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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I haven't yet taken the door panel off, so I wanted to ask people's advice on how to dynamat the inside of the door cavity. How did you get the dynamat inside the door cavity? Did you slip down from the top by the window, or did you fit it through the access holes?
 

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Through the access holes as best I could, then another layer below door panel (replacing the white sheet like cover...) Ideally I would have liked to get a complete cover to the door panels, but I am pretty happy with my results... I have ZERO vibration in doors no matter how much volume I crank - and I am cranking Diamond Audio amps to JL Audio XR speakers. 75W/channel @ 4ohm...

Road noise is reduced as well... I'd like to go back with a bulk kit and do floor, rear panels and ceiling, but probably won't... want other mods more :-D
 

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It took me a weekend to Dynamat my 92 Civic Hatch when I had it. Did front and rear floor pans, under the rear passenger seat, "tranny" tunnel, both rear quarter panels, lower part of both doors, all of the trunk area, the hatch itself and half of the roof (i ran out 8O ).

Remember take your time doing it. Make sure you have some kind of roller handy. No wider than 2 inches and preferrably made out of rubber (it conforms to the surface better, but i used a wooden roller with great results), use it to push out the air bubbles that WILL from. Keep an Xacto knife near by to pop air bubbles (use roller again on that area after you popped it) that didnt get pushed out by the roller. Actetone to clean your cutting tools off with. If you're using the Xtreme, IT WILL get all over your scissors/knife/whatever you are using to cut it.

Also, keep a bunch of paper handy too. I used it to make patterns so I could cover odd shaped areas. Always use the biggest piece possible for a given area (floor pans, rear passenger wall, etc.), saves time and esures that there aren't gaps which sometimes happen when you have to cut smaller pieces to fit an area. BUT, if room to manuver is tight, using small pieces placed next to each other works just as great.

Tools I used: Xacto knife, scissors, 2inch wide wooden roller, lots of paper, Sharpie pen, Acetone, pan for Acetone, shop rags, hairdyer if it's cold when you do the install (use the hairdyer to heat the Dynamat to make it more pliable, but if it's sunny just put it in the sun till you're ready to use it)

Sorry if this was long, but just wanted to pass some knowledge along so it doens't become too big of a headache.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, I am almost done with the first door. I didn't realize how big the access holes are. I cut some panels from scrap sheet metal and lined them with dynamat to close up the baffle. I was just taking my time, but before I knew it 5 hours was gone, and I'm still not done with the first door. I'll sleep well tonight.
 

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hey guys, just have a quick question. how the heck do you get the armrest off? the bottom half of the door panel i have no touble removing, but i cant seem to get the armrest off. is it held on by clips from the inside, or screws? reason im taking it off is to replace the front and rear door speakers with alpines. interesting thing is, i had enough access to pull the one speaker out of the rear door, and it was a 6.5" blaupunkt. thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
westcoastie said:
hey guys, just have a quick question. how the heck do you get the armrest off? the bottom half of the door panel i have no touble removing, but i cant seem to get the armrest off. is it held on by clips from the inside, or screws? reason im taking it off is to replace the front and rear door speakers with alpines. interesting thing is, i had enough access to pull the one speaker out of the rear door, and it was a 6.5" blaupunkt. thanks guys
Yes it is held in with tabs. Use a narrow pry bar and take your time and you'll learn the trick. There are two screws behind the arm rest that need to be removed to remove the door panel. There's another behind the door opening lever, for lack of a better term.


Everyone that helped,

The front doors are now complete. It took a combined 9 hours to do, including swapping speakers, tweeters, and cross-overs. I also made plates from sheet metal to cover the door access holes for purposes of more effectively sealing the speaker enclosure. I also dynamatted the inside and outside door skins, as well as the plastic speaker housing. The result is phenomenal. I'm very pleased with the outcome. Next weekend I guess I'll try to tackle the rear doors.
 

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Hey J thanks for the response. Ill be doint he speaker job tomorrow then. preciate it.
have you got any pics of your project?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
westcoastie said:
Hey J thanks for the response. Ill be doint he speaker job tomorrow then. preciate it.
have you got any pics of your project?
Yes I do. They were on my other computer at the time of my response, but I have access to them now.
 

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thanks for the pics, looks like you did a good job there.
 
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