[RedDR]

Simple to do and just need a new filter, trans pan gasket and the genuine Nissan fluid? Fill through the dipstick I assume?

Mine is operating just fine and I want to keep it that way. I do not want to do one of those pressurized flushes.

Thanks for any input.

 

[smj999smj]

You don't need the filter or the pan gasket. Jatco automatic transmissions (used in Nissans) use a screen inside rather than a serviceable filter. As they told me when I was taking the automatic trans course at the Nissan Northeast Regional Training center: "If you have enough debris in your transmission fluid to clog or restrict the screen, then you don't need a filter; you need a new transmission or a transmission overhaul."
There will be a 19MM drain plug on the bottom of the pan. Park park on a level surface after a short drive to warm up the trans fluid. Remove the drain plug and drain into a pan. Replace the crush washer (Nissan P/N 11026-01M02) and re-install the drain plug; torque to 25 ft/lbs. Remove the dipstick and install 4 quarts of ATF. Run engine and check level, topping off the level as needed. Typically, it's about 4.5 to 4.7 quarts, +/-.
For fluid, you can use NissanMatic Type "D" ATF, which is essentially Dexron II. You can also use most synthetic ATF's; just make sure they are recommended for Dexron/Dexron II applications. I use Valvoline Maxlife Full-synthetic ATF, which I can get for $18/gallon jug at Walmart. Castrol Transmax Multi-import ATF is another good choice. *Avoid using Dexron III/Mercon ATF as Nissan put out a service bulletin many years ago stating that it could cause valves to stick inside the valve body. It's okay for topping off the fluid, but not recommended for a full service.

 

[twinsig]

Typically, it's about 4.5 to 4.7 quarts, +/-.

How many drain & fill cycles are needed, just the ONE?

I ask b/c on my daughter's CRV I used an entire case /12 qts ...
3qt drain & drive 4 times to get 82% (?) new fluid in the system.

BTW, my 00' vg33 has 260k and has never been serviced that I'm aware of.
I bought it from my brother in law who bought it new.

 

[RyanD1966]

TwinSig, IMHO at 260k I would not touch that transmission. Let sleeping dogs lay.

 

[silverarrow27]

...For fluid, you can use NissanMatic Type "D" ATF, which is essentially Dexron II. You can also use most synthetic ATF's; just make sure they are recommended for Dexron/Dexron II applications. I use Valvoline Maxlife Full-synthetic ATF, which I can get for $18/gallon jug at Walmart. Castrol Transmax Multi-import ATF is another good choice. *Avoid using Dexron II/Mercon ATF as Nissan put out a service bulletin many years ago stating that it could cause valves to stick inside the valve body. It's okay for topping off the fluid, but not recommended for a full service.

I've been thinking about doing the same thing for mine. However, I think I'm just going to do a "drain & fill" come Spring. I'm looking at using Redline D4 ATF:

• Our most versatile ATF, use where Dexron III®, Dexron II®, Mercon® and Mercon V® fluids are recommended, for use in automatic, manual transmissions and power steering
• Popular applications: Toyota Type T-III and T-IV, Honda ATF-Z1, Nissan Matic D, J & K, Diamond SP-II, SP-III, Mazda ATF M-V, most BMW and Audi/VW automatic transmissions
• Also used with manual transmissions and transaxles like T-5, T-45, T-56 and late-model BMW, provides a GL-4 level of gear protection
• Excellent cold weather operation

So, it somewhat contradicts what was recommended. What's your suggestion? Go or no go?

 

[green4x4]

If you want Nissan OEM, you can get 5 quarts on Amazon for $40. I just used the Valvoline regular. Oddly, I thought my drain plug was 18mm, not 19mm.

 

[twinsig]

TwinSig, IMHO at 260k I would not touch that transmission. Let sleeping dogs lay.

Yeah, I've heard that in the old days. I may consider a 4 qt (or whatever) drain-fill cycle then drive a couple thousand miles and do it again. NO filter change though, seem useless if its just a screen as mentioned above.

That old CRV I spoke of had a billion miles on it (still going today) and shifted funny but improved after the drain-fill (NO power flush like the jiffy-lubes try to sell)...which can dislodge baked-on impurities releasing them into the entire system and screw it up.

 

[The other Sean]

Yeah, I've heard that in the old days. I may consider a 4 qt (or whatever) drain-fill cycle then drive a couple thousand miles and do it again. NO filter change though, seem useless if its just a screen as mentioned above.

That old CRV I spoke of had a billion miles on it (still going today) and shifted funny but improved after the drain-fill (NO power flush like the jiffy-lubes try to sell)...which can dislodge baked-on impurities releasing them into the entire system and screw it up.

At 260k miles, I'd even be tempted to sneak up on it more than that and only drain and replace 1-2 quarts per oil change.

 

[smj999smj]

How many drain & fill cycles are needed, just the ONE?

I ask b/c on my daughter's CRV I used an entire case /12 qts ...
3qt drain & drive 4 times to get 82% (?) new fluid in the system.

BTW, my 00' vg33 has 260k and has never been serviced that I'm aware of.
I bought it from my brother in law who bought it new.

On the older transmissions, I did a drain and fill every 30,000 miles. On my vehicles with the 5-speed automatic trans, I do a drain and fill every 50,000 miles.

 

[smj999smj]

I've been thinking about doing the same thing for mine. However, I think I'm just going to do a "drain & fill" come Spring. I'm looking at using Redline D4 ATF:

• Our most versatile ATF, use where Dexron III®, Dexron II®, Mercon® and Mercon V® fluids are recommended, for use in automatic, manual transmissions and power steering
• Popular applications: Toyota Type T-III and T-IV, Honda ATF-Z1, Nissan Matic D, J & K, Diamond SP-II, SP-III, Mazda ATF M-V, most BMW and Audi/VW automatic transmissions
• Also used with manual transmissions and transaxles like T-5, T-45, T-56 and late-model BMW, provides a GL-4 level of gear protection
• Excellent cold weather operation

So, it somewhat contradicts what was recommended. What's your suggestion? Go or no go?

Redline is very good ATF, although expensive. I'm not sure how it contradicts anything?