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Discussion Starter #1
Other than losing a few mpg, is is bad for the transmission in any way to keep overdrive off when driving around town?
 

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NJMike, I manually shift mine all the time, in 3rd for around-town and into 4th when running a bit faster but not quite able to open it up for full highway cruising. According to my AutoMeter trans temp guage, it does not appear to change anything at all temps-wise and I find the throttle response and smoothness to be greatly enhanced. My trans usually runs around 155 to 160 indicated unless crawling through town in hot weather with the AC on, like today, where it appeared that a movie or TV sequence was being filmed downtown Baltimore and traffic was diverted into a complete snarl. A total Charlie Foxtrot but temps still hovered around 195 to 200.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
NJMike, I manually shift mine all the time, in 3rd for around-town and into 4th when running a bit faster but not quite able to open it up for full highway cruising. According to my AutoMeter trans temp guage, it does not appear to change anything at all temps-wise and I find the throttle response and smoothness to be greatly enhanced. My trans usually runs around 155 to 160 indicated unless crawling through town in hot weather with the AC on, like today, where it appeared that a movie or TV sequence was being filmed downtown Baltimore and traffic was diverted into a complete snarl. A total Charlie Foxtrot but temps still hovered around 195 to 200.
Thanks Ryan. So rather than turn O/D off, you keep it in 3rd?
 

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I have a lot of extra weight (aftermarket steel bumpers, winch, aftermarket steel skid plates ect.) and over sized LT285 tires so my my truck struggles a bit around town , so I always have the over drive turned off in town until I got out on the highway then I turn the over drive on. And like RyanD1966 I manually shift around town as well.
Never has caused me any issues.
 

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It's really more of a highway gear. I've left it off out of habit on most of my older cars unless I was on the highway.

FWIW, my car has a 6 speed auto, and in town it only goes up to 4th. It essentially locks itself out of the higher gears unless I'm going above 55, at which point it will use 5th and eventually 6th.
 

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My truck is built on 33s (32s for daily while I get the gears done). Initially an SV with 3.13 gears. On 32s shes a step slow, 33s she cant keep pace unless I shift manually. It won't hurt your trans in the least.
Nissan installed gears for mpg. It really should have 3.54 gears or better with A/T and 32s.
My Xterra P4X with 3.36 and 32s is almost workable, but I still have to turn off OD in town. I haven't decided what ratio to run in it
 

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It's really more of a highway gear. I've left it off out of habit on most of my older cars unless I was on the highway.

FWIW, my car has a 6 speed auto, and in town it only goes up to 4th. It essentially locks itself out of the higher gears unless I'm going above 55, at which point it will use 5th and eventually 6th.
What do you have that you have a 6sp Auto?
 

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What do you have that you have a 6sp Auto?
2nd gen Kia Forte5. And thankfully it's a traditional torque converter automatic.

308545


I won't win any cool points with it, but it's good on gas and the dealers practically give them away if you shop at the right time. I got about $7k off the $22k sticker, so it ended up being less expensive than many comparable late model used cars.
 

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2nd gen Kia Forte5. And thankfully it's a traditional torque converter automatic.

View attachment 308545

I won't win any cool points with it, but it's good on gas and the dealers practically give them away if you shop at the right time. I got about $7k off the $22k sticker, so it ended up being less expensive than many comparable late model used cars.
Hey, I had a hyundai elantra for over a decade, i get it.
 

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I believe you, especially since the two cars share basically the same platform!

I haven't had it long, only about 3 years, but it has given me zero problems so far.
In 12 yrs (from new) i only had 1 real issue. Intake manifold gasket let go at 94k mi. Repaired under factory warranty. Lol

Oh, and rear driver parking brake kept seizing (new england winters) just replaced calipers every 4 yrs. Under warranty....
God i loved hyundai warranty
 

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In 12 yrs (from new) i only had 1 real issue. Intake manifold gasket let go at 94k mi. Repaired under factory warranty. Lol

Oh, and rear driver parking brake kept seizing (new england winters) just replaced calipers every 4 yrs. Under warranty....
God i loved hyundai warranty
I haven't had to use it yet, but they seem pretty loose with the warranty repairs from what I've heard.

I did have to replace the splash guard under the engine, but that was my own fault, I cracked it on some ice. I think it was like $25. Replacement parts are really reasonable.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks guys. So if you’re off road on a trail and going slow, do you keep it in Drive or use 1st or 2nd instead? I’ve driven nothing but manuals the last 20 years. I guess keeping it in drive is fine as it will let the transmission determine the gear anyway.
 

