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Premium Member
2019 Glacier PRO-4X 5AT
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've decided it's time to keep a log of all the mods I do and some details of how I did them. I bought my truck in March 2020 after my 2005 Ford Ranger gave me the final issue that made me want to get rid of it. Had some buddies with Frontiers, they liked them a lot, so I decided to join the club!

Here's a list of everything so far:

Username: BLtheP
Year: 2019
Make: Nissan
Model: Frontier
Trim: PRO-4X
Color: Glacier White

Generic Mods:
-Smartliner Front Floor Liners & WeatherTech Rear Floor Liners (I chose Smartliner Fronts to replace my WT Fronts because of better dead pedal coverage)
-Covercraft Custom Fit Windshield Shade
-OEM Nissan Hood Guard
-OEM Nissan Tow Hitch w/ U-Haul combo 4 & 7-Way Tow Connector recessed into rear bumper next to plate (spliced to OEM plug harness)
-OEM Nissan Utili-Track Sliding Tool Box
-NAPA/Deka AGM battery
-Custom Made Rear Axle Breather
-Pop & Lock Power Tailgate Lock
-HyperTech In-Line Speedo Calibrator

-Stock 4.0L and 5-Speed Automatic w/M226 & E-Locker

Suspension & Tires:
-Stock Suspension (for now)
-Nismo AXIS Off-Road 17" x 7.5" Alloy Wheels
-General Grabber ATX - 265/70R17 (31.6" x 10.5") - SL 115T Weight Rating

-V8 Pathfinder Brake Upgrade
  • Centric Gold Reman Calipers
  • Raybestos Coated Rotors
  • Centric 106 Series Semi Metallic Pads
  • V8 Pathfinder Factory Splash Shields

-Stock Headlights
-VLEDS 7443 Amber 50-LED Front Turn Signals
-VLEDS 3157CK Red 50-LED Tail Light Bulbs
-VLEDS 3157CK Amber 50-LED Rear Turn Signals
-VLEDS 921 White Backup Light Bulbs
-VLEDS 30MM Interior 5000K Festoon Bulbs
-VLEDS Triton VLR-3 Resistors for Turn Signals (Each resistor counts for two bulbs, so one per side, installed in tail lamp corners)
-Diode Dynamics 921 XPR Red Third Brake Light LED Bulb
-Diode Dynamics 921 XPR White Cargo Light LED Bulb
-Morimoto Frontier License Plate LEDs
-Rigid Industries DOT/SAE Yellow Fog Light Kit for Frontier
-Rigid Industries Flush Mount SR-Q Pro Diffused Backup Light Kit (Recessed into rear bumper between parking sensors)

-OEM Rockford Fosgate Factory Speaker and Amp System
-Kenwood DMX957XR Wired/Wireless CarPlay Head Unit (antenna and factory USB port adapted)
-Kenwood CMOS740HD Backup Camera (mounted in stock location)
-iDatalink Maestro SW (steering wheel interface)

Planned for Future:
-Morimoto XB-Hybrid LED Headlights
-LED Strip Bed Lighting
-Seat Covers
-Muth Mirror Co Heated Amber LED Turn Signal Mirror Glass
-4.10 Axle Gears
-VK56 Engine Swap
-Nismo Cat-back Exhaust Kit
-Nismo 2" Suspension Package
-Nismo Front Bumper

Here are some pictures from the day I brought it home:

Tire Motor vehicle Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle

Tire Wheel Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive exterior

Motor vehicle Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Truck

Motor vehicle Wheel Automotive tail & brake light Automotive tire Automotive exterior

Automotive design Vehicle Grille Automotive exterior Hood

Premium Member
2019 Glacier PRO-4X 5AT
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Floor Liners/Mats

I'm no longer feeling lazy so I suppose I'll go through and make a brief post about each thing I've done over time.

