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Discussion Starter #1
Now that the truck is paid off I was looking at upgrading a few of the parts on it. I was considering something like the ARB bumper with the full grill protection system. Of course that would be heavy. And then there's the Hefty Fabworks aluminum bumper, but that's $500 more. And my question is, would a pre-runner style tube bumper offer the same protection as the Fabworks aluminum bumper?

I live in Colorado and I'm mainly concerned with hitting wildlife (or the occasional bad out of state driver)
 

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hell no it wouldn't! its just a top tube for the bar across the bumper, where as the HF is a solid aluminum bumper.... someone hit a buffalo last year(pics either on here or on their website, maybe instagram) with one of those and actually held up pretty good and truck was not totaled.... if you hit a buffalo with a pre-runner, your truck will be totaled.... im saving up that extra money myself and getting that front alum. bumper when the lease is up and i take over the truck .... just my .02
 

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Properly built, with proper mounting , I would say yes.
If you are familiar with off road racing, there is what they call " nerfing". It is to let the vehicle in front know you want to pass. If they don't move, they will move you.
I was nerfed by a 10 car, a buggy if you will.
I was hit hard, dented my tire rack and my bumper.
It is a common practice and nobody runs a plate bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
hell no it wouldn't! its just a top tube for the bar across the bumper, where as the HF is a solid aluminum bumper.... someone hit a buffalo last year(pics either on here or on their website, maybe instagram) with one of those and actually held up pretty good and truck was not totaled.... if you hit a buffalo with a pre-runner, your truck will be totaled.... im saving up that extra money myself and getting that front alum. bumper when the lease is up and i take over the truck .... just my .02
My issues with heresy like this is I've searched google and these forums and I can't find these pictures. To me it's just a story of "a guy who knows a guy who has a cousin who hit a buffalo once."
 

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My issues with heresy like this is I've searched google and these forums and I can't find these pictures. To me it's just a story of "a guy who knows a guy who has a cousin who hit a buffalo once."
Here is the bison/buffalo bumper thread:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f10/hefty-aluminum-bumper-vs-bison-230385/

Here is my Shrockworks bumper after bashing into the side of a mountain several times (Morrison Jeep Trail Wyoming Qty 28 extremely tight switchbacks).
Only gouged the the powder coating.





I think the ARB bumper looks better and is lighter then the Shrockworks bumper , but if I was to do it again I would try the Heftyfab aluminum.
 

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You have to take your suspension into consideration as well as some of these bumpers weigh a lot more than factory. The aluminum is much lighter yes. I can't speak first hand experience on durability but I do plan on making my own PreRunner style bumpers that will I'm going to beef up as much as possible. I already have suspension set up for the added weight.
 

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Like I said, properly built and mounted.
Roll cages are tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here is the bison/buffalo bumper thread:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f10/hefty-aluminum-bumper-vs-bison-230385/

Here is my Shrockworks bumper after bashing into the side of a mountain several times (Morrison Jeep Trail Wyoming Qty 28 extremely tight switchbacks).
Only gouged the the powder coating.



I think the ARB bumper looks better and is lighter then the Shrockworks bumper , but if I was to do it again I would try the Heftyfab aluminum.
OOooo, thanks for those. The search function on this site sucks. That gives a lot more detail into what I can expect from each.



You have to take your suspension into consideration as well as some of these bumpers weigh a lot more than factory. The aluminum is much lighter yes. I can't speak first hand experience on durability but I do plan on making my own PreRunner style bumpers that will I'm going to beef up as much as possible. I already have suspension set up for the added weight.
How are you upgrading your suspension? I was already planning (and due) for some new shocks, so I was going to get a lift kit with some bilsteins.
 

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OOooo, thanks for those. The search function on this site sucks. That gives a lot more detail into what I can expect from each.

