[shaggyusm]

First, I've looked and looked on here and haven't found anything on this in the forums. I have a 2007 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab SE with the 4.0L V6 and 5-Speed Automatic Transmission and about 22,000 miles. I opted for the 5 year/100,000 bumper-to-bumper warranty should I decide to wait a while.

I've started to notice that when driving, there is a slight vibration or shutter when the transmission shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear. The best way to describe it would be as a "stutter". It's like a VERY faint and VERY quick "bump-bump-bump" All the other shifts are silky smooth. The "strange" shift isn't real consistent, but it does occur fairly often. Driving style doesn't seem to affect it greatly. It does this when driving leisurely (slowly accelerating) or spirited (really getting on the gas hard).

It only happens at the 2-3 shift though.

Is this something to worry about? It's very faint but noticeable considering how smooth and nearly transparent the other 3 shifts are.

Hope someone can help

 

[midocr]

It's under warranty, so take it in and have it checked out. There are all kinds of tranny issues discussed here (just search "transmission"). Not sure if any match your symptoms. Might want to have a look at these too:

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/rumble-strip-vibration-52294/

 

[bigjohn1139]

Did you ever find the cause/cure for this problem?

 

[kyma]

I just began experiencing this with my '07 Frontier (200,000km = 130,000miles).
I think it's mid shift from 2 to 3 or 3 to 4. It feels like driving on the rumble strips at the edge of the road. Otherwise tranny seems fine, no slip. Any suggestions?
Thanks

 

[Delta]

I just began experiencing this with my '07 Frontier (200,000km = 130,000miles).
I think it's mid shift from 2 to 3 or 3 to 4. It feels like driving on the rumble strips at the edge of the road. Otherwise tranny seems fine, no slip. Any suggestions?
Thanks

Pop the radiator cap and check to see the color. If it's a nice strawberry color open your wallet wide... If not then it's something else.

 

[kyma]

Engine coolant looks fine. Thanks.

 

[OBX Frontier]

This is going to sound really weird, but.. I had a similar problem w/ my 2006. Actually it's been a recurring problem, but finally fixed it. Here's where it gets weird. There is a rubber hose that runs from the passenger side of the engine to the rear of the engine. Mine was kinking and sucking closed. It was apparently affecting the shift points somehow. I replaced it w/ a new one, and after about a year, it started doing the same thing and the problem started again. I had a spare new one for my mom's now sold xterra. So I stuck a spring in it at the curve point and installed it. Hopefully this will keep the hose from softening and kinking and sucking closed. Problem hasn't appeared since. See, I said it sounds weird. I'm not really sure it was my transmission, only going by what someone told me about the shift points and the symptoms disappearing with hose replacement.

 

[Stitches]

Looks like I get the pleasure of sorting out the same issue...

The Rumble strips started about 1000 Km ago...Now Anytime the truck hits 80k/hr and shifts into O/D it remains until I get off the throttle. Sadly 1000k doesnt take long...10 days. So it looks like I missed my opening to do the bypass by about 2 weeks.

Nothing showing under the Rad cap. Good news is that it is going into my buddies garage for a full fluid swap and the bypass this Sunday. I will take a few photo's of the aftermath...hoping like you guys that the problem dissipates upon bypass and new fluid....even if I have to do it a couple of times.

 

[Dekowski411]

This is going to sound really weird, but.. I had a similar problem w/ my 2006. Actually it's been a recurring problem, but finally fixed it. Here's where it gets weird. There is a rubber hose that runs from the passenger side of the engine to the rear of the engine. Mine was kinking and sucking closed. It was apparently affecting the shift points somehow. I replaced it w/ a new one, and after about a year, it started doing the same thing and the problem started again. I had a spare new one for my mom's now sold xterra. So I stuck a spring in it at the curve point and installed it. Hopefully this will keep the hose from softening and kinking and sucking closed. Problem hasn't appeared since. See, I said it sounds weird. I'm not really sure it was my transmission, only going by what someone told me about the shift points and the symptoms disappearing with hose replacement.