My truck came with no floor mats. The dealer told me if they aren't listed on the sticker, you don't get floor mats. I didn't want OEM floor mats anyways, I wanted liners along the lines of the WeatherTech style of some sort. First thing I did was order a full WT kit when I got home. I ran them for a little while but realized they didn't cover the dead pedal hardly at all. I use the dead pedal all the time and was getting dirt under the driver mat constantly. Kind of defeats the purpose of having them??

After seeing others recommend Smartliner mats on Facebook, I decided to order a front set. I was already happy with the WT rears and nobody really sits back there anyways, so I skipped them. I don't think they make a rear mat for the Rockford Fosgate audio system anyways. I received the fronts, installed them and they were perfect. Fit just as well as WT, yet full dead pedal coverage (and great price! - $80 for the fronts shipped). When anyone asks, I recommend exactly what I have - Smartliner Front mats, and a WT rear mat.

Not an exciting "mod," but a worthy one for sure.

Here are some pictures. The driver's side is no longer pretty, but that's kind of the point. They get dirty/ugly to prevent the underneath from getting dirty/ugly. They do their job well and I have no complaints. Also I removed the stickers because I hate advertising.

Front Driver:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive design Vehicle

Front Passenger:

Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Car Automotive design

Rear Driver:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Car Vehicle Car seat cover

Rear Passenger:

Car Vehicle Automotive design Motor vehicle Car seat cover

Premium Member
2019 Glacier PRO-4X 5AT
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OEM Hood Guard

After a few weeks I noticed a few dents in my hood from road debris. I have never been a fan of hood guards, but I decided installing one was the best decision for me considering my driving conditions. The guard from Nissan fits the truck the best in my opinion, as it follows the design of the hood perfectly. Part number for the Nissan guard is 999D5-XR000.

The install was a pain. Nissan gives you some pretty terrible plastic clips that are designed to clip into the holes, and then when the screw is inserted into the clip, the clip expands and will not come back out of the theory anyways. I dropped at least two clips and screws down in the engine bay, never to be seen again. I had trouble getting the remaining 4 fasteners to work. It was especially tough when you have to do all of this underneath the hood weatherstrip. I eventually ended up buying some screws from home depot that you would receive in a WeatherTech or AVS hood guard kit and fastened it down that way. Been working great for a year now. It did make my hood a bit harder to shut, so I adjusted the rubber knobs under the hood, and I also drop the hood from a bit higher to shut it. Works great.



Premium Member
2019 Glacier PRO-4X 5AT
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
OEM Sliding Toolbox & Bed Extender

Being that I am an old Jeep Wrangler owner, and previously owned an 05 Ford Ranger, I never really had tons of space to keep tools with me. I was stranded by the Ranger a few times and while I don't expect to be with this truck, I sure would love to have the tools with me just in case. I don't need to keep an entire mechanic's workshop with me, but at least a decent ratchet/socket set, as well as some screwdrivers, pliers, and a few others.

I decided the best choice for looks and storage capacity was the OEM sliding toolbox from Nissan. I got a good discount at my local dealer and picked one up. It's huge! Very deep, lots of space, overall great toolbox. I really like that it's built for the Utili-Track and as such, sits down "in" the bed rather than up on top like all the tool boxes that stores sell. The black finish is a nice rugged powdercoat.

I keep tools, coolant, washer fluid, towing stuff, and some other odds and ends in there and still have loads of space to spare.

With the tiny 5 foot bed, and a big toolbox now taking up 20" of space, I decided on the OEM bed extender as well. It does the job. The onyl real downside is it takes up bed space itself, so the bed extender itself actually forces me to extend the bed out any time I want to carry stuff...not the end of the world. It does at least provide a nice enclosed "fenced" area to put groceries and such when I go to the store. Overall I recommend both if one needs storage for tools, and still needs a full bed length as well.


Premium Member
2019 Glacier PRO-4X 5AT
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
LED Turn Signals & Brakes

After a while I decided I wanted to brighten up my signals and brake lights. This did not really go as originally planned. I spent a lot of money buying, trying, and returning different options until I finally settled on the end results. I'm not going to go through all the trials and tribulations, but I will list the brands I tried and what I eventually settled on.

