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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all. I know that this is going to sound like dead-horse beating, but I have been thusfar unwilling to do the 'traditional' foglight mod that has been on the various forums to make the '05-'07 Fronty's stock foglights work with the running lights.

For some background, the stock Fronty foglights are actuated by a switch on the left steering column control but only come on when the headlights are on. This is by design and the control of the switch is all by computer so seemingly simple traditional mods dont work.

After looking at the schematics and seeing what others have done, I have made up my own mod that is similar, but in some cases a bit more dramatic. It has its advantages, so here goes:

The current mod has you jumping the fused high-current load side of the foglights and 'adding' this load to the running lights etc. I know that many have no issues with this, but I thought there had to be a better way that didnt involve increasing load to the current circuits. There are separate relays there for a reason so utilizing only their OEM purpose was key.

Also, the current mod renders the functionality of the fog lamp switch on the stalk useless since now your fogs are on/off with whatever circuit you piggybacked on. I have an obsession with keeping all my truck switches and parts as stock as possible, so this was definately out. Plus, I am a control freak.

The mod I did uses the low current side of the same circuit modified in the other procedure but finds a different 'trigger' for the relay ground instead of the computer supplying the signal. Simply grounding that pin anywhere on the truck makes the foglamps come on no matter what the rest of the truck is doing. This is all at the current draw of a micro-relay which is a couple of mA.

To control the foglamps after that you have to supply a switch of some type between it and a common grounding point. You could run the wire into the cab and to a separate switch... OR:

Do what I did and modify the foglamp switch on the steering column so it works all OEM. I took the back off of the combination switch and found that the foglamp switch has two wires seprately attached to the circuit board. A simple modification by splicing two wires made it all possible.

My results accomplished the following:
1) all low current switching operations, with no load multiplication on other circuits.
2) full OEM control of the fog lamps which will work at anytime.


I cant be responsible for what anyone who wants to try this gets as a result since it's based upon your personal skillset and comfort level. But I will list what is necessary below along with the pics (link) I took along the way. Honestly anyone that can locate a relay, do some light soldering and run some wire can handle this job.

Here are some pics:

http://vulcan.booth236.net/yappa-ng/index.php?album=%2F2007_Nissan_Frontier%2FFog_Lamp_Conversion

username is = 'pics' password is = 'm00c0w' where 0=zeros

1) Find the Foglamp relay and remove it.
The foglamp relay is on the IPDM board which is in the square black box under the hood on the passenger side. Remove the cover and you will see the IPDM mounted at an angle facing the front of the truck. It's pretty rugged so dont be afraid to depress the white slide clips on each side and pull up on the entire board (wires attached). Rotate it until you are comfortable seeing the row of relays in front of you. It should be on the end of the board near the big thick red and white wires. You can have a friend cycle JUST the foglamps while feeling the relays to ensure that you have the right one. If its clicking, thats it. Carefully wiggle it loose.

2) Locate the ground pin.
With the relay in your hand you will notice 2 silver blade pins and 2 brass blade pins. The brass ones are the low current side. You need to find the negative side of the socket. If you look down into the socket, see the two holes where the brass pins go. If you use the big red and white wire plug as a guide, the ground lead inside the socket is nearest that. Orient the relay so you know which brass blade pin this is and you are good. By all means you can test all of this with a multimeter. Set it to read DC Voltage, ground the multimeter and probe the female connectors in the socket. There will be two at 12V, two with nothing. The one which shows nothing which corresponds to the brass blade pin on the relay is your money-shot.

3) Attach a lead to the relay.
Solder a 20-22Ga insulated wire lead to the brass blade pin you identified on the relay. Secure it close to the base of the relay with the wire pointing out the narrow end. Bend the wire up towards the top of the relay. This orientation should ensure that the wire you attach wont interfere with plugging the relay back into the socket. The length of the wire shouldnt have to be more than 5-6 feet total, and I suggest connectors in between the relay and the cab, cab and the switch, etc so plan accordingly.

4) Run the lead wire inside the cab.
This is all you! I used the wire entry point at the firewall near the black box. There is a lot of advice on the forum on how to run a wire from the engine compartment into the cab so I wont elaborate. Get the wire in and over the the steering column.

5) Take the multi-switch out.
Under the steering wheel where the tilt adjustment is, you will notice three screw holes. Remove these phillips screws and pry apart the plasitc housing around the steering column. It may take some coaxing, but they do come apart. At the base of the control stalk on the left mulit-switch you will notice its white plastic body. At each side there is a small white tab. Press in on each tab and pull the mulit-switch out twoards the driver door. You will have the entire unit in your hands.

6) Modify multi-swtch.
This thing is $$$ so be careful. The switch has a black plastic bottom and two screws at the half-round of the stalk. Remove the two phillips screws and release the three tabs around the perimeter of the plastic bottom. With the circuit board exposed you will see two wires in a plasitc sheath connected to the circuit board. Cut this green and blue wire at the board and strip some insulation from each lead. Using more 20-22Ga wire splice leads on to the green and blue wires of about 18" each. Please take the time to solder, tape (shrink tubing is better) and secure this properly. You will want to take a file and notch the plastic cover on one of the sides to allow the leads passage from the switch. You may reattach the cover, and replace the switch running the wires down the column. Be aware of the moving parts of the column and avoid these areas.