So I have a 2007 Fronty Crew, long bed, 4wd, 125000 miles and I've been having the same rumble strip problem between 2nd-3rd gear. I have been noticing that if I start the truck and let it sit with the heat running the temperature within the truck wont warm. I then have to rev the engine little and it will start blowing warm air. Sometimes I can hear water trickling within the dash when sitting at idle. Heater coil or hoses aren't leaking.

I have to try the hose replacement I'm not sure why the truck would make the rumbling noise from a collapsed hose. Anyone have further information or experience from this issue?

 

[jamesfast]

Noticed this happening for me as well. No discoloration of the coolant. Happens most of the time, but I'm able to minimize the shudder by letting off the gas when the transmission is ready to shift into 3rd. Was unable to find any helpful information from owners on any forums but I did find these articles:

Don't Get Caught Off Guard With These Potential Nissan RE5R05A Transmission Problems
Dealing with Flaring or Harsh Shifting in the Nissan RE5R05A Transmission

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jatco_5R05_transmission

 

[David_Horne_9964]

Yeah, I've noticed an occasional weird shift 2-3 as well. Mine's a 2015 with less than 10,000 miles. The only other engine or transmission issue is an occasional 1,200 RPM idle but I think that's due to ambient temperature. I'll be sending fluids to Blackstone just before the warranty expires and installing an aux transmission radiator just after.

 

[shift_RUSH]

...and installing an aux transmission radiator just after.

Might be worth researching this? Unless you're towing/hauling heavy a lot, this may be a waste. Guessing your seasonal range of temps are not too extreme there...
.02

 

[mtyler11]

I'll be sending fluids to Blackstone just before the warranty expires and installing an aux transmission radiator just after.

might want to look closer at the grill area... The external trans radiator on my '14 is pretty good size and backed by an e-fan. only time I hear the e-fan kick on is when I'm poking along and have the AC on.

and as Rush said, if you don't tow or offroad, it may be overkill for you, as you would have to add a second trans rad that would cover the other half of the engine rad.
If temps are an issue for you, you might look at a larger trans pan or a cooler engine thermostat. If the engine runs cooler then the radiator is cooler and then the ATF will be cooler as it runs through hte rad before getting to the external trans rad...

Also if you only are putting on ~10k mi per year, might want to Blackstone long before the warranty ends, and any mods too...

I monitor my trans with my bullydog, and the only time the temps get above 160 is when I'm hauling (cargo) or offroad. Most times the temps are about 145-150F

DON'T LET YOUR TRANS TEMPS GET ABOVE 200deg F. For every 20deg over 200 you cut the life of the trans in 1/2.
Towing? protect your trans

 

[David_Horne_9964]

Yeah, shift_RUSH, no freezing temps here but plenty of " fry an egg on the asphalt " temps. .....and plenty of salt. That's always a problem with EVERYTHING here. Not just the truck.
.
Good ideas mtyler11. Please expand on why to have the fluids tested before the approach of the warranty end. I currently drive 6,000 miles per year and expect that number to decrease.

 

[mtyler11]

Good ideas mtyler11. Please expand on why to have the fluids tested before the approach of the warranty end. I currently drive 6,000 miles per year and expect that number to decrease.

sorry, I only saw this today. (reason I quote someone, makes it more likely they get a msg telling them they were)

fluids wear out both due to mileage (use) and age. Oil, for example: if you have lots of short trips, you end up with alot more carbon and acidic buildup in the engine oil... this is why you Should change it every 6 months at most if all your trips are short and don't let the engine get up to temp, which then will evaporate off any gas that gets by the piston rings when its cold. There are filters out there that will remove the carbon & soot allowing for Much extended OCI, but you have to run one of these... more info... bypass filters... in industrial use... Bypass filters are used more for larger, diesel engines with alot more oil in the pan and much longer run times between shutdowns. also, changing 5qt every 5-7k mi is not as big a deal as 12-18 as you find in big rig powerplants...

coolant and trans fluid also becomes acidic but at a much slower rate (no exposure to combustion gasses). This is the biggest reason for testing the fluids.

changing fluid at OEM mileage or time benchmarks prevent them from denying a warranty claim, but I'd rather not have to make a claim. checking every other year (30-40k) lets you know what is happening in the engine (oil) & trans. Coolant I might do about 80K and diffs would depend on use...

