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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey Guys, I thought I had this one beat but its still giving me some issues and I'd like some advise/opinions.

07 4.0L, Auto, 114,000 miles

Symptoms/ What I've already done:
About 2 weeks ago I was driving to work and had a strange temporary loss of power while exiting the freeway which triggered the SES light only. During lunch, that day the truck stalled coming into a parking lot. I was able to restart it after a few seconds of cranking. Now the SES, SLIP, and VDC lights were lit. This is also when I noticed a loss of power and a bog type feeling and low to mid range rpms, exhaust note also louder.

After doing some reading on the web after I got back to work, I was fairly convinced that I had either a Camshaft Position or Crank Position sensor that went bad.

On my way home, it stalled again on the freeway on-ramp. Once again, a few seconds of cranking and it started up again. I drove to Autozone to have the code read and I got a P0340 (Camshaft Position Sensor Bank 1, Passenger side), so I bought the sensor they had.

I had already planned on doing my spark plugs that weekend, so I did all the following:
-New spark plugs (NGK Iridium Laser, as OE suggests)
-New intake manifold seals
-Clean throttle body and intake
-Clean and inspect VIAS
-New Intake tube boots
-Install Autozone Cam position sensor in passenger head
-Cleared codes

Now the truck was fine for a day or so. SES, SLIP, VDC came back and I read the P0340 as well as a P0507 (High Idle). The high idle was expected as the throttle body was very dirty, I did not manually move the butterfly though. I tried doing the IAR procedure but with the SES light on I don't think it works.

Ok, I figure dud sensor as some had mentioned on here when using aftermarket sensors. I go get an OEM sensor, swap it out, clean the connection contacts (bit oily), and clear the codes.

Drive for a few miles, only SES comes back but this time reporting a P0011 (Intake Valve Timing Control Performance Bank 1), and the high idle again.

Alright... Do some more reading and come across this thread. I checked the things mentioned by smj here. Oil level is correct with only 1000 miles on it since last change, I change it religiously every 5000 miles with Maxlife semi-synthetic and a quality filter. So I felt it was unlikely to be gunked up. I have had my timing chains and guides done, but that was over 60k miles ago and this code has never shown up before, so off by a tooth is not likely. I also think the rear timing cover seal is fine as I only get the code for the passenger bank, not both making me think oil pressure is fine.

All this makes me think I've got a bad VVT solenoid as the OP of that thread states. My engine bay is also pretty dirty due to living on a dirt road, so corrosion made sense in my mind. Ok, so I order up an OEM IVTCS and just finished installing that.

Sadly, I noticed no change after installing and clearing the codes, they came right back after a few minutes:( So now I've got about $250 in parts thrown at this problem and still have a broken truck... Something else I noticed after installing the new solenoid is that when the throttle is depressed when the key is in the on position, the new one clicks very loudly compared to the old one. Not sure if it is supposed to do that or not.

So that is where I'm at. It's driveable still as the stalling stopped after the OEM sensor but its still down on power. After some further reading, there are a few more things to try but I thought I ask here first.

What is left to try:
- Clean all related electrical contact connections
- Check for shorts and/or opens in the harness
- Check grounds
- Bad Crank position sensor

Any input would be great as I don't want to just throw more parts at it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
May or may not be contributing to the timing issue but here is a video of startup, idle, and some revs.

Notice how the rpms sort of surge when trying to find idle right after starting. It does this just about everytime and settles at an idle of about 1200-1400rpm. When in gear it sits about 1000rpm, not great for the torque converter...

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So an OEM Crank Position Sensor is $30 from the dealer. I think I'll pick one up tomorrow and give that a try. If that doesn't do it, my last ditch effort will be cleaning all the contact before accepting defeat, bending over, and handing it to the dealer/pros
 

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When it comes to sensors always buy oem. What code do you have now p0011 still?
 

