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I did a quick run through the stickies and common problems but didn't see much talk about the alldogs rear diff vent. Has anyone put this on their rig? And what do you think of it? Year mileage..thanks!
Alldogs rear diff breather
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All dogs is a fairly new company. Might not get a lot of traction with this question.
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It's "just" a rear differential breather. Not really like it's a "performance" mod, other than it'll keep pressure from rupturing seals. get an appropriately threaded fitting, hose clamps, run some hose up high enough so as to not be submerged, slap a filter on the end of the hose & you're done.
Most folks don't buy anyone's kit. About $12 in parts & a few minutes of effort & you're done.
Just about any fitting is an improvement over the stock breather.
Most folks don't buy anyone's kit. About $12 in parts & a few minutes of effort & you're done.
Just about any fitting is an improvement over the stock breather.
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376 Posts
My concern with the OEM breather was vacuum after the differential cooled, more
than pressure. The vent is designed to relieve pressure as the unit heats up but
seal tight as it cools. That creates a very strong vacuum which is only
relieved by a bad breather valve or bad axle seals. Either way it can let dirt
or water into the case. I guess that's why most people also extend a vent line
up to a clean area. I don't think the Alldogs unit fixes that.
than pressure. The vent is designed to relieve pressure as the unit heats up but
seal tight as it cools. That creates a very strong vacuum which is only
relieved by a bad breather valve or bad axle seals. Either way it can let dirt
or water into the case. I guess that's why most people also extend a vent line
up to a clean area. I don't think the Alldogs unit fixes that.
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Darn I was hoping to get a little more feedback. The reasons I get nervous about a filter behind the tail light is I've seen guys talking about moister condensing in the line and dripping back in the diff that way. And to me running lines through frame holes and body panel holes makes me think it will rub through the rubber line and be open to the atmosphere. I've had that happen to me on other vehicles
I got the off-road gorilla kit with the plastic filter and so far so good. I’ve checked for moisture in the filter a few times and haven’t seen it yet. Not saying it doesn’t happen but I’m not sure how much of a concern it is. I still gotta do more reading on that detail of the whole thing. But for now I feel confident with the kit.
I’ve thought about removing the filter because if you look at the front axle, the hose that Nissan runs from it just comes up into the engine bay and then they loop it so the end is facing downwards with no filter. Presumably to ensure nothing can fall down the hose and also to trap moisture maybe? Not totally sure. But again, I’ve got some more reading to do on the whole thing. My friends new Jeep has a hose on the rear axle from the factory but I’ve yet to see where they route it and if they use a filter yet.
I’ve thought about removing the filter because if you look at the front axle, the hose that Nissan runs from it just comes up into the engine bay and then they loop it so the end is facing downwards with no filter. Presumably to ensure nothing can fall down the hose and also to trap moisture maybe? Not totally sure. But again, I’ve got some more reading to do on the whole thing. My friends new Jeep has a hose on the rear axle from the factory but I’ve yet to see where they route it and if they use a filter yet.
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I just got the Off-road Gorilla kit m myself. Just have not installed yet.
Just buy the parts and do it yourself. Cheaper and it works. I have had mine on for 80K+ miles and no issues. If there were to be a drip of condensation getting in it wont destruct anything.
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The Diff probably generates condensation anyways with always going from hot to cold so little drips from that line won't affect it as you're specifying.
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Only did it to get it up out of the way from the majority of crap. Doorman barbed vent.
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5,237 Posts
My take on it. Total was about $39.00. Walmart off-road trail sippy bottle modified to protect a K&N crankcase breather. Some folk on here are using lawn mower fuel filters, okay, no harm, no foul, but IMHO fuel filters are for fuel and breathers are for gasses, I prefer to use a product made for what's passing through it. Never had any issues after installation, bottle is up behind right taillamp assembly in the space between inner and outer bed shell sheetmetal.
www.clubfrontier.org
Pillar of Autumn Build Thread
So its time to get this build thread started, found out Kyocera smart phones aren't the best camera's in the world, I think I'll start using the DSLR going forward, but anyhow, after the axle vent mod, it was time to get lighting and transmission cooling started. I have the trans cooling fan...
www.clubfrontier.org
I just bought one for my 2005 because it's 15yrs old & looks rusty like alot of the undercarriage...but I pulled out the factory one & it functions perfectly. I blow through it & hear the valve pop open easily, then suck & is shut off completely plus the cap moves freely, granted my '05 has only 32k miles, which is also why I will never put my rear end under water intentionally.