Brands I tried:


Diode Dynamics
VLEDS (I chose these)

Turn Signals:
Lasfit (anti-hyperflash)
Diode Dynamics
Osram Sylvania
GTR Lighting
VLEDS (I chose these)

I ultimately chose VLEDS because they were nice and bright, good color, good distinguishing between high and low for parking and signal (or tail vs brake), and they are good quality. VLEDS has been around for a long time with a good reputation so I trust them. Why I waited so long to try them and tried so many others first, no clue. Wish I would have tried them earlier.

I am not a fan of the "anti-hyperflash" bulbs as sold by Lasfit and many other brands on Amazon. They are a compromise. Some people will never experience the compromises, but they are there. AHF bulbs have a resistor built in which is why they don't cause the vehicle to hyperflash. The resistor is built into the base of the bulb. As many people know, resistors build up heat to waste energy which is what tricks the vehicle BCM into thinking standard incandescent bulbs are installed. This means that Lasfit and other similar style bulbs get very hot. To protect the bulb the Lasfits are programmed to bypass the resistor to stop the buildup of heat. This means that the vehicle senses less load and hyperflashes again (even though the bulbs are anti hyperflash). This is a compromise. Another compromise is how freaking hot the resistors get. They can potentially melt the bulb sockets. Another issue is that in hazard mode, since vehicles don't hyperflash the hazards, this means the bulb has to actually manually cut itself off to prevent overheating. If you leave a vehicle with Lasfit bulbs on hazards for 4-5 minutes, the bulbs will start to cut themselves off and each at their own pace. this means that the bulbs are all turning off and on on their own and it looks like an amber light show. Essentially that is useless for hazards when you actually need them.

The real solution is to install standard LEDs, and just wire in GOOD QUALITY resistors. I don't use the cheap gold pieces of junk. I buy the nice large resistors, sold by VLEDS (listed below). Morimoto also has some that are good too. Just avoid the cheap gold ones, they get super hot and they aren't really any more ideal than Lasfits.

I choose 3 ohm resistors. They count for two bulbs each so you only need one per side. The vehicle doesn't distinguish between front and rear, only left and right. So one 2-bulb 3 ohm resistor installed per side, and it all works perfectly. I installed mine into the tail light corners, spliced into the rear signals, and stuck them to the underside of the bed with the supplied double sided tape. The tape is strong AF, the resistors aren't going anywhere. You can also secure with screws if so desired, but I skipped it.

If you're wondering why my resistor has two connectors on it, it's pretty simple. The resistors come with a twist lock threaded connector for quick disconnecting. This is great if you need to replace a resistor later. I added my own gray plugs beyond that point also, so that I can easily disconnect them my own way. The reason for this is because I can plug in dummy plugs to seal the wiring if I need to. I can't seal up the twist lock connector if I undo it. So now I can disconnect and run incandescent bulbs (and seal the wiring with gray dummy plugs), or I can also disconnect the twist connector to replace the resistor. Best of both worlds.

Side Marker Mod:

I also did a wiring mod to the front side markers to make them blink full brightness with the turn signals, and run at a dimmed brightness when the running lights are on. I do NOT recommend the VLEDS 26-LED ambers for the side marker location unless doing this mod. They are way too bright to be a simple running lamp.

Link to the side marker mod here.

Parts List:
-Front Signals (2) - 7443 High Visibility Ambers
-Rear Signals (2) - 3157/3157CK High Visibility Ambers
-Tail/Brake (2) - 3157/3157CK Reds
-Third Brake Light (1) - 921 High Visibility Red
-Front Side Markers (2) - 168/194 High Visibility Amber - I do not recommend these unless you are doing the turn signal side marker mod! Much too bright for normal running lamp usage.
-Resistors (2) - VLEDS 3-Ohm Tritons - These simulate 2 bulbs each. Install one per vehicle side if installing LED turn signals front & rear. I tapped them into the rear turn signals and used the double sided tape to stick them to the underside of the bed. 8 months later, they have not fallen off and are as secure as the day I stuck them on.