How are you upgrading your suspension? I was already planning (and due) for some new shocks, so I was going to get a lift kit with some bilsteins.
So if you're talking about a wel built pre-runner tube bumper (like Cal-mini or HeftyFab) then it will weigh close to the same as the plate. IIRC Chris (Hefty) commented on FB that his tube winch bumper was close to the same weight as the plate winch bumper.
I've also seen some other folks post up in the Frontier FB page. Insain Fab is one, can't find the ohter that has an inexpensive prerunner style. As to strength, I can't speak.

The HeftyFab Aluminum plate is just shy of 60lbs. Its very light and sturdy. It'll knock down trees (verified). The aluminum parts are pretty durable. I have abused my aluminum skids all year. The engine skid takes the most abuse and still is in shape. I've flattened out the main plate area several times and its still going strong. The gas tank skid has found its limit however. I came down on it pretty good and the front edge is not tied into the side which allowed it to fold upward.
I still maintain the Aluminum parts are HD, but need some minor reinforcing. Currently trying to find someone that is capable/confident of their ability to weld AL to reinforce the remaining pans.
If you are more concerned with weight, they are the way to go. If you are wheeling hard-core, run steel as its easier to put back into shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So if you're talking about a wel built pre-runner tube bumper (like Cal-mini or HeftyFab) then it will weigh close to the same as the plate. IIRC Chris (Hefty) commented on FB that his tube winch bumper was close to the same weight as the plate winch bumper.
I've also seen some other folks post up in the Frontier FB page. Insain Fab is one, can't find the ohter that has an inexpensive prerunner style. As to strength, I can't speak.

The HeftyFab Aluminum plate is just shy of 60lbs. Its very light and sturdy. It'll knock down trees (verified). The aluminum parts are pretty durable. I have abused my aluminum skids all year. The engine skid takes the most abuse and still is in shape. I've flattened out the main plate area several times and its still going strong. The gas tank skid has found its limit however. I came down on it pretty good and the front edge is not tied into the side which allowed it to fold upward.
I still maintain the Aluminum parts are HD, but need some minor reinforcing. Currently trying to find someone that is capable/confident of their ability to weld AL to reinforce the remaining pans.
If you are more concerned with weight, they are the way to go. If you are wheeling hard-core, run steel as its easier to put back into shape.

Aluminum armor skid plates were on the to-do list. I don't do much wheeling, but my list of priorities were:

*New suspension system, including a lift
*New bumper
*Shell for the bed
*Armor
 

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I went with some Nisstec Coilovers that use the Eibach springs and chose the 650lb spring rates over the factory I believe is in the 500lb range for the 4x4 models. I also removed my swaybar in doing this rate. Being mine is an 07 even though with low miles I still ended up replacing both upper and lower control arms as well. Adjustable SPC Uppers and Moog HD Lowers with Camber bolts. I will definitely be posting pictures of when the bumper process begins but it will be a little while as have other things to get done on truck first.
 

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My front bumper has since been changed when I went to glass fenders.
The old one mounts to the where the tow hooks were and to the frame through the fog light holes. It saw a lot of abuse but held up well.
The new one does not have the upper hoop, which reduces the leverage point.
I mentioned that I was nerfed , originally at the time,I had to use the stock bumper per class rules.
I no longer run that class and built this one.
It would take a lot to damage this one.
 

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Aluminum armor skid plates were on the to-do list. I don't do much wheeling, but my list of priorities were:

*New suspension system, including a lift
*New bumper
*Shell for the bed
*Armor
If your wheeling leans more to fire roads and camping/overlanding and you are getting armor more for sticks and pebbles, you might consider OEM skids. They're thin stamped steel, and kinda weak, but they're CHEAP. Except the OEM gas tank skid. For the gas tank, its same cost to get a HeftyFab/Shrock or an OEM stamped steel. I ran my OEM radiator 'skid' for almost 2 yrs. It survived and is still usable. It's not hard-core ready but for abandoned roads (VT/NH has some pretty hard 'roads') it'll manage a fair amount and serves as a feeler gauge while keeping sticks & kicked up rocks away.

