harming anything in the ABS with pressure.

No leaks and they have always worked perfectly. Not so with universal type caps. Does take a few minutes to make and then let the JB Weld dry. I ended up making my own as all others I tried, leaked. If you want it right............

We used to do gravity bleeds. Take off the cap and open a bleed screw and let gravity do it for you. Was slow, but it worked. Not sure if it will work on very late model vehicles.

Hope this was clear enough and that it helps. Sorry, I have no way of showing pictures.

 

This is awesome news. I didn't think about making my own but I guess I can. I figure that I can get the Ford one and see if it works. If it doesn't, I can make a custom one like you have.

Since you have experience with the Motive Bleeder do you recommend it to others or is there another one that you wish you had that is within the same price range?

 

It has been fine for me. The only problem I had was the caps not sealing well. They were universal caps and I prefer the one that fits well. No leaking. I don't remember what I paid, but I believe it was less than $100.

They were also very prompt in sending it and seemed to be good folks to deal with. I've had mine for several years. Just clean it out well after you use it if it won't be used for a while.

I hope my description was clear enough. It probably took me longer to type it up than it would have to make it.

 

Thanks sir. I guess I will also order a new cap and make a custom one to make sure I don't get any leaks.

I figure for the price of having a shop flush the fluid, I can buy everthing I need myself and do the work myself and it will equal out. Then if I do a flush again down the line, I will actually be saving money.

Also, did you order it through Apex Performance or directly from Motive?

 

I'm sorry there sir, I don't remember where I ordered it from. I want to say Motive but just don't remember.

It really will be easy when you start making the adapter cap and actually start the flushing procedure.

You are very welcome sir and I do hope it helped.

I've read lots of good info on here and am glad to be able to give some back.

 

So Everyone,

I have done some more research and it appears that our 350Z/g35 friends also recommend the Motive Power Bleeder.

These are a couple of links from my350z.com

Speed Bleeders - MY350Z.COM Forums
The "Make it Stop" Sale - Rotors/Pads/Bleeders/Lines - MY350Z.COM Forums
DIY 350Z Track, Rotor and Pad Install, and System Bleed. - MY350Z.COM Forums
Brake Bleeding - MY350Z.COM Forums

Basically the concensus is that the model # 0107 works on the 350z/g35 and from the application guide, it appears it also fits the Frontier.

I guess now I am going to just search for the best price from a repuible (sp?) company and place my order.

Also, just as a precaution that it might now seat perfect, I will also order a replacement OEM MC cap so that I can make a custom adapter if needed.

 

i prefer the vaccum bleeding , but i have a vaccum pump from work that i rigged up to make it work , these trucks are a pain in the butt to bleed by the pedal method

 

anyone tried this Edelbrock.com - Speed Bleeders

 

I wanted to try some but I don't know what size fits. :comphead:

 

hmm... I am going to have to call speedbleeders and see if they fit our trucks... I desperately need to change my fluid. I have 51k miles and a VERY spongy break pedal!
I have been putting it off because I don't have anyone who can help me. this seems like an easy solution!

And yes... if you look on their site, there is an internal screw that you loosen to bleed them.

 

if the speed bleeder fits, then i'm probably going with that too. i

 

Well, I have done some more research on the Speed Bleeders and I think they are going in the "no" box for me. I have read a couple of threads where it was mentioned that if you unscrew them to the full 1/2 turn, after a couple of bleeds, they begin to leak. You then have to buy more of their threads sealent and reseal the bleeders. I just don't want to have to worry about leaking fluid because the seal wasn't good anymore.

This is a thread on another forum in which talks about the thread sealent issue: Speed Bleeders for Evo X - evolutionm.net

This is another one: Problem with speed bleeders - Corvette Forum

After all of this, I think I am tending towards the Motive Power Bleeder once again.

 

Well I went ahead and ordered speed bleeders. I don't think I'll have to worry about the problem stated above because I will only be bleeding them every 30k+ miles. If after 3 times I need to put a little sealer on the threads, that is no big deal.

I asked what part number would fit our trucks and they said SB1010, so I went ahead and ordered them. I will let you guys know how it works out when I get them.

 

^^sounds good. those evo guys bleed their brakes every week, lol...

where'd you get if from and how much were they?

 

^^sounds good. those evo guys bleed their brakes every week, lol...

Yea, you have a point, they race so they bleed it more often so in the end, the Frontier probably won't see as many cycles as the Evo does.

Side Note: I am going to wait till Friday or so to order the Motive Power Bleeder MP 0107. I am out of town this weekend so it is useless for me to order it and not be here to pick it up. I guess this also give me more time to try and convience myself to get the speed bleeders instead.

