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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Add another name to the ever growing list of failed rear axle seals. Looking at the Service Manual, this seems like it could be a bigger project than I would care to undertake in my driveway (drilling and chiseling and pressed on bearings, etc.). Does the Manual just blow it a little out of proportion or is it really that labor intensive just to change the axle seal?

If I'm going to attempt this then I plan on changing both axle seals, pinion seal and bearing, removing & resealing the diff cover, rear brake pads including parking brake (since there's fluid all over the rotors and pads) and doing the DIY vent tube mod (to hopefully extend the life of the new seals). I've been trying to compile a list of things I'm going to need to change this stuff out and have a few questions:

- Do you really need to remove and install a new bearing ring retainer and bearing just to change the seal? Seems like a PITA!

- According to the service manual, there's a list of things that you should replace "after every disassembly" including the 4 axle shaft bearing cage nuts and the ABS sensor rotor. Do you really need to replace those or will it not hurt to reuse them?

- Is there anywhere online that sells a kit for this job that includes all the replacement parts you need?

- And on a DIFFerent note (pun intended :) ), does anyone know where I can get a factory Titan aluminum finned differential cover?

Thanks in advance!!!
 

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Hey there - I actually had those exact same questions myself.

Personally - I'm going to just replace the seals only first and see how it does. Changing out everything else seems per the manual seems like overkill to me.

I might do the new pinion nut, but not the others.

I'm gonna do it all too - including brakes and diff cover seal while I'm at it. I'm thinking of going with the mag hytech gasket and Stillen diff cover.

Maybe someone else can chime in about the bearings...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well from what I've read, there's 2 seals (outer & inner) on the axle housing. The outer is mainly to keep the grease in the bearing and the inner is keeping the diff fluid in and water out. It looks like my problem is the inner seal since I have what appears to be diff fluid on my wheel and brake assembly. That being said, I think you have to chisel the bearing ring retainer off to pull the bearing off to be able to get the inner seal off, then replace/reinstall all of those parts.

I'd rather not do the brakes but since I got that fluid all over the pads and rotor, I feel like it's necessary and I'm the kinda person that will do front and rear brakes and turn the rotors just to be sure.

I definitely agree on the diff cover and gasket though! I've been looking into that all night although, as much as I'd love to spend almost $300 on that Stillen cover, I'm trying to find a aluminum finned Titan cover to tray and save some $$$. I just always feel bad about ordering 1 little item online. I'd rather order it all from one place! :)
 

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Yeah - the stillen diff cover price is kinda steep.

I tried searching Nissan for the Titan part number - found this:

Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Seems it's part number 38350-A60002. Not sure it it includes the plugs and all. Also not sure if it will clear the frontier spare tire? But at $115 - it's not cheap either.

Good point on the inner seals - I'm actually in the process of replacing those on a Dana 44 waggoneer axle that I'm swapping into my pathfinder. Sure will be a pain to change those out though - gotta take the carrier out to get to them. Altough as long as you keep track of the shims - you should be ok to put in right back in the same way?

On another note - what oil is everyone putting back in?
 
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