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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As it turns out my passenger side rear axle is leaking badly and my driver side has leaked a little at some point.
I plan on changing them both out next weekend. One of my friends claims he may be able to take my axles into work and press off/on the new seals and bearings.
I have read several threads but I still have a few questions.

I came up with 43252-7S200 for my seals. When I looked for the bearings the page only showed them for the c200k, which according to one sticky is not the rear end that I have. After a manual search I came up with 40210-7S210. Can anyone verify this, and do I need any other parts? What is a good brand of gear oil to fill back up with? Any old thing at AutoZone?
Side note, I do plan on doing the vent mod.

I saw that heat can aid the installation of bearings but not removal. Why wouldn't it work both ways? I'd like to get everything off if I can so my friend only has to press the new ones on...
Any tips or tricks you lot can throw at me would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
 

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Timken set 10 bearings. It is what is in your axle. About 25 dollar each. If you buy them from nissan it will host about 60 each for the same timkens.

If your buddy thinks he can press then off please have him make a video. I think the bolts of the mounting plate interferes with a standard bearing seperater. Would like to see how the pros do it.

Yes heat can help the removal. When I pressed off another bearing years ago we set it all up in the press and applied a reasonable about of pressure, then applied heat and the bearing popped off.

However heat applied to the bearing when it is on the shaft should be the 2nd option as the heat will expand both the inner bearing and the shaft. Ideally the bearing recieve mire heat than the shaft and or the bearing expands at a greater rate than the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Timken set 10 bearings. It is what is in your axle. About 25 dollar each. If you buy them from nissan it will host about 60 each for the same timkens.

If your buddy thinks he can press then off please have him make a video. I think the bolts of the mounting plate interferes with a standard bearing seperater. Would like to see how the pros do it.

Yes heat can help the removal. When I pressed off another bearing years ago we set it all up in the press and applied a reasonable about of pressure, then applied heat and the bearing popped off.

However heat applied to the bearing when it is on the shaft should be the 2nd option as the heat will expand both the inner bearing and the shaft. Ideally the bearing recieve mire heat than the shaft and or the bearing expands at a greater rate than the shaft.
Parts ordered. Thanks.
I believe I see what you mean about pressing them off. He didn't say that, I just assumed so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hmm

Ok CF members. So I did all the things to the best of my ability following all of the tips and advice that I could find on here.






Drove maybe 10 miles, came home and parked it. This morning I checked and could see wetness inside the dust shield. Pulled everything and saw that it is or was seeping slowly.
I do not think that the diff is overfull with oil.
I did the axle vent mod.
The oil seal surfaces were not in terrible shape. In fact the guy who pressed the bearings said he had seen much worse not leak. I wet sanded with 2000 grit to remove as many imperfections as I could. I thought it turned out well.
Is a tiny bit of initial seepage normal at all?
It was suggested to me to seal the axle tube side of the oil seal with silicone or something oil resistant. Is this wise advice?
Any suggestions are welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
So it turns out that my axle vent mod tube was kinked where I had bent it in half (to keep water out.) Hoping this is the cause of the leak, but if it is, these seals leak quite easily.
 

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Wait back up a little. So you pulled the axle, then took it to a shop to get the bearing and seals swapped. I see that you put on a new retaining plate. Then you reinstalled and it is still leaking. Auuugggg. That sucks.

I do not think that there should be any initial seepage. Mine did not. When you tightened the axle retainer nuts did you go criss cross a little or each nut at a time. Did you hear the seal squeak as it was pressed into the matting surface?

Don't think the kink in the vent would cuase a leak at only 10 miles.

Were both matting surfaces nice and pit free (on the housing and on the shaft itself). Did you use the nissan seal or mastercraft/pro seal?
 

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Timken set 10 bearings. It is what is in your axle. About 25 dollar each. If you buy them from nissan it will host about 60 each for the same timkens.

If your buddy thinks he can press then off please have him make a video. I think the bolts of the mounting plate interferes with a standard bearing seperater. Would like to see how the pros do it.

Yes heat can help the removal. When I pressed off another bearing years ago we set it all up in the press and applied a reasonable about of pressure, then applied heat and the bearing popped off.

However heat applied to the bearing when it is on the shaft should be the 2nd option as the heat will expand both the inner bearing and the shaft. Ideally the bearing recieve mire heat than the shaft and or the bearing expands at a greater rate than the shaft.


To remove the bearing, you could carefully cut it out.

For the race (of the old bearing), you can cut 90% way through and use a chisel and hammer to crack the race. In sure you could find videos on YouTube.

Installing the new bearing, a shop press is required. Hopefully yours is tall enough to accommodate such a long axle shaft.


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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wait back up a little. So you pulled the axle, then took it to a shop to get the bearing and seals swapped. I see that you put on a new retaining plate. Then you reinstalled and it is still leaking. Auuugggg. That sucks.
Yeah, the cage was bent to hell and I didn't want to take any chances.

I do not think that there should be any initial seepage. Mine did not. When you tightened the axle retainer nuts did you go criss cross a little or each nut at a time. Did you hear the seal squeak as it was pressed into the matting surface?
I didn't think so either. I did criss-cross to get it in as evenly as possible. I did not hear any squeaking. I take it that I should have?

Don't think the kink in the vent would cause a leak at only 10 miles.

Were both matting surfaces nice and pit free (on the housing and on the shaft itself). Did you use the nissan seal or mastercraft/pro seal?
I didn't think the tube would do that either. It looks as though it has leaked further. I thought the surfaces were fine and so did the guy who pressed the bearings on.
I used the Nissan seal. You used the mastercraft? Do you feel like it's better quality?

I'm going to end up doing the repair again. I just don't know when. I saw a post about someone doing it with a speedi sleeve on the axle. I'll likely try that and some industrial loctite on the housing side.