For suspension I really like Nisstec's MK84 with a 1" topper. I get close to 3" lift but only manage shy of 2" droop, maybe a bit less. Steve sold me on a stock equivalent springrate and with the AL bumper & winch there's almost no loss in lift or change in driving feel.
On the rear, best feel & capacity is a full leafpack.

My front bumper has since been changed when I went to glass fenders.
The old one mounts to the where the tow hooks were and to the frame through the fog light holes. It saw a lot of abuse but held up well.
The new one does not have the upper hoop, which reduces the leverage point.
I mentioned that I was nerfed , originally at the time,I had to use the stock bumper per class rules.
I no longer run that class and built this one.
It would take a lot to damage this one.
trying to wrap my head around how that first pic mounts to the truck... particularly hte 'upper' mounts

*is it bolted to the oem crash bar?
 

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trying to wrap my head around how that first pic mounts to the truck... particularly hte 'upper' mounts

*is it bolted to the oem crash bar?
Maybe this photo will help.
Yes,the upper mounts bolt through the back of the oem crash bar.
There were steel doublers on either side.
Where it passed through the front bumper(rules required front bumper) they were joined by tube clamps , to be able to be removed.
The lower mount bolted to the mounts for the tow hooks.
 

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Maybe this photo will help.
Yes,the upper mounts bolt through the back of the oem crash bar.
There were steel doublers on either side.
Where it passed through the front bumper(rules required front bumper) they were joined by tube clamps , to be able to be removed.
The lower mount bolted to the mounts for the tow hooks.
WOW.... that thing looks more like a pushbar it's so vertical... always pictured prerunner bumpers more like a ramp than a flat face...
 

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Basically, that is what they are. Used for nerfing.
They are getting smaller and smaller.
 

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Basically, that is what they are. Used for nerfing.
They are getting smaller and smaller.
So Tom Cruise's quote still holds true...
 
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For the bumper and coilovers you need to consider the spring rate of the coilovers.
Cut and pasted from Nisstec's website from here:
3" Radflo Nisstec Extended Travel Kit (05+ Frontier) - Nisstec Lifts: Nissan Lift Kits: XTerra Lift Kits, Frontier Lift Kits, Titan Lift Kits, Nissan Truck Lift Kits

500 lb. springs- Great for 2wd stock front weight Xterra’s and 2wd- 2 door and extra cab Frontier’s. Also work great for a plush ride on 4x4 Xterra’s with no front weight

550 lb. springs- All stock weight 4x4 Xterra’s and Frontier’s. Good for 2wd models with skids, sliders, and tube bumpers.

600 lb. springs- All models with plate front bumpers, lighter 8000lb winch W/syn line, skids, and sliders

650 lb. springs- All models with plate bumpers, all of the above with some extra weight

700 lb. springs- Only for heavy oversized bumpers, heavy 12000 lb. winch W/steel cable, heavy skids, heavy
 

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The only accurate way to determine spring rate needed, is to put it on scales.
Corner weight minus unsprung weight.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
For the bumper and coilovers you need to consider the spring rate of the coilovers.
Cut and pasted from Nisstec's website from here:
3" Radflo Nisstec Extended Travel Kit (05+ Frontier) - Nisstec Lifts: Nissan Lift Kits: XTerra Lift Kits, Frontier Lift Kits, Titan Lift Kits, Nissan Truck Lift Kits

500 lb. springs- Great for 2wd stock front weight Xterra’s and 2wd- 2 door and extra cab Frontier’s. Also work great for a plush ride on 4x4 Xterra’s with no front weight

550 lb. springs- All stock weight 4x4 Xterra’s and Frontier’s. Good for 2wd models with skids, sliders, and tube bumpers.

600 lb. springs- All models with plate front bumpers, lighter 8000lb winch W/syn line, skids, and sliders

650 lb. springs- All models with plate bumpers, all of the above with some extra weight

700 lb. springs- Only for heavy oversized bumpers, heavy 12000 lb. winch W/steel cable, heavy skids, heavy

What's the difference between a LONG travel suspension and EXTENDED travel suspension?
 
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