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I'm looking at buying a 2004 4wd auto. 130k, the trans is shot. I have a shop and am well experienced with this kind of stuff. That said, if there is something I'm not aware of... some silly bolt that's hard to access, perhaps the front suspension needs to be removed for some silly reason, etc... I don't know if I'll buy it. I've had enough of that stuff! If it is a straightforward truck transmission removal though, I may be game.

Any experience, any stories, how much time it took, special tools, etc? Any recommendations on a good rebuilder? Is it common to add an aftermarket oil to air cooler in substitution of the radiator embedded cooler?

Thanks so much for any help. I want to love this truck.

-Rob
 

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The transmission and transfer case assembly is pretty long and pretty heavy. If you have a shop with a vehicle lift and a good transmission jack, it's a good thing! The torsion bars with crossmember have to be removed and you should get a wheel alignment afterwards. I usually measure from the ground to the top of the wheel wells to help get me close to the original ride height after re-installing the torsion bars w/ crossmember. I don't remove the torsion bars from the crossmember, but use a wax crayon or touch up paint to mark the alignment of the front of the torsion bar with the coupler to the control arm. Make sure they check the ride height when they do the alignment, which involves measuring at two points at each control arm and finding the difference, respectively, and comparing to factory specs. This is done prior to adjusting the camber/caster/toe. The exhaust Y-pipe will also have to be removed. Lots of soaking with rust penetrant, of course! You'll need to lower the back of the trans to angle the engine/trans assembly to get to the top bell house bolts (with long extensions and universal sockets). I prefer to drain the trans and transfer case prior, so I don't accidentally pour it all over me and/or the floor! It's not high on my list of fun things to do, but, not rocket science. One more thing: don't use Dexron III/Mercon. Use either Nissan-matic Type "D" ATF or a synthetic ATF recommended for Dexron II applications. Valvoline Maxlife ATF is my personal choice.
 
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