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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, it was not a good day today.

While on my yearly fishing trip my Frontier decided to not shift in to drive and acted starved for tranny fluid. Now this was odd to me because it's a 2006 with 58000mi. I've never had one hiccup from the truck in 2 years and no shift issues. I took to the local mechanic and they flushed the tranny 3 times to get out the thick black burned fluid. I thought, Ok, I'm good now maybe it was just a glitch.

This morning I was driving home and had the same slippage in 1st gear. I pulled over let it warm up and it went away. Being 200 miles from home I was not feeling a tow so I drove home with care. It was all going well with no trans problems and then all of sudden the dash lit up like a X-mas tree and the ****in truck died. No engine, it just dies and wont start. So I get it towed to a shop where they look at the battery connection and say that the engine died because of low voltage to the powertrain system. Clear the code, clean the battery and presto, fixed. Let's keep driving home.

30 miles from home, hit a bump and hey it's X-mas again. But the truck keeps running. Pull over or drive home.......drive home. Everything is going great untill 10 miles from home I hit 3000 rpms in 1st just to move. Roll down the window and listen to that clutch plate whine kids. Outstanding. But oddly once out of first it runs like a champ with no power loss. Some rolling stops and right only turns and I get home. I just got it to my transmission guy and he is not very impressed with a low mileage truck losing the tranny.

So, isn't it a little early for my trans and electrical systems to both **** the bed? The truck is well cared for with barely any towing and no hard off road use. What the hell is going on here. Is there a weak point I don't know about or a recent recall? I need some help.
 

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Ok, it was not a good day today.

While on my yearly fishing trip my Frontier decided to not shift in to drive and acted starved for tranny fluid. Now this was odd to me because it's a 2006 with 58000mi. I've never had one hiccup from the truck in 2 years and no shift issues. I took to the local mechanic and they flushed the tranny 3 times to get out the thick black burned fluid. I thought, Ok, I'm good now maybe it was just a glitch.

This morning I was driving home and had the same slippage in 1st gear. I pulled over let it warm up and it went away. Being 200 miles from home I was not feeling a tow so I drove home with care. It was all going well with no trans problems and then all of sudden the dash lit up like a X-mas tree and the ****in truck died. No engine, it just dies and wont start. So I get it towed to a shop where they look at the battery connection and say that the engine died because of low voltage to the powertrain system. Clear the code, clean the battery and presto, fixed. Let's keep driving home.

30 miles from home, hit a bump and hey it's X-mas again. But the truck keeps running. Pull over or drive home.......drive home. Everything is going great untill 10 miles from home I hit 3000 rpms in 1st just to move. Roll down the window and listen to that clutch plate whine kids. Outstanding. But oddly once out of first it runs like a champ with no power loss. Some rolling stops and right only turns and I get home. I just got it to my transmission guy and he is not very impressed with a low mileage truck losing the tranny.

So, isn't it a little early for my trans and electrical systems to both **** the bed? The truck is well cared for with barely any towing and no hard off road use. What the hell is going on here. Is there a weak point I don't know about or a recent recall? I need some help.
powertrain warranty until 60,000 miles.

Clint
 

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your batt if factory is 4 years old atleast so not uncommon to start to see voltage problems by that time, and a tranny flush should have been done at 30k i believe. the auto tranny is a very important component and one of the most overlooked by people but warranty should take care of it if you keep it under miles and they dont find any proof of negligence
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The dealership is going to change the entire transmission and honor the warranty. Thank you guys for reminding me of the warranty, a new transmission is $4500 without labor.

I'll give you guys any updates that might help others about what caused the failure.
 

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it doesn't sound like the typical in radiator trans cooler failure that causes contamination but since they are pulling out the tranny i would ask them if there is any way they can tell if it was a coolant contamination from the radiator so that your not right back here with your new tranny not far down the road
 

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sounds like a failed line pressure solenoid... wasnt applying pressure properly for 1st gear.
 

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sounds like a failed line pressure solenoid... wasnt applying pressure properly for 1st gear.
And how would you go about checking or fixing that? Sounds quite simmillar to mine...
 

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you don't really... if you catch it early thats one thing, but once the clutch has dirtied up the oil that bad, there is no recovery - it's only a matter of a short period of time until it quits completely.

I think probably the only scan tool you would be able to see that on would be a Consult setup...
 

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You have a bad ground on your ecu. When the ground gets loose it acts just like that.... Or so I read on here.
CORRECT. This is very possible.

One thing to know about a bad ground when it comes to the transmission and ignition system is that it can cause major damage the the ECU and put it's sensitive computer components under too much stress.

How?... the transmission's valves are triggered by low current ground (-) signals from the ECU... if there is a bad ground to the valves but a good ground on the ECU, the valves will depend on the ground (-) signals from the ECU for POWER SUPPLY to complete a circuit, that is not good... the ignition system works the same exact way... if there is a bad ground to the ignition coil system, the signals from the ECU will supply the ground that the ignition system is lacking which is NOT good. So, tell nissan to change your ECU while they do whatever they do. Your transmission might be perfectly fine, your ECU might be the culprit, but if you get a new transmission and ecu out of the deal, let it be :) ... BE SURE to get that ECU replaced though, FOR SURE. Tell them to check all grounds, ESPECIALLY the ground on top of the engine on the right towards the front of the vehicle, very small ground wires bolted on top there, can go bad really easily.


good luck :D
 
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