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Thanks guys. So if you’re off road on a trail and going slow, do you keep it in Drive or use 1st or 2nd instead? I’ve driven nothing but manuals the last 20 years. I guess keeping it in drive is fine as it will let the transmission determine the gear anyway.
Yes.

Either/or.

You can keep it in D or you can use either 1st, 2nd or 3rd depending on your speed or if you’re going downhill & don’t wanna ride the brakes so much.
 

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Thanks guys. So if you’re off road on a trail and going slow, do you keep it in Drive or use 1st or 2nd instead? I’ve driven nothing but manuals the last 20 years. I guess keeping it in drive is fine as it will let the transmission determine the gear anyway.
I manually shift it when in 4Lo. The aim is to keep rpm @ 1600 to 2200 rpm. Climbing hills i let it rev to 3500. Decending I always use gears to control speed.
The TCM always wants to keep you in top gear which means you're usually not in power band when you need it to be. Also if you hold your gears the shifts will be firmer, less slippage when it engages.
Now if you're doing stock trails that are like fire roads, Drive is fine
 

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Other than losing a few mpg, is is bad for the transmission in any way to keep overdrive off when driving around town?
Overdrive is for Highspeed use driving in town does nothing
When overdrive is on your actually making the Truck work harder I have driven many cars with Overdrive and I only kick it in when going over 65mph

It's like my 6th Gear in my Truck it's only useful at full speed and slight inclines /Too much incline guess what have to drop the gears down

The Lower gears for hills Higher gears for Highway that's pretty much the Gist of that
 

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My truck is built on 33s (32s for daily while I get the gears done). Initially an SV with 3.13 gears. On 32s shes a step slow, 33s she cant keep pace unless I shift manually. It won't hurt your trans in the least.
Nissan installed gears for mpg. It really should have 3.54 gears or better with A/T and 32s.
My Xterra P4X with 3.36 and 32s is almost workable, but I still have to turn off OD in town. I haven't decided what ratio to run in it
My Gear Ratio is 3.69 pretty much 3.70's if you will and it's a Manual i have 33's and no loss of power

Mind you i also put a CAI and changed the Exhaust Flowmaster 40 /Also use a Pedal Commander man my Truck fly's

I was told getting a tune on these Trucks are useless the Pedal Commander pretty much takes the place of a tune you need to check it out
 

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My Gear Ratio is 3.69 pretty much 3.70's if you will and it's a Manual i have 33's and no loss of power

Mind you i also put a CAI and changed the Exhaust Flowmaster 40 /Also use a Pedal Commander man my Truck fly's

I was told getting a tune on these Trucks are useless the Pedal Commander pretty much takes the place of a tune you need to check it out
Manual makes all the difference. I was talking A/T. Also the stock gearing of SV vs P4X. Its apples & oranges. Getting a bottle tune (like Bullydog) is not useless, its just ROI. For the performance gain (small) you pay alot. You're better getting a custom tune via Uprev (also now HP tuners says it is compatible). To get the most from your intake and exhaust you need to tune. The ECM is adaptive and limits your gains to 1-2% of stock. But tuning will see a large gain from the intake/exhaust. There's a guy on NewX that did before/after of his intake/exhaust/header/tune and until the tune he saw almost no gain. But the tune unlocked all of it.
The Bullydog can do the same thing as the pedal commander, but more. All the PC is doing is a faster open/close of the butterfly. My BDGT is set to do the same. The 91 octane tune is a bump (just not as good as a custom tune) and it lets me monitor more.
The 3.36 gearing in my P4X Xterra (also automatic) is noticeable over the 3.13 in my SV Fronty, but not quite enough. If I never took it offroad I'd be satisfied as it sits, but once you add armor and heavier, taller tires... The SV should have come from factory with 3.36 and optioned 3.54 for the P4X (again talking A/T). With a manual, unless your on hard trails, you don't notice the reduction in power (because you're out of the power band) In a manual I'd want 4.10s (or an Atlas transfer case) so I wasn't roasting the clutch on hillclimb attempts. I see it all teh time with my buddy's manual. But an Atlas swap is infinitely more difficult, despite the awesome gain of 4:1, making it not a reasonable mod for a daily driven.
 
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