Axle swaps stuff
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Auto or manual? Manual of your truck will have the m226 which is a modified Dana 40. Auto will have the c200k which is far more limited in locker options.
Start reading man. I mean that in the nicest way haha! There are a lot of things at play if you want 35's and a locker. For just the rear end, I'd probably look into an axle swap to the M226 with 3.36 gears and either regear now or later. Whatever you do out back with gearing you will have to do up front. If it was my truck, I'd go titan swap and put the m226 in the rear and m205 up front and regear both at the same time and only fuss with it once. This would get you the gearing for 35's, the suspension lift to clear that tire/make things worth while and it will be the most reliable setup.
I'm currently in the same dilemma as I have a c200k rear and want to do it as cost effective as possible. I've thought about 35's and that would require quite a bit of cash to accomplish, however i've learned if I want them now, I'd best save and do it all the right way once to save on multiple installs later (ask me how I know, I've redone my suspension twice now and I still want to titan swap...)
I'm currently in the same dilemma as I have a c200k rear and want to do it as cost effective as possible. I've thought about 35's and that would require quite a bit of cash to accomplish, however i've learned if I want them now, I'd best save and do it all the right way once to save on multiple installs later (ask me how I know, I've redone my suspension twice now and I still want to titan swap...)
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The biggest problem you run into with just putting a regular dana 44 under the truck is the wheel speed sensors and how they mount on our vics. A few members have put jk dana 44's under their rigs but they were able to because the sensor mounting is similar to ours. Other than that, as mentioned, swapping in the m226 is the easiest bet as it's a bolt in. The only thing you would need for the swap, other than the axle is the locker harness. You'll definitely want to regear, as mentioned, if jumping to 35's. Sure the 3.36's will get you along but there is huge, noticeable, power loss. Doing the titan swap will help add reliability if going 35's and it gives the truck a great stance too, imho. Learn from others by researching and seeing their results, and what they wished they had done. Cheers.
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Unless you put in a limited slip carrier, you have an open diff. Nissan never offered a limited slip rear end on 2nd gens. What you are feeling is the ABLS (Antilock Braking Limited Slip) and traction control nannies kicking in. This uses the brakes to control wheel spin at each wheel.
Since you have the c200k, that leaves:
-ARB Air locker (expensive)
-Spartan auto locker
-1-2 others
If you want to go 35"s you have a lot of work ahead of you. Why not just go 33"s? Cost is significantly less and the they will get you through pretty much anything you would actually want to take a truck this large through.
i was thinking of going to 33s, with a 3" suspension lift and 5100 2-3" bilstiens. my cousin keeps saying that i should get a dana 44 or dana series axels. though he has jeep so doesnt know the struggles of a nissan. He mentioned he was going up to 37s and asked if i wanted his 35s. so i figured why not ask and see what it all intales, ive been researching this one for a few weeks now. I know its going to cost me around $2000 for lift, tyers, and shocks. I got family that are mechanic savvy and can help with the labor.
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Are you 2 or 4wd?
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What route were you thinking about going with the lift, tires, and such?
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