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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This might be helpful.

I'm not sure about the lower bushing. It is shown on Nissan's diagram here, but I'm not clear on whether it is necessary to install it with the Bilstein. I'll update the diagram if I'm told it is not.

When I get a chance, I'll add links to aftermarket replacements for the OEM parts.




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Put my adj. Bilstein on yesterday and it only had one rubber bushing. The one on the top plate. Anyone else only have one?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Assuming that the rubber bushing came off the stock strut (because Bilstein is super nice and doesn't include a bushing kit), then yes that's fine.

The reason that I put 2 bushings on the diagram is because Nissan's own diagrams of the stock struts show 2 bushings. Other companies such as Rancho include 2 bushings per strut kit. I called up Rancho and they were nice enough to provide me a bushing kit so I used 2 bushings per strut since I had them. Nevertheless, I'm sure that 1 is just fine.
 

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Yea just making sure I wasn't missing somin n yea it would've been nice to use a new bushing. But they did give me instructions that were worthless. Thanks for the diagram
 

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Discussion Starter #7
1. Don't know about the 4600s.
2. I wondered that as well; I assume, though, that its purpose is to help keep the bushing centered. I suspect it isn't crucial.
 

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I'm ordering 4600's all around and I assume they won't have bushings either. Guess I'll order the bushing now since the 10 year old ones on my ride are likely shot. Should probably order new isolators as well.
 

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I need help. Sometimes I wonder why I try to fix thing myself.

I was following the front shock replacement guide here and ran into some snags. First off I'm unable to get 2 of the 3 shock mount bolts loosened. The front one loosened easy enough but the other 2 are frozen and want to strip when I try to remove them. I've hit them several times with penitrating oil.

The bigger problem though is that I went to remove the ball joint from the upper control arm using a pitman puller. It broke free easily enough but now the entire bolt assembly is spinning. I can not remove the nut without the moth part of the control arm moving. I hate to try grabbing it with vise grips as I don't want to Mar it up.

What can I do now?
 

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Probably answered or finished your project but yes... one bushing is OK. Just finished installing mine yesterday and what a difference! :)
 

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You only need one strut bushing.

I only had one bushing - the upper bushing. I have no idea why the Nissan diagram has two, or why the original post has two separate one's listed.

The only reasonable explanation I can come up with is that the Isolator has a rubber mound that is the shape of the lower bushing that the diagram shows, but it sure isn't a separate part; it's molded into the isolator. At least this is so in my 2010 2.5L Frontier.


The arrogant dude who wrote the Bilstein Instructions included in the box with the 5100 strut should get crotch rot.. The diagram is so misleading; the washer included with the 5100 strut can easily be understood as a replacement washer for the existing one. It's not clarified the it is an additional part, and that both washers are necessary. Goodness, I just installed them twice because of that fact alone. pox on that dude
 

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I need help. Sometimes I wonder why I try to fix thing myself.

I was following the front shock replacement guide here and ran into some snags. First off I'm unable to get 2 of the 3 shock mount bolts loosened. The front one loosened easy enough but the other 2 are frozen and want to strip when I try to remove them. I've hit them several times with penitrating oil.

The bigger problem though is that I went to remove the ball joint from the upper control arm using a pitman puller. It broke free easily enough but now the entire bolt assembly is spinning. I can not remove the nut without the moth part of the control arm moving. I hate to try grabbing it with vise grips as I don't want to Mar it up.

What can I do now?
Got a link to that install guide?
I'm assuming you need a spring compressor right?
 

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I just installed mine in my 2009 Suzuki Equator and used the one washer as replacement for the stock and it pushed up through the upper shock mount and now have to go rent the bloody spring compressor again to remedy the problem. It was fine for the first few days of road driving but the moment I took it down s dirt road I felt a pop and the ride quality instantly changed. I sure wish I seen this post pre install. But thank u it's at least confirmed what I thought was the issue. Funny enough I re-used the stock washer on the first one by accident and it's holding up just fine...
 

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Ok I was getting a clunk when I turn right and only on the driver's side. I think mine was assembled 99% correct - except I think the top washer is upside down. Thoughts? I'm working on getting it out now and then I'll flip and tighten the top nut down.
 

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Ok I was getting a clunk when I turn right and only on the driver's side. I think mine was assembled 99% correct - except I think the top washer is upside down. Thoughts? I'm working on getting it out now and then I'll flip and tighten the top nut down.
That washer is upside down but it shouldn't make a difference if it was flipped the right way.

What is going on with this picture. Is the shock still mounted. Is the spring still in place.
 

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That washer is upside down but it shouldn't make a difference if it was flipped the right way.

What is going on with this picture. Is the shock still mounted. Is the spring still in place.
Yes, I used my jack on the LCA and the top 3 bolts to compress the strut so I could take the top nut off and inspect how these were assembled. I still don't understand the clunk because its on when I turn to the right. Doesn't make any sounds on speed bumps or potholes.
 

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Yes, I used my jack on the LCA and the top 3 bolts to compress the strut so I could take the top nut off and inspect how these were assembled. I still don't understand the clunk because its on when I turn to the right. Doesn't make any sounds on speed bumps or potholes.
The clunk is probably not related to the shock. THe main thing is that you have the boot collar, then the lower washer, rubber pad, top hat, bushing with steel sleeve, the top washer, then the top nut. Cranked the top nut down till it sits in the metal sleeve (you can feel this). Then your good.
 

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The clunk is probably not related to the shock. THe main thing is that you have the boot collar, then the lower washer, rubber pad, top hat, bushing with steel sleeve, the top washer, then the top nut. Cranked the top nut down till it sits in the metal sleeve (you can feel this). Then your good.

Ok that's what I figured as well so I'll keep tightening that and then look at anything else related to the clunk (didn't make the noise before this).
 
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