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2018 pro4x Truck is approaching 30k miles.
What transmission fluid should I put in?

Do I need to drain the transfer case yet or wait?

At what mileage do I need to drain the diffs.
 

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2017 Pro-4X w/Luxury Package
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It's all in the Owner's manual.
 

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It's all in the Owner's manual.
For transfer fluid the owner's manual says to inspect it every 20k miles, with this note:

If towing a trailer, using a camper or a car-top, or driving on rough or muddy roads, change (not just inspect) oil at every 20,000 miles (32,000 km) or 24 months.
So under normal conditions it doesn't actually tell you when to change it. Under normal conditions I wouldn't go more than 60k miles between changes. Sooner can't hurt. I'll probably change mine every 30k miles.
 

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Personally, drain the trans pan every 25k and it will stay happy. Use nissan Matic S or look for what smj likes (hopefully he'll reply) for transfer case its Matic D. Also I drain & fill every 25k.
Book says to inspect fluid every 10k & if severe duty replace every 2 yr.

Transfer is more tolerant and its just a lube, and not a power transfer medium. Also no clutches to burn. But its only 2 1/8th qt so no big cost.
Trans you want to keep on top of. Pan drain is 4 to 5 qts but cheaper than a rebuild
 

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Also there is aprocedure to flush the trans completely in the manual
 

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I use Valvoline Maxlife Full-synthetic in may automatic transmission, transfer case and power steering. I do a drain and fill every 60,000 miles. It works for NissanMatic Type "D," "J" and "S" applications.
307844
 

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I used Castrol transmax ATF.. I dropped the transmission coolant line out of the radiator and pumped it into a milk jug 2 to 3 quarts at a time. Then you get up and put the same amount in the top, up down, up down about 5 times. Be careful, don't run the transmission pump dry. I had my wife help me do the start stop, she was not happy.

Good shops have a machine that they hook up to the coolant lines and they drain and back-fill at the same time.

Unless you have been doing some heavy towing I wouldn't worry about tranny fluid at 30k. Transmission fluid is a high grade synthetic oil that works in a clean sealed environment, the only enemy it has is heat...

I did my complete flush at ~84k and then just because I was bored one night I dropped the pan and cleaned it at ~112k. The inside of the pan was clean and shinny. The magnets were clean ! I found a very light gray residue on them ! The screen didn't need changing but it came with the gasket so I put it in.
 

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I used Castrol transmax ATF.. I dropped the transmission coolant line out of the radiator and pumped it into a milk jug 2 to 3 quarts at a time. Then you get up and put the same amount in the top, up down, up down about 5 times. Be careful, don't run the transmission pump dry. I had my wife help me do the start stop, she was not happy.

Good shops have a machine that they hook up to the coolant lines and they drain and back-fill at the same time.

Unless you have been doing some heavy towing I wouldn't worry about tranny fluid at 30k. Transmission fluid is a high grade synthetic oil that works in a clean sealed environment, the only enemy it has is heat...

I did my complete flush at ~84k and then just because I was bored one night I dropped the pan and cleaned it at ~112k. The inside of the pan was clean and shinny. The magnets were clean ! I found a very light gray residue on them ! The screen didn't need changing but it came with the gasket so I put it in.
If you're doing full fluid changes, i agree you dont need to change at 30. But for a pan drain, I stand by it, and advise every 20 for wheelers and towing
 

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I decided on Motul from Europe, but any good grade synthetic's going to be fine. In my overall estimation, at least the first R&R interval is going to be more important than what you put in it, for the most part, because you want all the break-in bits & shavings and whatever else is floating or suspended in there, to get drained out. I used a $9.49 plunger pump from Amazon to do all my swap-outs and it worked great, so much faster, easier and cleaner.

 

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For the diffs and transfer case, I use a cheap, fluid transfer pump. They cost less than $20.
307886
 

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Mine were done by the original owner at about 30k, according to the CarFax report; I did mine again at 69k cause I don't know what he / they put in, so now I know I have some of the best, if Motul is good enough for the Porsche & BMW racing teams, it'll suit. Really though, any good synthetic's fine. I'm going to do mine again at probably about 129k or so. If you wheel hard or trailer a lot, do it sooner, especially the rear diff if towing.
 
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How often do you do the difs?
60,000 miles...sometimes 75,000 miles...depending on busy I am. I don't do any towing or serious off-roading.
 

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Matic S in the transmission every two years. It's cheap from the local dealership.

Castrol Import Vehicle fluid for transfer case. Rated for matic D and do it every two years.

Lucas 85w140 conventional fluid for front and rear diff per East Coast Gear Supply who specialize in differentials.
 

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I'm a long time member at Bobistheoilguy.com. I've always leaned towards sticking with OEM ATF's, but would deviate for differentials. I've always used Mobil 1 in the engine, but all the major brand synthetics are very good these days. Amsoil makes a great ATF as does Mobil and Valvoline. When the time comes, I'll likely stick with the Nissan OE transmission fluid. Not sure about differentials.
 

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Having been a Nissan tech and seeing a relatively new, 2013 350Z have its automatic transmission ruined when the customer had the ATF serviced at a Jiffy Lube that used Dexton III ATF, I had my own reservations about using anything else but NissanMatic "J" ATF (later replaced by "S") in my Pathfinder. The ATF needs to meet the Japanese JASO-A1 spec and Nissan was using Castrol Transmax Import Multi-vehicle ATF as the factory fill. As long as the fluid specs say it is recommended for use in NissanMatic Type "J" or "S" applications, it will work fine in the Jatco RE5R05A transmission used in 2005+ Frontiers and other Nissan vehicles that use this transmission. I have over 350,000 combined miles of use using Valvoline Maxlife Full-synthetic ATF in my 06 and 08 Pathfinders (which use the same transmission) and they both shift and operate like brand-new. If there was going to be a problem using it in these transmissions, they would have showed up by now! An added bonus is now the ATF looks cherry red on the dipstick and when drained; the NissanMatic "J" ATF appears to be almost clear in the dipstick and drains a dark brownish-red color. The first time I drained my ATF I was worried my transmission was toast! The other nice thing about Maxlife is that I can get it on a 1-gallon jug for only $18, which is much cheaper than I can get NissanMatic "S" ATF. Plus, it is also compatible for Type "D," so it's actually better than the OE fluid used in the transfer case as Maxlife is synthetic and Type "D" is only the original Dexron formula (prior to Dexron III), which is not synthetic.
 
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Your gut tells you OE fluid is best, and really you can’t go wrong using it. However, I think the cost of the Nissan fluid is something crazy like $15 a quart. That’s at the point where it’s not just paying more - but getting hosed

I’ve been through this with my BMW - paying crazy high prices for OE fluids. Then I just got tired of paying & switched to aftermarket (but correct) fluids. They cost 1/2 the price or less.

I don’t mind paying more - but I don’t like to get hosed. I used the Castrol import trans fluid in my 01 Pathfinder & will likely use it in my Pro4X.

For oil I use Mobil 1 ES or Castrol synthetic if Walmart doesn’t have the Mobil. Mobil 1 oil filters & will use their differential fluid as well.

Never have a seen or heard of anything failing from using the correct high quality aftermarket fluids. The problem comes in when people use the wrong fluid.
 
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