 

The Russell brand (owned by Edelbrock) is the one I saw on the edelbrock site.

Thanks for the link to the jegs site!

 

My brake fluid in my car is dark blue. :wav:

 

That is fine and dandy but what about your Truck, lol.

 

Can we keep this on topic? If you dont change your brake fluid, who cares. This topic is also useful if you swap/extend brake lines, r/r master cylinder, or race every week with the Evo guys...

 

Just an update. I have talked to a couple of guys around work. I asked about the speedbleeders and most talked negatively about them. They stated that the power bleeder system is better since you don't have to keep pumping the pedal and making sure to return and make sure the MC is topped off.

I think my decision is to go with the Power Bleeder since it is almost fool-proof. Just fill, hook up and let it bleed.

The speedbleeders are nice but require another step or two to complete.

 

UPDATE!


I got my speedbleeders on Friday but didn't have a chance to install them until today.
Everything went very smooth, All you need is a 10mm wrench to take out the old bleeders and a 7/16" wrench to install the speedbleeders. It took me 15minutes to install them and that included getting out my toolbox, etc. You do NOT need to jack up the truck or take off the wheels, which surprised me, and this makes things a bunch quicker.

I did a full fluid flush upgrading to Valviline SynPower Full Synthetic brake fluid and it took me exactly an hour (this included installing the speedbleeders) and I used just shy of 2 32oz bottles of fluid. Obviously if you are just bleeding the brakes and not doing a flush you will use much less fluid.

I started out by sucking the old fluid out of the master cylinder being sure not to totally empty it to prevent air from getting in the lines. Then I filled the master cylinder with new fluid. I did the RR first, which took a lot of pumping to clear out the whole line, then the LR with took only about 20pumps or so, then the RF which took about 30pumps, then the LR which took about 15pumps. Every 15pumps or so of the brake pedal I would top off the master cylinder to make sure it never emptied.

It was a super easy process and I would recommend them to anyone. My brakes are definitely firmer now, the pedal doesn't go down near as far as it used to. If I were to do a simply bleeding now with these installed it would take no more than 10mintues, and the best part is I can do it by myself and don't have to find a place to store a pressure tank style bleeding system in my tiny apartment!

 

Thanks for the update. My front and rear bleeder screws are different hex sizes. I believe the rears are smaller than the fronts. I would hope that the hole sizes are the same though. I might get some of those. Did you use a hose to direct your fluid into a container? The service manual lists a different order than you did.


"Bleeding Brake System
CAUTION:
While bleeding, monitor the master cylinder brake fluid level.
1. Turn ignition switch OFF and disconnect ABS actuator and electric unit (control unit) connector or battery
negative cable.
2. Connect a vinyl tube to the rear right bleed valve.
3. Fully depress brake pedal 4 to 5 times.
4. With brake pedal depressed, loosen bleed valve to let the air out, and then tighten it immediately.
5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until no more air comes out.
6. Tighten bleed valve to the specified torque. Refer to BR-22, "Components" (front disc brake), BR-28,
"Components" (rear disc brake).
7. Perform steps 2 to 6 at each wheel, with master cylinder reservoir tank filled at least half way, bleed air
from the front left, rear left, and front right bleed valve, in that order."

 

This is awesome news.

 

Any chance you remember what size tubing you used?

Also, just to confirm, you did not have to remove any tires to bleed/flush the brakes?

 

I dunno, I just grabbed a piece I had and it was a perfect fit. and correct, I did NOT have to remove the tires to bleed/flush

 

I just wanted to update this thread a little.

I flushed the fluid today at ~34.5k in just over a year and a half. I used a total of ~64oz of fluid. I was amazed on how dirty the original fluid was. Overally it took me around 2hrs or so from start to finish including cleaning up.

The best advice I can give to someone else is to take your time. Have a lot of paper towels on hand. Then lastly, make sure your vinyl hose is tight enough and it is cut straight and not at an angle. This will make it a lot easier to prevent any air bubbles from being sucked back into the system when you tighten the bleeder screw.

I believe that I will probably flush the system once a year from now on since I own the Motive Power Bleeder already and fluid is cheap.

Side Note: It is possible to flush the brakes with the wheels on but it is a pain. Also, it is possible to do it without a lift or jack stands or anything, it just takes longer and you have to squeeze into tight places. If you have a suspension lift, you may be alright but if you are stock, I strongly suggest you use ramps/jackstands/lift/etc..., it will let it go quicker and also be a lot easier on your back.

 

I ended up buying a Mityvac bleeder kit from Thetoolwarehouse.net. I should get it on Monday. It will make bleeding much quicker and easier than using my vacuum pump method.

MityVac MV6835 MV6830 and MV6832 Brake Bleeder and Refill Kit