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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks for having me.

I bought my 16 yr old a 98 extended cab 2wd for cheap from a buddy. Cluster is dead needed complete overhaul of front brakes and windshield.
Car ran ok but seemed like timing was off. Had a coolant leak under the intake manifold so we had to take that off and fix. The manifold was cleaned before install.
Son drove for a month the truck started runnning rough and wanting to stall when comming to a stop. Well a week ago truck died and had to be towed home. Code 1320
Distributor i thought and that would explain the bad idle. Replaced distributor plugs and wires still no start. Ended up being the fuel pump.
Now with all the new parts truck still running rough with the idle going up and down. I have cleaned the MAF and am currently getting no codes.
Compression test
160, 170, 160, 172.

Here is a picture of the rotor at TDC. Black mark is #1 wire. You guys think oil pump is a tooth off?
Also notice that the dist. Has to be turned all the way clockwise for it to run.
Thanks for the help I just can't keep throwing parts at this thing.
Also what about the compression results?
 

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I also have a '98 2WD 4-cylinder, 5-speed. Sounds like you did NOT use a timing light to set the timing. Also sounds like you did not isolate the issue first as being spark-related or fuel related, first step of such troubleshooting (use aerosol starting fluid to do that).

I too have replaced the oil pump on mine, tried to stop an oil leak. Unfortunately I had to remove the distributor to line up the oil pump correctly, then install the distributor, and then set timing with a light. Unfortunately, Mrs. Cusser already took that Frontier out this morning so I just can't run outside to see where the distributor bolt is. I can check later today if no one else responds sooner.

My daughter has a '98 Pathfinder (VG33 V-6 engine) and its distributor crapped out so we got an aftermarket one; I actually had to ream out the slot about 1mm so we could get the timing spot on, so not out of the question to be at the end of the slot - it's there for a reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. Ya I jumped ahead of myself with the distributor.
And no I did not use a timing light. I did however try to adjust the old distributor and it was turned all the way clockwise too.
No adjustment smothered her out at all.
Even with the new dist. this thing is not even close to being timed. Usually I can get close by ear/vibration but,
It is way off from the point of a timing light bringing it to the closest degree.

I have not changed the oil pump but, doing some research kind of made me think the oil pump may be off throwing everything out of time.
 

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Just checked; the bolt on my distributor is in the same position in the slot as yours is.

Remember that firing order is 1-3-4-2
 

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It could be the MAF. Nissan, for some reason, the ECU doesn't always detect a poor running MAF. I've experienced this several times with different models of Nissans and just had to go by symptoms and live readings on a scan tool.


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I need to revisit your post about the stoplight switch under the brake pedal on 98 Nissan Frontier 4x4 4 cylinders manual. Our brake lights aren't coming on at all. Although the rest of the lights work fine. Is it still most likely the stoplight switch?

Also in auxilary there is a high pitched buzzing sound for about 5 seconds which sounds like it's coming from between the cab and bed underneath.
 

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Just checked; the bolt on my distributor is in the same position in the slot as yours is.

Remember that firing order is 1-3-4-2
I need to revisit your post Cusser about the stoplight switch under the brake pedal on 98 Nissan Frontier 4x4 4 cylinders manual. Our brake lights aren't coming on at all. Although the rest of the lights work fine. Is it still most likely the stoplight switch?

Also in auxilary there is a high pitched buzzing sound for about 5 seconds which sounds like it's coming from between the cab and bed underneath.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
At one point neither were mine!
I just found a door panel clip that would fit in the hole. Works well.
Hardly ever the switch that is bad, just the pad that stops the switch.
 

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Thanks for replying. Yep well I'm definitely agreeing with you. New brake light switch but where the crap is the rubber grommet. Nowhere to be found. I can depress the switch manually but nothing there to depress it installed. Got a friend who thinks he has some extra grommets that'll work fine. Fingers crossed. Will find out in the morning.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I pulled some grommets off a 99 and they did not work.
Different design.
You need a grommet that will lay flush with the grommet plate so it will stop the plunger on the brake switch.
 
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