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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone ever attempted a blowthru or know anyone who has?
I am about tto do a blowthru on my 01 frontier crewcab to facilitate an audio system without taking up the whole back seat...
I plan to cut the sheet metal about 2-3inches under the glass continuing into the sheet metal of the truck bed. I want to use sheet metal(probably fabricated at a pro metal shop to my specific dimensions) and I'll weld it inside the truck at the cutout same goes for the cutout in the bed.
I haven't moved out of the planning phase as of right now because I want to be sure of what I'm doing before I cut my truck into pieces.

Oh and I will most definately be photographing/videoing the project. I may even do like a step by step for anyone else wanting to try this mod.

Thanks,
mike
 

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its been done havent seen it on here I know there are a few HBs with it done. mostly for DB drag stuff, lot of work for not a lot of gain IMO
 

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welding the bed to the cab that way causes more problems that its worth.

1. when your driving, the cab and bed move independent of each other. this is going to cause stress on your tunnel and lead to splits and cracks, so water can get into your mdf, etc, etc you get the idea.

2. welding the cab to the bed means you can no longer take the bed off in case you need to. this can make servicing the vehicle a bit difficult on certain things.

that said, im all for blow throughs. as long as they are planned out right. when done wrong they are a pain in the *** to fix. what are you planning on stuffing back there? do you have your tonneau cover yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good points ScottX..
I have come up with a new plan. I will have the compartment that I will have built to have flanged edges so that I can place a gasket(that I will fabricate) around so i can just bolt it to the cab. That will leave the compartment itself to "float" on into the bed. Of course i will construct something for the compartment to rest on.. maybe some heavy duty rubber, like tractor trailer mud flaps(we have an abundance of them where i work). Speed bumps may still be a problem though.... actually not being attached should eliminate that problem, stainless steel is quite resiliant..

OK soo i am going to be putting some drawings together on paper and in autocad as well as making measurments and taking photos!!!!

I am not going to cover the entire truck bed with one of those nice but EXPENSIVE covers.

I am putting an Audioque HDC315 15 sub and an Alpine MRD-M1000 in the compartment. The box is huge for one sub but the thing hits like i got three or more going.. I have it in the back seat now but it takes up too much room and the box is next to impossible to brace.
 

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I think it would be best to build a box from the bottom of the floor that sticks out through the bottom. I would try that before going in between the bed and the cab. Would be trickier but I think you would be happier with it. Plus, you could add a plexiglass cover and a light in the box that lets you see your fine fabrication work. The problem is that large of a sub. If it is to be that large it may be impossible to locate in the floor. Just another idea.
 

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Iv'e done two, both on HBs. One using the whole bed and one with a smaller two cubic foot bandpass box here at MTX in AZ in a KC. Best if there is nothing on the rear center wall like the 2nd Gen KC (jack storage is in the way).

I suggest locating the port as close to the center axis as possible. Cut the pathway for the port about a 1/2 inch larger and use boot material from a camper shell rear window kit. You can probably get the small amount needed for free. Make the port hole as tight as possible for standard PVC O.D. (4'' min to aid in adjustments by hand) and press fit and of course no less than 3/4 inch MDF. Between that and being on center axis between the bed and cab will help with flexing & twisting.

I built the box into an existing truck box I had in the bed (sold to a local member here after over 10 years of use). Use a new bi-metal hole saw for the cut (no blades). If you have carpet on the back interior wall, test it without cutting the carpet first and just removing some of the backing to keep it all hidden to see if it suits your craving.

Only other thing I can suggest is to base your measurements off of what the driver requires and plan/build from there.

Good Luck & Have Fun!
 

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Good points ScottX..
I have come up with a new plan. I will have the compartment that I will have built to have flanged edges so that I can place a gasket(that I will fabricate) around so i can just bolt it to the cab. That will leave the compartment itself to "float" on into the bed. Of course i will construct something for the compartment to rest on.. maybe some heavy duty rubber, like tractor trailer mud flaps(we have an abundance of them where i work). Speed bumps may still be a problem though.... actually not being attached should eliminate that problem, stainless steel is quite resiliant..
call me scotty. your plan sounds like a lot of work. have you researched the traditional way to do a blow through? cut 2 holes, use some camper shell boot to seal them together (about $7/ft at any camper shell store)

then you can build whatever you want. a lot of people make a mdf bulkhead to hide the boot.

I am not going to cover the entire truck bed with one of those nice but EXPENSIVE covers.
out of curiousity, what are you gonna cover the bed with?
 

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I understand what you wanna do but i have one main question. why? for sound? or just to say you did it?
I use to build boxes 16 years ago and to make a loud quality system you needed alot of space today a speaker dosent need nearly the amount a sq footage as they use to.
Why don't you just gat a solid cap and they make blow threws for those.
I wouldn't cut out a supporting wall out of a house why would you do it in your truck?
 

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When you cut up a supporting structural member you expose yourself to the consequences if you are in a serious wreck.

Clint
 

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i exposed myself to the consequences of a double cheeseburger earlier which may lead to heart disease.

i understand what he is trying to do. there really is no comparison to a hefty 15" woofer in a 4 cube box tuned around 32hz instead of these crappy prefab boxes with 2 shallow mount 10s.

a properly done blow through leaves most of the structural integrity in the back wall. a walk through on the other hand, id be more concerned about. a single cab hardbody:
 
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