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Discussion Starter #1
Just want to confirm. From AT to MT. CC to KC. Seems like they are. In fact seems like the titan and the and armada share the same front DS as well.

Got a weird vibration after I swapped out my winter tires. Go to check my front DS u-joints. Sure enough the front joint had play. That was no more than 20K ago that I swapped out that joint. I do recall it being tight after I finished the press job and suspected that it was dinging and that it would not last long. Considering buying another shaft to have as a spare. Aftermarket new rear DSs are available but the fronts need to be OE.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Just bought a Dana 5-1310-1x front u-joint. The most expensive u-joint listed.
Bought off of amazon (w/prime) for less than rockauto shipped. ~$30. It is a grease able unit. With the grease nub at the end.
 

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^I just replaced the joints in my front shaft recently as well with Dana units. Didn't spring for the most expensive ones rather the $9-13 range ones. They installed easily and have been nice and smooth ever since.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Almost have the shaft off. Arms got tired. I got to say that getting the drive shaft off is a PITA operation. The constant rotating of the shaft in order to get to all of the bolts is tiresome to so solo.
The failed u-joint is the rear one on the front shaft. Need to do some highway driving tomorrow and do not need 4wd for a week or so. Will be nice to do it without vibration. New joint should get here tomorrow evening. Got to love prime 2-day shipping. i had to buy a u-joint at the local O-rielys. I recall it costing about $25-30 for a unit that should have been about $15. Figure for the same $30, I'll get the expensive one via the mail in 2 days.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
4wd again. Yet to test drive.

Drove about 200 miles in 2wd. I am convinced to that a greasable joint is better. Did drop a needle in the cup and could not get the snap ring in. Pushed the cups out to retrieve before i crushed and destroy the joint.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Drove to work this morning. Vibration free, at least up to 65 mph. Did feel like there was some additional drag/growling noise or something, but generally smooth.

My last post was from my phone, so not too much detail. But I wanted to elaborate on the grease able u-joint. The first time I replaced the u-joints I read a bunch of info on greaseble vs non u-joints, and decided that non greaseables where going to be fine. Non are stronger since there "X" portion is not hallow. Grease should last a life time. My 97 hardbody for example is still on its OE u-joints at 225K. I also did not think that I was really going to be servicing my u-joints regularly. However I have made a 180 about the joints. First off, our joints fail not when the "X" break, but when the bearings get dried out, contaminated with dirt/water, and crumble. One of the joints I replaced (in the past) was a greaseable (whice I did not grease at the time of installation through the zerk fitting cause my grease gun was broken). Since I pull the DS I decided to shot some grease in the joint. A lot of black grease pushed out from the seal before the new grease came out. That is a very satisfying feeling. Finale point is on installation. since the end cups are sealed you are not able to pack the bearings full of grease upon installation. The grease will "hydro lock" and make it difficult to install. After installing the new greaseable joint I was able to pump several ounces of grease into the joint. yes much of the was the fill the hallows of the "X", but the bearing do get fully greased, which you can not just by packing.
 
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