Pics & Vids of all the functions, day & night...

Tail Lamps (day time)

Brake Lamps (day time)

Tail Lamps (night time)

Brake Lamps (night time)

3 Ohm Resistor Mounted to Bed Underside


Premium Member
2019 Glacier PRO-4X 5AT
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·

Premium Member
2019 Glacier PRO-4X 5AT
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Rigid DOT/SAE Fog Lights in Factory Location

After a few months of ownership, I wanted the Rigid fog light kit for Frontiers after a buddy of mine installed it on his. This kit was discontinued and was dwindling by the time I purchased it, but I managed to get one on Amazon before they went completely out of stock. It's not really a special collection of parts. It's two standard white Rigid D-series cube lights with the wide fog pattern (with a sharp cutoff), two brackets to adapt them to the Frontier bumper brackets, two circular cover plates to make them look right in the bumper, and a wiring harness.

I opted to not use the wiring harness, instead I chopped off the factory wiring, made my own connectors, and plugged the lights into my wiring. This way the lights were still fully controlled by my factory multifunction switch on the steering column.

Pics of the results:

They nicely brightened up the road in front of me and looked much better than the factory halogen fogs. Overall, I was happy with them.


Yellow Fogs...

Later on, I grew bored with the white look. I decided I wanted to go yellow instead. I order up the Rigid Yellow Fog Cubes. They're basically identical to what I had before except with a yellow lens. I did try the SS3 Max Fog Lights from Diode Dynamics also. They were bright, but they created really bad static in my radio, and since my automatic headlights leave the lights on a minute after shutdown, the lights were also interfering with my key fob to lock the truck....really irritating and not what you'd expect from a $520 set of lights. I sent those back and chose the Rigids. No regrets at all.

Results of the yellow...IMO, MUCH better looking, and I really like the yellow light at night and in bad weather. Very happy with these lights and they are still on my truck and will stay permanently.



Premium Member
2019 Glacier PRO-4X 5AT
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Rigid SR-Q Pro Back-Up Lights (Recessed into Bumper)

Many people are not happy with the backup lights on their vehicles. I was one of those people. Many people install LED bulbs into the housings, which helps a decent amount, but I wanted more. My solution was the Rigid SR-Q flush mount back-up light kit. They are extremely bright, added great looks to the rear of my truck, and have just been a pleasure to have and use.

The install was not fun. I traced the holes on my bumper after getting them centered between the sonar sensors horizontally, as well as lined up vertically. The sensors are not all at the same height (insides are higher than outsides) so I split the difference and mounted the lights halfway between the sensors vertically.

The kit came with a 3 way switch and wiring. The switch's position are: "on", "off", and "auto". Auto is tapped into the reverse circuit. When the vehicle is put into reverse, lights come on, as long as the switch is flipped to auto. In off mode, the lights will never come on. When you flip the switch to the other side (on), the lights will turn on until you flip the switch back to off or auto. I personally keep my switch set to auto and tied it up in the dash. I eventually will mount it to a flip switch and put it on a panel, but I haven't quite figured out how and when I want to do that yet, so for now it stays on auto and has been that way nearly a year.

Overall I really love these lights and have got some compliments on them. they are not cheap at $380 for the set, but so worth it to me. They are bright to the poor folks behind me in parking lots, but I figure you're in reverse for such a short amount of time that it really doesn't matter that I leave them to automatically turn on every time I back up.

Finished Install


Back-up Camera View






View in Action


Premium Member
2019 Glacier PRO-4X 5AT
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Recessing the Trailer Connector (and Upgrading Connectors)

I, like most, hated the factory trailer plug location. A trailer plug should not hang down below the hitch. It is just begging to be hit if the vehicle ever goes off-road. Nissan's solution to this is to simply not sell PRO-4X trims without hitches. That's dumb, because many people want a PRO-4X and still want to I did like many others do and recessed the plug into the bumper.