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Check for a service bulliten on the computer relay or recall, I cant remember which. That may or may not be your problem
 

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Hopefully this fixes the problem . When I needed to replace my crank position sensor about a year ago, I picked up a non-OEM one at Autozone because it was closer than the dealer. It was only a few dollars less... So far so good.


So an OEM Crank Position Sensor is $30 from the dealer. I think I'll pick one up tomorrow and give that a try. If that doesn't do it, my last ditch effort will be cleaning all the contact before accepting defeat, bending over, and handing it to the dealer/pros
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Small update, I drove it a bit more yesterday after putting the new solenoid in and it did seem better but still not fixed. The idle dropped a bit and the P0011 was only a pending for a few drive cycles. It did come back this morning though.

I picked up the new sensor and some contact cleaner as well as some new vacuum line as some looked a bit dry. Going to work on it shortly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Well, I put the new sensor in and cleaned all the associated connectors and applied dielectric grease. Sadly no change...

I was looking a bit more into the IPDM issue and while I don't think that is what is going on, I'm going to try and swap the ECM relay with the Fog light relay to see for sure.

Some other things I was thinking about:
- Is it possible that the driver side cam position sensor is just acting lazy compared to the new passenger side one? The P0011 is for an over advance in timing on the passenger bank. Is that a thing? The driver side is the only one I have not replaced.

- When I had my timing chains done, the cover had quite a bit of RTV ooze around the seal. Maybe a piece broke off inside and is blocking one of the oil passages to the VVT solenoid? I read about some Maxima owners having the same issues and to fix it, they used compressed air sprayed into the VVT oil channels to clear the blockage. Any concerns by doing this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Swapped the ECM relay with the unused spare in the IPDM and no change.

Probably won't have time today, but I want to try the compressed air thru the oil channels. As long as I provide somewhere for the added air to escape (oil fill cap), this shouldn't cause any issues right?
 

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P0011 is a oil pressure code for bank 1, start off by checking oil level and pressure. If that's good, I would be suspect of the rear timing cover oil gallery gasket.
P0507 and high idle is because you messed with the throttle body. Try doing a IAVL relearn, if you sprayed a cleaner into the throttle body you may have damaged the electronics.
 

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P0011 is a oil pressure code for bank 1, start off by checking oil level and pressure. If that's good, I would be suspect of the rear timing cover oil gallery gasket.
P0507 and high idle is because you messed with the throttle body. Try doing a IAVL relearn, if you sprayed a cleaner into the throttle body you may have damaged the electronics.
A bad rear timing cover gasket will cause a drop in the oil pressure.

I'd guess that the cam position sensor was bad and that the problems you've seen after that was replaced are because of the throttle body cleaning. I agree with checking the oil pressure first because low pressure is something you shouldn't let persist, but I bet the IAVL re-calibration will solve your problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the insight guys but those were the first things I checked. Oil level and pressure are normal with oil that has less than 1k miles on it. Also, if the rear timing cover was leaking I'd see codes for both banks, not just the passenger side. I've also tried the relearn procedure many times with no success.

I've been talking to a few master techs and the general census is that the new cam sensor I put in on the passenger side is a newer rev than the driver side (original). They were saying Nissan has had a ton of problems with these sensors failing across the lineup and have revised them like 10 times now. This causes minor differences in the signal they produce and therefore one thinks the other is having a problem.

I may still take it in to have a professional diagnosis with a Nissan Consult just to confirm before a drop another $100 on the driver side sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, I'm taking it to an independent Nissan specialist on Friday morning for a full diagnostic. I detailed everything I've done so far and they have a few things they want to test and try. Prices are fair, so as long as they are able to tell me what's wrong definitively, I'm willing to pay. Seem like a good shop, they have excellent reviews and service writer I spoke with was very knowledgeable and helpful. Will update what I hear back from them.
 

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Thanks for the insight guys but those were the first things I checked. Oil level and pressure are normal with oil that has less than 1k miles on it. Also, if the rear timing cover was leaking I'd see codes for both banks, not just the passenger side. I've also tried the relearn procedure many times with no success.