The Alldogs unit is Stainless steel👍but blowing through it's stationary membrane is very hard, so I put back in my factory breather for now. It was only $15 shipped & comes with a cool decal which would be worth $5 itself. I don't know how much air pressure release is needed to keep the seals from blowing or what the Alldogs pressure release rating is...but in comparison I feel that the Alldogs' presure release is like a clogged factory unit🤔
So there's that for everyone
View attachment 323134
I just went to go put on the ADO rear diff breather today and then got to thinking about if it was really a good replacement option. Then I read on FB of a guy who had his rear diff fail because of the ADO breather. Then I did some research and found this post. I pulled the ADO breather and tried to blow through it - it feels like a clogged and rusted OEM breather would. Actually not very reassuring. Put my OEM breather back on for now since it only has 1600 miles on it.
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1,270 Posts
I just used the Toyota barb i bought online. Forgot the part number then ran tubing up to taillight. Used an old weedeater gas filter (I know, ghetto) that I had and hose clamped that on. If you think about it the front diff just uses a downturn tube by the airbox....no worries. Just save the oem vent incase your diff grenades and you're still in warranty!
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ADO makes very good stuff overall but I take exception with this one. This idea is junk, regardless. You're going to submerge your axle vent and then depend on a selective membrane to keep water out when you could just move it up behind your taillamp, install a $7.95 K&N breather filter on the end and call it a day, which is exactly what I did, except I went one step further and placed it inside a $5.99 sports drink cup from WalMart, with the drinking tube ripped out. Its now 3' off the road surface and is protected from getting wet by the plastic housing. Done and done.
Resurrecting this older thread to chime in on the ADO breather kit. I went for it as well and had similar concerns as those being expressed here. Completely restrictive, not very reassuring, so I emailed and got this back:
This is normal. Our breather is not a mechanical pop valve like the factory unit. It’s a membrane. What you’ll notice is that if you blow slowly air passes through just fine. The breather is constantly diffusing and equalizing pressure rather than after sufficient pressure has built up. It also is bi-directional whereas factory is a one way valve.
This eased my mind some, so I went ahead and installed it but still felt kind iffy. I should have listened to my gut. First extended drive out and when I'm nearly home I start smelling gear oil. Not good. Get home and crawl under to have a look and there is fluid being forced past my drain plug (most certainly has NEVER done that before) and it's damp around the fitting (where it goes into the axle). I immediately email again and get another quick response:
Make sure the zip ties are not too tight and causing a crimp to hose if you have the relocate. You don’t want to restrict the hose. Heat is normal. Dampness around fitting is not. The fitting may not be snug enough if it’s allowing gear oil through. Anything is possible but it’s unlikely.
I know beyond any shadow of a doubt it's not kinked or crushed, I double, triple and quadruple checked. I'm not some novice mechanic by any stretch, I've always done my own maintenance and repairs so obviously a quick job like this is like a walk in the park. I'm not so incompetent that I'd crush a breather hose.
Anyway, just wanted to share my experience. I'll definitely be removing that membrane before I take the truck out again, just keeping my fingers crossed it didn't make anything worse than it already was as there was previously the tiniest leak at one of the seals, which I was planning on repairing in the coming weeks.
This is normal. Our breather is not a mechanical pop valve like the factory unit. It’s a membrane. What you’ll notice is that if you blow slowly air passes through just fine. The breather is constantly diffusing and equalizing pressure rather than after sufficient pressure has built up. It also is bi-directional whereas factory is a one way valve.
This eased my mind some, so I went ahead and installed it but still felt kind iffy. I should have listened to my gut. First extended drive out and when I'm nearly home I start smelling gear oil. Not good. Get home and crawl under to have a look and there is fluid being forced past my drain plug (most certainly has NEVER done that before) and it's damp around the fitting (where it goes into the axle). I immediately email again and get another quick response:
Make sure the zip ties are not too tight and causing a crimp to hose if you have the relocate. You don’t want to restrict the hose. Heat is normal. Dampness around fitting is not. The fitting may not be snug enough if it’s allowing gear oil through. Anything is possible but it’s unlikely.
I know beyond any shadow of a doubt it's not kinked or crushed, I double, triple and quadruple checked. I'm not some novice mechanic by any stretch, I've always done my own maintenance and repairs so obviously a quick job like this is like a walk in the park. I'm not so incompetent that I'd crush a breather hose.
Anyway, just wanted to share my experience. I'll definitely be removing that membrane before I take the truck out again, just keeping my fingers crossed it didn't make anything worse than it already was as there was previously the tiniest leak at one of the seals, which I was planning on repairing in the coming weeks.
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