 

[David_Horne_9964]

sorry, I only saw this today. (reason I quote someone, makes it more likely they get a msg telling them they were)

fluids wear out both due to mileage (use) and age. Oil, for example: if you have lots of short trips, you end up with alot more carbon and acidic buildup in the engine oil... this is why you Should change it every 6 months at most if all your trips are short and don't let the engine get up to temp, which then will evaporate off any gas that gets by the piston rings when its cold. There are filters out there that will remove the carbon & soot allowing for Much extended OCI, but you have to run one of these... more info... bypass filters... in industrial use... Bypass filters are used more for larger, diesel engines with alot more oil in the pan and much longer run times between shutdowns. also, changing 5qt every 5-7k mi is not as big a deal as 12-18 as you find in big rig powerplants...

coolant and trans fluid also becomes acidic but at a much slower rate (no exposure to combustion gasses). This is the biggest reason for testing the fluids.

changing fluid at OEM mileage or time benchmarks prevent them from denying a warranty claim, but I'd rather not have to make a claim. checking every other year (30-40k) lets you know what is happening in the engine (oil) & trans. Coolant I might do about 80K and diffs would depend on use...

Thank you mtyler11. I now intend to Blackstone the oil, radiator and transmission fluids in June when I change the oil next. I like the idea of running two filters in series rather than just one and will strongly consider that. I'm using exclusively Mobile One EP oil and filter changed out every 6 months. I've never gone over 3,000 miles in that time period. My understanding is that the Mobile One EP filter is designed specifically to work with that oil and will only pass molecules of the same size as the oil or less. When I last had the oil changed, the tech actually remarked to me how clean the old oil was. It only had about 2,000 miles on it though. I feel so strongly about using a high quality oil and matching filter that the image shown is the first page in the service receipt 3 ring binder I keep in the truck. I fully expect the truck to outlast me and hope my heirs will heed my request.
.
Perhaps I should change out all the fluids in June. The truck will be 2.5 years old at that time with 6 months left on the warranty.
.

 

[mtyler11]

Thank you mtyler11. I now intend to Blackstone the oil, radiator and transmission fluids in June when I change the oil next. I like the idea of running two filters in series rather than just one and will strongly consider that. I'm using exclusively Mobile One EP oil and filter changed out every 6 months. I've never gone over 3,000 miles in that time period. My understanding is that the Mobile One EP filter is designed specifically to work with that oil and will only pass molecules of the same size as the oil or less. When I last had the oil changed, the tech actually remarked to me how clean the old oil was. It only had about 2,000 miles on it though. I feel so strongly about using a high quality oil and matching filter that the image shown is the first page in the service receipt 3 ring binder I keep in the truck. I fully expect the truck to outlast me and hope my heirs will heed my request.
.
Perhaps I should change out all the fluids in June. The truck will be 2.5 years old at that time with 6 months left on the warranty.
.

with only 2.5 yrs the coolant has several years life left in it. FSM says 84 months (7yrs) I'd test it at 5-6yrs for S&G assuming your mileage continues on a constant trend and replace at 7. Engine every 3k is fine, and if the tech is remarking on its cleanliness you have no worries for particulate, which is what a bypass filter catches. It's not a inline/full flow filter like your spin-on filter. its also not a simple kit to install. Its benefit is only realized for those running lots of miles. Like if you did 5k per month, then I'd say sure, then you could do OIC @ 3-4 months.
Your issue (and anyone doing low miles or short hops) is acid buildup and the only thing that helps with that is regular oil changes like you're doing.

Even the most expensive/best full-flow filters filter particles down to about 10 microns. There's a fair bit of info to be found/read at BITOG. you can get lost in there, there's so much lube info...

Testing the oil, ATF and diff is not unreasonable even with your low mileage. If you are having any instance of condensation they'll find it and advise you. More than likely they'll tell you it's all roses and you can keep on keepin' on. They'll ask you what your typical usage is and that will factor into their advice.