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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, since I had to go through the ordeal of replacing my alternator, I figured I would help out anyone else who needed to do this in the future. Most common reason for an alternator failure on a Nissan truck? Muddy water crossings. Gets gunk up in the bearings, leading to a slow, noisy death.

As with all write-ups, i take no responsibility for what you do to your truck. I am not a certified technician, so take my advice/tips at your own risk.

Additionally, use all proper precautions when working on your vehicle. Wear gloves and eye protection at all times to prevent accidents.


Without further ado, here we go: Alternator Replacement - 2005+ VQ40DE

Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Remember to write down your radio presets.



Remove the 2 bolts holding down the engine cover and pop it up and out of the way. Loosen the clamps on both ends of your intake tube. Remove the 2 bolts holding it down and maneuver the intake tube out of the way.



Use a 3/8" socket wrench or breaker bar on the spring tensioner to remove the serpentine belt from the alternator.



Chock you rear tires and jack up the front-passenger side wheel. Set a jack stand and remove the pressure from the jack. Remove the front-passenger tire. Remove about 6 screws and 4 plastic retainers from the inner fender and remove the inner fender cover. This will give you all the access you need to get to the alternator.



The alternator is pretty much right behind the fender liner.



There is 1 long bolt and 1 short bolt holding the alternator in place. Start by removing the short bolt, which in on the lower side attached by a metal bracket to the alternator. Loosen the bolt on the other end of the bracket so it swings down a little and out of the way. Loosen the upper long bolt on the alternator, but don't remove it completely just yet.

Behind the coil bucket, locate the electrical connections for the alternator. There is one plastic clip with the main wires and a ground bolt. Remove both of these connections.



While you're back there, remove the retaining clips/zip ties that are holding a large bundle of wires to the back of the alternator. Do not try to pry the clips from the alternator. Instead, the zip ties can be undone (reusable zip ties) so you can remove the retainer itself later. Slip the wire bundle out of the way.

At this point, you may want to look at the front of the alternator to make sure there are no wires/hoses in the way of removal. Finagle anything out of the way and get back to that upper long bolt.

Remove the upper long bolt and maneuver the alternator out of the engine bay.



This is what a filthy alternator with shot bearings looks like:



As compared to this shiny new (rebuilt) one:



Here's what your engine compartment should look like at this point. Nice and empty.



Install is reverse of removal. Remove the zip-tie clips from the back of the old alternator and reinstall them on the new one. Finagle it back into the engine bay and line up the bolt holes for the long upper bolt. Connect the lower bolt through the bracket. Connect the ground and main power harness to the alternator. Torque down the bolts to factory specs.

Check out this awesomely quiet, clean alternator:



Reinstall the serpentine belt, intake tube and engine cover. Re-connect the negative terminal of the battery. Start 'er up. Enjoy the noiseless engine for a minute or two before you shut it back down.



Put the fender liner back in and button it up. Put the wheel back on and torque the lugs to factory specs. Jack up the truck to remove the jack stand.





Clean up your tools and tend to your bloody knuckles and arms while enjoying your handiwork.

Hope this write-up helps someone muster the courage to save a few bucks and tackle this project themselves. It really wasn't all too bad, took me and a friend about an hour and a half from start to finish with regular hand tools, and I wanted to pass along the knowledge.

Good luck!
 

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thats an awesome write up man, i willl be doing this in the future
 

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wasnt it fun? when i did mine I didnt bother to take the wheel well out, and it was a PITA. Nice write up too!

I still have the old pulley off of mine, I'd been trying to get Aaron92se (NWP Engineering) to cut out some Alt. Pulleys, but I dont think he wants to :(
 

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What should a typical replacement alternator cost? and is there any difference in quality among some of the ones available? I looked at Rock Auto and they have a cheap one brand TYC for 125.00 with No core! and then on the high end an ACDelco for $202.79 and a $63.00 core charge. They all say 110amp. Autozone said 237 plus 75.00 core charge.

link to Rock Auto-> 2006 NISSAN FRONTIER Alternator / Generator
 

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What should a typical replacement alternator cost? and is there any difference in quality among some of the ones available? I looked at Rock Auto and they have a cheap one brand TYC for 125.00 with No core! and then on the high end an ACDelco for $202.79 and a $63.00 core charge. They all say 110amp. Autozone said 237 plus 75.00 core charge.

link to Rock Auto-> 2006 NISSAN FRONTIER Alternator / Generator
I usually opt for a NAPA alternator with the lifetime warranty. The last time I bought one was for my 95 Hardbody. It was somewhere around $200 for a reman. It was the same brand as the OEM part.
 

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Im not 100% its the alternator, but I have a squeak, squeak as the truck runs, standing still or driving. It appears to come from that area and I suspected it was the bearing going bad in it.
 

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It will get worse. my new alternator is in the garage now awaiting installation. The squeaking turned to growling and its bad enough to replace. What I need is a shield of sorts that is feed fresh air fro the top of the motor to keep it cool. This is the 2nd replacement due to mud and gook fouling up the bearings. still charges just fine but the noise is driving me crazy.
 

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Awesome!

Thank you for the post! Great Instructions.

And Muddy Water Crossings....

Yuuuuup. I done a few of them.

Well, here goes...
 

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I've got to do it once found that yoga helped to get that ALT out in my 06 . yes there is swearing in yoga . "finagle" translates into "How does that come out of there ?" Great write up I think I might soon be replacing another sound is driving me nuts thought bad tensioners were the culprit . I was wrong I've got pulley problems.
 

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Very useful info, thanks for sharing.

This will no doubt help some people in the future.
I just did mine; it's 2019 and my Frontier is a 06 4x4 KC SE "rusty frame" variety. only 56k miles but Definitely the only way to do this job is from the side; saw other videos coming in from the top, but that is ridiculous. You'd never get the removable ties off for the wiring that way. Great video. Mine took me 3 hrs; I'm old and was swearing like a sailor after breaking off the bolt to the lower mount, but realized it was going to stay in the alternator going to the graveyard anyway. Easier with two hands. Especially the install part.

thanks for the pics.
 

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Just one comment, the wire on the stud with the nut is not a ground, it is the output wire, you mention a "ground bolt" not sure if you are referring to what I mentioned or if there is an actual ground, just wanted to comment to clarify.
 
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