To remove the bearing, you could carefully cut it out.

For the race (of the old bearing), you can cut 90% way through and use a chisel and hammer to crack the race. In sure you could find videos on YouTube.

Installing the new bearing, a shop press is required. Hopefully yours is tall enough to accommodate such a long axle shaft.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I used my dremmel. It made quick work of everything really. Tore through those knock-off cutting wheels though. One of my coworkers had one of those orange Harbor Freight presses that worked ok.
 

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I didn't think so either. I did criss-cross to get it in as evenly as possible. I did not hear any squeaking. I take it that I should have?

I used the Nissan seal. You used the mastercraft? Do you feel like it's better quality?

I'm going to end up doing the repair again. I just don't know when. I saw a post about someone doing it with a speedi sleeve on the axle. I'll likely try that and some industrial loctite on the housing side.
Maybe something just got tweaked. Could there be a chance that the new retaining plate is different than the OEM. Somehow it is not pushing the seal in far enough. Or has bound on something. I took my ebrake stuff off when I did my job so that I got a clear shot at everything. Maybe the Axle and seal just need to pushed in further. Also surprised you did not put on new ebrake pads. Mine were soaked in gear oil and did not hold the truck worth a poop on any incline. You clean and lightly sand the braking surface to rid it of the oil and reuse.

I lightly greased up the seal surfaces prior to install and was surprised to hear the seal go in. It made a very satisfying squeak squeak squeak with every turn of the ratchet.

I used the Nissan seal. Was just curious about the ORiely one. Since the Nissan one does not seem like the end all to sealing issues, just wondering if the generic would be any better.

If it makes you feel any better, I pressed on the new seal, bearing, and locking collar. All proud I was about to reinstall my "new" axle assembly on the truck. I look over at the pile of parts and discover the retaining plate was not install. I had to buy new bearings, and cut the bearing I just installed off. I was somehow able to save the old seal and did not damage it during the cutting. I made a shield for it with a scrap piece of aluminum angle iron. Call me a BONE HEAD!!! At least you did everything right.

Looking at your picture I can tell how to use a bearing separator. PRESS OUT the STUDS of the retaining plate first. I thought that is reason why you put on a new retaining plate, as you might have damaged the studs or the plate in the process. Funny how the factory service manual, which goes into so much DETAIL about everything, simply says press off the bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Maybe something just got tweaked. Could there be a chance that the new retaining plate is different than the OEM. Somehow it is not pushing the seal in far enough. Or has bound on something. I took my ebrake stuff off when I did my job so that I got a clear shot at everything. Maybe the Axle and seal just need to pushed in further. Also surprised you did not put on new ebrake pads. Mine were soaked in gear oil and did not hold the truck worth a poop on any incline. You clean and lightly sand the braking surface to rid it of the oil and reuse.

I lightly greased up the seal surfaces prior to install and was surprised to hear the seal go in. It made a very satisfying squeak squeak squeak with every turn of the ratchet.

I used the Nissan seal. Was just curious about the ORiely one. Since the Nissan one does not seem like the end all to sealing issues, just wondering if the generic would be any better.

If it makes you feel any better, I pressed on the new seal, bearing, and locking collar. All proud I was about to reinstall my "new" axle assembly on the truck. I look over at the pile of parts and discover the retaining plate was not install. I had to buy new bearings, and cut the bearing I just installed off. I was somehow able to save the old seal and did not damage it during the cutting. I made a shield for it with a scrap piece of aluminum angle iron. Call me a BONE HEAD!!! At least you did everything right.

Looking at your picture I can tell how to use a bearing separator. PRESS OUT the STUDS of the retaining plate first. I thought that is reason why you put on a new retaining plate, as you might have damaged the studs or the plate in the process. Funny how the factory service manual, which goes into so much DETAIL about everything, simply says press off the bearing.
Anything is possible. I bought the retaining plates from the local Nissan dealer and he used my VIN. They didn't look any different but I didn't subject them to much scrutiny.
I did actually replace the ebrake pads, though they're probably soaked in oil again. I should be grateful that it's a much slower leak. I can see its wet, but it hasn't dripped to the rim at all. Nothing like the puddles I had before.
I'll probably just use O-Reilly products next time.
I saw your thread after I started on mine. I felt bad for you having to go through that again. I did the best I could, but who knows if it was right. I don't think I'll save the seals since they've leaked once.
Oh and I did grease the seals up, so they shouldn't have bound up or anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was just speaking with the guy that pressed the bearings and he said he didn't see anything that a speedi-sleeve would fix. If I do anything I'll just try to seal the housing side of the seal. Probably just do shocks and tires next unless it gets worse. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 

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I was just speaking with the guy that pressed the bearings and he said he didn't see anything that a speedi-sleeve would fix. If I do anything I'll just try to seal the housing side of the seal. Probably just do shocks and tires next unless it gets worse. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Dude. I just drove my truck for 10 hours and I thought about your truck for 25% of it. 299 is desolate.

Wasn't your brake caliper leaking. And weren't you dead certain that it was the caliper leaking.

If you touch/smell the leak now...

"A drop of oil in a barrel of wine..."
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Dude. I just drove my truck for 10 hours and I thought about your truck for 25% of it. 299 is desolate.

Wasn't your brake caliper leaking. And weren't you dead certain that it was the caliper leaking.

If you touch/smell the leak now...

"A drop of oil in a barrel of wine..."
I thought it was. I replaced it too.

I pulled the rotor off, it's definitely seeping from the axle.


Are you saying I'm wrong all the time? Because it does seem likely at this point. lol
 

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Ha. Ha

Was just hoping for your sake that it was not the axle leaking.

At least you know how to do the job now.
 
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