I've been talking to a few master techs and the general census is that the new cam sensor I put in on the passenger side is a newer rev than the driver side (original). They were saying Nissan has had a ton of problems with these sensors failing across the lineup and have revised them like 10 times now. This causes minor differences in the signal they produce and therefore one thinks the other is having a problem.

I may still take it in to have a professional diagnosis with a Nissan Consult just to confirm before a drop another $100 on the driver side sensor.

Yes, I was agreeing that low oil pressure was unlikely to be the cause, but was suggesting you put a gauge on it to be sure as I didn't think you had ruled it out definitively ("...think the rear timing cover seal is fine as I only get the code for the passenger bank, not both making me think oil pressure is fine").

I still think the air volume calibration is the root cause of the present issue(s) and that you can correct that for no cost. I had significant trouble getting either IAVL procedure to work the first time I tried to do it some years ago (probably made 50+ attempts over a few weeks). Turned out that I was rushing through the process; after I slowed it down a bit, I was able to perform it successfully repeatedly. (The upside of that frustrating exercise is that I don't have to look up the procedure anymore; it's been permanently ingrained after so many failed attempts.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Is your MAF sensor ok?
I would think so, but I did not physically check it. I've been really good about cleaning it with MAF cleaner and not over oiling the K&N over the years. I've actually switched back to a paper filter now. Would a dirty/bad one display the issues I'm seeing?
 

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I would think so, but I did not physically check it. I've been really good about cleaning it with MAF cleaner and not over oiling the K&N over the years. I've actually switched back to a paper filter now. Would a dirty/bad one display the issues I'm seeing?
Not entirely sure. Mine got unplugged by a bad mechanic and the truck bogged down and acted low on power. The exhaust also smelled awful. A different shop quickly fixed the issue, but I did not ask what the codes were. Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just got back home from the shop. So far $118 got me a bit more insight but not much else...
They spent about 2 hours on it this morning with a high end scan tool that has a o scope among other things. They were unable to fix the idle or the p0011. They came back saying that my throttle body was potentially ruined from the cleaning and that they would need to bring in their specialist with a real Nissan Consult to determine for sure. This was going to cost me $400, I declined. They mentioned that the driver side cam sensor (the one I did not replace) was reporting info just fine, the new OEM passenger cam sensor was acting "odd". They said the idle needed to be fixed before they can really do a deep investigation into the cam sensor issue.

So, I call my buddy up that has his shop a few blocks away. He has an 06 Frontier that has been sitting for a bit since he got a new truck. He agreed to let me try parts swapping to see what I can fix.
I swapped the throttle bodies first and, bingo, idle fixed. While I was there I also swapped the driver side cam sensors and the MAF for shits and giggles. No change as far as the P0011 goes.
Take it back to the shop and say the idle is fixed now. But they wouldn't be able to get to it until Tuesday next week, so I'm going to try a couple more things before then and hope I don't need to go back.

After looking at some other threads, I think my issue with the throttle body was I wasn't doing the relearn right. I was not using a stop watch and was turning the key all the way off rather than just to acc. So I may give that another go this weekend sometime on my TB.

I'm also going to top off the oil for sanity, its just slightly below the Full mark and also do the compressed air in the VVT solenoid holes as when I changed that there was a noticeable difference. Just for fun I may put the old cam sensor back in at just see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
^Considered using something like that but I feel like BG is mostly snake oil, personal opinion...

I went out and tried a few more things just now.

Blew out the oil channels to the VVT solenoid and did get some dark ugly looking oil coming out (darker than what shows on dipstick). Sadly, no change though.
Also tried putting the original cam sensor back in and this is something I found interesting... The original only gets a P0340 and no sign of the P0011. As soon as I put the new one back in, no more P0340 and only a P0011. This coupled with what the shop said about the strange readings from the sensor make me think maybe another bad sensor. Although, I find this hard to believe as it checks out to the FSM spec on the meter.
 
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