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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As the title says, I was wondering if anyone has tried using the Jounce Shock from Light Racing. More specifically, how noticeably it works and how well it prevents bottoming while rock crawling. My truck drives fairly soft right now so in order to make it a little more street/highway friendly, I'm trying to decide which route to take. So far the 3 options I'm looking at are:

1. Get a stiffer spring. Would probably solve the easy bottoming out but may require new valving to compensate. Not sure how much body roll will be reduced. Haven't priced it out yet but I would guess fairly expensive.

2. Get a titan sway bar. Would help with the highway but disconnecting and reconnecting every time I hit the trails could get old. Not too expensive.

3. Get the Jounce Shock. Would prevent harsh bottoming but may not help with body roll on the highway. Expensive.

I know it's ultimately my choice but I just wanted to hear what others may have to say about this. Thanks:)
And yes I will eventually call Greg but maybe when things have settled down a bit more for him.
 

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Well you could buy the coilovers I have for sale (in my sig) and that would stiffen up your ride and give you 2.5 inches of lift, and give you the ability to adjust for camber with an alignment.
 

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mustard had them on his slr made titan mid travel kit

 

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1. what is your coil spring rate?

2. I have been trying for years to get a company to make a front sway bar with disconnects.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
1. what is your coil spring rate?

2. I have been trying for years to get a company to make a front sway bar with disconnects.
I emailed King with this question as well as whether they make one with a higher rate. I'm just waiting to see what they say.

I hear you on the disconnects. I can't remember how my truck looked with a sway bar on, it's been so long but the tentative plan was to just undo the endlinks and cable-tie it out of the way for the time being. Or something like that.
 

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I have the jounce shocks, but I rarely even click them on the road.
Pismo a couple weeks ago worked them pretty good though.

Foot in in corners prevents body roll.
I haven't run a sway bar for the last 65k
 

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2007 LE 4x4 Crew Cab Long Box
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I hear you on the disconnects. I can't remember how my truck looked with a sway bar on, it's been so long but the tentative plan was to just undo the endlinks and cable-tie it out of the way for the time being. Or something like that.
someone on here did that, but punched the schraeder valve off theor radflos as the enflink came up. i know your kinfs don't have these valves in the same location, but i imagine the endlinks would nail something else
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
someone on here did that, but punched the schraeder valve off theor radflos as the enflink came up. i know your kinfs don't have these valves in the same location, but i imagine the endlinks would nail something else
:(

Going by the input so far, heavier springs seem the way to go. Guess I'll have to wait and see how much King wants for them, if they even have them.
 

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I emailed King with this question as well as whether they make one with a higher rate. I'm just waiting to see what they say.
King make different rated springs but looking at the pictures post of your lasting wheeling trip you have black coils not the blue ones that come with King coilovers.

PRG must have put a different springs on, maybe even longer since you are Titan swapped. Do you see a number on the coils?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
King make different rated springs but looking at the pictures post of your lasting wheeling trip you have black coils not the blue ones that come with King coilovers.

PRG must have put a different springs on, maybe even longer since you are Titan swapped. Do you see a number on the coils?
Actually they are the springs that King sent to PRG but Greg powdercoated them black at my request. But now I can't see any #'s and at the time I bought them, I didn't think to ask Greg what the spring rate was. Not sure if they're longer either because I do remember Greg saying something about changing something inside to make it work for the T-swap.

Another thing I just thought about is that if I were to go with heavier springs, that would affect my static ride height again. I'm happy with the amount of sag my truck is sitting on, not sure if I want to change it so maybe the sway bar is my only option.

I know I must sound indecisive but this is just me thinking aloud, writing things down.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, the reply from King is that the spring is only used to control height, not bottoming. Brian says that the valving would have to be changed to control the bottoming issue. I guess I'll have to plan another road trip down to see some friends in Oakland and see Greg while I'm down there.
 

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Well, the reply from King is that the spring is only used to control height, not bottoming. Brian says that the valving would have to be changed to control the bottoming issue. I guess I'll have to plan another road trip down to see some friends in Oakland and see Greg while I'm down there.
do you think the lack of preload may leave you needing longer springs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
do you think the lack of preload may leave you needing longer springs?
Not sure if I follow you on this, do you mean that because I have no preload on the springs right now, that when they get bagged, they'll become loose on the perch? If that's what you mean then I should be ok because there is quite a bit of tension on the spring with the collar wound all the way out. The spring would have fail for it to be a problem, me thinks.
 

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mustard had them on his slr made titan mid travel kit

And now they are on my truck :)

Seriously, they work great. Expensive, but worth it. I'll be getting a set for the rear when I do my titan rear end swap.

Fox also makes a set, as well as Radflo I believe.
 

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Well, the reply from King is that the spring is only used to control height, not bottoming. Brian says that the valving would have to be changed to control the bottoming issue. I guess I'll have to plan another road trip down to see some friends in Oakland and see Greg while I'm down there.
What is the valving on your King's? Are they the stock King valving or did PRG change that when they removed the drop stop?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What is the valving on your King's? Are they the stock King valving or did PRG change that when they removed the drop stop?
Yes, Greg did change the valving to work for the kind of driving that I told him I do but it seems like I need a touch more compression damping. Sorry, I don't have any numbers to give you in terms of what kind of settings he used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
no, i was thinking that the stroke is too short without any preload on the springs, thus causing you to feel like you are 'bottoming'
So, by adding preload to the springs, I would gain more compression travel but I would compromise the static sag height that I have now that I like. Not to mention that I would also lose out on "droop" travel. I had it like that before but when I was driving over speed bumps and stuff like that, when the wheels fully extended, there was a not too nice clunk of the coilover fully extending and hitting the internal droop stop. I then decided to add some spacers made to the same height that I had the spring preloaded, then undid the preload. That gave me the same ride height but with the truck sitting more in the middle of all available travel as opposed to the top 1/4 or so.

It makes sense in my head but I'm not sure if I'm conveying this properly.
 
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