7) Ground and go!
Pick one lead and secure it to a metal surface. I like the D40 frontys, they have lots of steel framing under the dash to ground stuff to. Take the other wire and splice it to the one you ran in from the engine compartment.

8 ) Plug in the relay and test.
Carefully install the relay you previously removed. Its show time when you actuate the foglamp switch on the stalk. If you have foglights, then you are Ginnin.

9) Button it all back up.
If there is no smoke you are good to go.

10) Additional steps.
I wanted a more OEM feel and didnt want to accidently leave the fogs on, etc so I added a relay (5.99 at the Rad-Shack) in between the wire and the switch. I placed it in the black box under the hood and actuated the relay off of the tail light circuit like in the original MOD. This way at least the running lights have to be on for the fogs to work. Of course you can use a separate circuit like the ignition so the key or engine would have to be on, whatever floats your boat. This requires some breadboarding, soldering and wire-tapping so if you want all-that, email me.


Enjoy this uber-long post and I hope I dont lead anyone down the path of destruction. EMAIL ME if you have any questions or issues with my writeup or want a specific picture added to the gallery. Again, no responsibility.. blah blah.

Thanks,

booth236
 

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Great write up very informative and should help alot of the guys out big time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Aussie, just reverse all the left and the right stuff and let me know how it goes! :)


-B
 

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Hey B,
Great write up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Added some more pics. Also of optional relay package. See first post for viewing instructions.

-Booth236
 

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Did you have to get a new "stalk" I believe is what you called it, because the one I have now doesn't turn where the fog light switch is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
XEFrontier05, do you currently have factory foglights? Is the relay present on the IPDM board? I am willing to help you individually but what I wrote about is on my '07 Nismo with the factory foglights. If all the components are there but no foglamp switch on the 'stalk' then how do they turn on now? You can always send a snapshot to [email protected] and I will be happy to take a look.

booth236
 

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:goodjob: Excellent write up!

I had a performance center do the same thing. Fog lights come on with the parking lights. They used the same stalk as came in the truck. I had no idea how they did it.

BTW.... When I hit the high beams my fog lights stay on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Then your mod is close to the same as mine.. I would be interested to see if they used the relay idea like I did.
 

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Very nice!!! I will have to compare your wiring to the factory schematic to understand it. I was just going to use a fuse tap. However, I was going to use a low current switch to energize a relay and feed the high current side of the fuse through the fuse tap.. If the factory relay isn't energized, than nothing is getting back fed. If it is energized, then who cares.
 

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Little Red Wagen said:
:goodjob: Excellent write up!

I had a performance center do the same thing. Fog lights come on with the parking lights. They used the same stalk as came in the truck. I had no idea how they did it.

BTW.... When I hit the high beams my fog lights stay on.
Sounds to me like they got hold of the Factory drawings for a Navara cos thats exactly what we get factory

I am not sure what they call it over yonder but here first click on the lights is called Park lights. If you wire the Fogs to only work when the Parks are on then tis all good as they are alwats on Hi or Lo beam and in fact its Law here to have them working with the Parks or Parking Lights. No them aint the lights you use when you go parking and watch the Submarine Races lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I would assume that if the factory did it, all they had to do was modify the program that intrepreted the switch position registers for the foglamps. So, US=on_with_headlamps and AUS=on_with_park (we call them running-lights here)

So I doubt that you would actually see any wiring differences, just a factory adjustment to the programming.
 

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I would assume that if the factory did it, all they had to do was modify the program that intrepreted the switch position registers for the foglamps. So, US=on_with_headlamps and AUS=on_with_park (we call them running-lights here)

So I doubt that you would actually see any wiring differences, just a factory adjustment to the programming.
So is there a way to change the programming?
 

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2019 Frontier SV4x4, CCLB, Pioneer DMH-1500NEX, Pro4X wheels, power rear-slider mod, Bambi-mode
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Hi, fellas. Just bought a 2019 and was reading posts, thinking through this and have a question:

In order to trigger off the parking lights (or wherever), why not clip and tap into the hot-side of the relay triggering circuit instead of the ground-side? Very low amperage - not lamp load.)

You still need to bypass at the switch, but this way you don’t need the additional relay/circuit.

So:
  • Bypass switch
  • Clip wire from harness to relay (leave enough to connect to)
  • Run wire from switch to clipped wire at box
  • Run wire from switch to parking light hot lead

Am I missing something here or would this indeed be simpler?

Would also have the advantage of being (mostly) invisible to a Nissan tech if they went into underhood box, if you work carefully and use a well-hidden black wire...
 

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2019 Frontier SV4x4, CCLB, Pioneer DMH-1500NEX, Pro4X wheels, power rear-slider mod, Bambi-mode
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Meant to say FUSED wire from parking lights to switch...
 
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