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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Where is the best location for connecting the ground inside the dash?

I installed a JVC Arsenal KD-AHD69 with the JVC XM Direct2 receiver. Reading reviews about engine/alternator noise with the XM unit, I was careful to twist together the receiver and XM ground wires, and bolted them to the unused hole in the bare metal on the right hand side, next to where the main dash piece is bolted to the metal frame (don't have any pictures, sorry). Not sure why the hole is there, but since it is the same piece of metal to which the dash is bolted, I figured it was as good of a place as any for grounding. However, I still get a very bad engine whine when I use the XM. I'm thinking about getting a power filter, but if there is a better spot for ground than what I am using, I'd like to try that.

Edit: Forgot to mention, it is 2010 Pro-4X.
 

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did you clear off all the paint so you were making contact with bare metal? if all else fails you can find something bolted to the firewall and run a ground from there to the same bolt for a better ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It was already bare metal. I may try the firewall idea... I'm basically just hoping to have an idea of a good location before pulling the dash back out, to minimize the number of times I have to do that.
 

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It was already bare metal. I may try the firewall idea... I'm basically just hoping to have an idea of a good location before pulling the dash back out, to minimize the number of times I have to do that.
its never "already bare" surface rust, various coatings, if you want the best possible ground you need to go directly to the body and scuff the surface to bare metal and clean (scuff and clean even if it looks like bare metal) then bolt it down and coat in liquid to seal it if your worried about surface rust there. just bolting to something in the dash means that your ground is only as good as the metal to metal contact the dash makes where bolted down so if you want the best ground you need to go straight to the body/chassis
 

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^^^^ good post.

always ground to the body or truck frame when possible. never ground to the dash brackets.

always scuff the paint off at your ground. coarse grit (40, 60, 80) sandpaper works well and fast. or if you are in a pinch, the sharp end of a flathead screwdriver works too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
While looking for a place on the firewall, I found this ground wire behind the glove box:



I ran a wire there, and I still get the whine (though it MAY be a little better). I then tried running a temporary wire straight to the negative terminal on the battery, but could still hear the whine. If that didn't work, what are the chances wiring it to the chassis will work? I really don't want to start taking off paint (hence increasing rust risk) unless I have to.

Speaking of rust risk, what liquid where you referring to for sealing it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Never heard of that before, thanks.

I tried the chassis too, still no improvement. I guess it's time to look at power filters.

Another question... will it hurt anything for me to leave the ground wire connected to the ground at the passenger airbag (pictured in the earlier post)? I figure they are all the same ground, but being as it is for a safety system, I'm second guessing myself and wondering if I should pull the glovebox out again and disconnect it.
 

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the interior of the truck stays relatively dry. rust shouldnt be an issue.

a ground is a ground. in a well grounded truck, the neg terminal of the battery, the frame, and the body are all acceptable grounds and there should be little resistance between them. as far as tacking a ground onto the airbag equipment, there shouldnt be an issue, but i wouldnt have done it.

hopefully the power filter works for you. im not a fan of them but obviously something is foul in your system. if we were taking bets, i would point fingers at the sirius module. add on units typically arent designed as well as an integrated unit. and if there are lots of reviews that complain of noise then that is also a good indication of a poor design.

i would also double check all the wires you ran for the install. there are a handful of ways to pick up stray noise. you might want to pull the XM antenna out and see how that affects the whine. placement can be key on those things. also make sure you are using a clean power source. im not sure where you tapped in at so im just assuming you piggy backed off something else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I guess I'll disconnect it from the airbag ground to be safe.

The radio is an XM Direct tuner that is controlled by the JVC. I have the power tied to the constant 12V along with the JVC. I did read reviews about whine, but hoped proper grounding would solve that. I didn't want an external radio, so my only choices were the XM Direct or the Pioneer unit, but I'm not fond of the control knob on Pioneer's current radios, so the XM Direct was the only unit that satisfied my needs.

I'll unplug the antenna and see what happens.

I was holding out on the filter as a last resort. I agree that the XM is probably at fault, but don't really feel like replacing it, since the replacement will likely have the same problem. At this point, I don't mind spending $10 to give it a shot.
 

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steel doesn't need to get splashed with water to get surface rust on it as can be noted if you take a look at the supports under the dash, the moist air is enough. the liquid electric tape hold multiple useful qualities. while it protects surfaces like when you have sanded to make a good ground it also helps prevent these grounds from coming loose or when used on power wire connections prevents things that may happen to touch them from causing a short. ie working on your vehicle drop a wrench that touches the batt pos terminal and the body at the same time and instead of your batt shorting to the body nothing happens. give my batt terminals a good coating to prevent corrosion build up on those too. when it dries its almost like a rubber and can be removed easy enough if you need to. we use it on hundreds of electrical connections and bus bars on off shore race boats and swear by the stuff.

as far as your system is going doesn't seem to be a dirty (bad) ground, may be dirty power source. some components are much more sensitive when it comes to power source than others. try a temporary power wire directly on the batt just for testing purposes to see if it gets better
 

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steel doesn't need to get splashed with water to get surface rust on it as can be noted if you take a look at the supports under the dash, the moist air is enough.
true. i can install amps in a vehicle and 5 years later remove them and the sanded ground connection is still secure and rust free. and i would consider coastal mississippi to be a relatively humid place. so different strokes for different folks i guess.
 

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true. i can install amps in a vehicle and 5 years later remove them and the sanded ground connection is still secure and rust free. and i would consider coastal mississippi to be a relatively humid place. so different strokes for different folks i guess.
true that my friend.
 
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