However, I chose to ditch the factory plug and go with a combo 4-way & 7-way connector from U-Haul. When I tow, I almost always need the 4-way and not 7. OEM is 7-way only, so I had to use an adapter. Not a big deal but nice to get rid of if possible. The U-haul connector was universal, so I had to wire it up myself. I used my factory harness, chopped off the old factory plug, terminated the wires to a Deutsch 8 pin plug, and plugged it into my U-Haul connector (which I also terminated to an 8 pin).

The colors were as follows:

U-Haul Black to Nissan Light Blue (12V Charge Wire)
U-Haul Light Blue to Nissan Red (Trailer Brake)
U-Haul White to Nissan White (Ground)
U-Haul Yellow to Nissan Yellow (Left Turn/Brake)
U-Haul Green to Nissan Green (Right Turn/Brake)
U-Haul Purple to Nissan Black (Backup Lights)
U-Haul Brown to Nissan Brown (Tail/Running Lamps)

The only other thing I had to do was use a 2" hole saw and then drill the 4 screw holes. Easy.

I also removed the factory hitch, ground off the old connector bracket, painted the old area where the bracket was, and bolted it back up. Results are SO much cleaner, I love having the plug in the bumper. It makes more sense and also looks much better.



Premium Member
2019 Glacier PRO-4X 5AT
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This thread is not really in order at all. Since I'm having to go back and grab pics of stuff, some things get posted before others, etc. Anyways....

Interior Dome LEDs
One of the first things I did when I bought my truck was ordered some Philips DE3175WLED Dome LEDs from RockAuto. They were objectively better than the stock incandescents at least, which were so dim I could barely see anything in the cab at night when they were on. I thought they were too bright though, and too blue.

Next, I tried Diode Dynamics. I ordered the 130 lumen bulbs in the warm white option. They were actually really nice. I like the warm color, and their brightness was decent.

Later when I swapped all my turn signals to VLEDS, naturally I had to try out their dome bulbs too. For those the options are 5000K, 5500K, or 6000K. I chose 5000K since it's basically a pure white. 6000K is what the Philips bulbs were and they were nearly blue...uncomfortably harsh to look at, especially at night. 5500K is middle ground but I wanted warmer so it made sense to go 5K which are basically white. No yellow and no blue at all. Overall I was happiest with the VLEDS. I like the warm color of the DD's better, but the color temp of the VLEDS was more usable, and they weren't too bright at all. I kept the DD's just in case I ever need them or wanted to switch back. So far, 6 months later the VLEDS are still in place.

The pictures don't really do them justice but at least illustrate that the light is very usable while not being overbearing. Perfect for a dome LED IMO.

VLEDS White Dome Lights



Premium Member
2019 Glacier PRO-4X 5AT
296 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Power Tailgate Lock

After getting tired of keeping the tailgate locked with a key and having to unlock it manually for use, I decided to get the Pop & Lock Power Tailgate Lock.
It is a very simple hookup, only two wires, lock power signal and unlock power signal. It grounds through the mount so there is no third wire.

The installation took me a while only because I wanted to run the wiring nice and clean, and tying it into the wiring in the B pillar took some time. I tied the wiring to the existing backup camera wiring inside the tailgate, and then fished it through the loom running from the tailgate to the bed. I then ran it along the frame, zip tying it to keep it nice and secure, and then ran it up into the floor and into the B pillar.

A year later it works great. The power lock also has a secondary, unthought of benefit. It's somewhat loud, which helps me hear if the truck actually unlocked or not (assuming I didn't see the turn signals blink).

Overall I am happy with the Pop & Lock. It always works, install is simple but time consuming, and for $100 I'd say it is worth it for sure.




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