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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't mean to tick anyone off but I've searched and can't find much help. The problem: I have a 2k frontier and have the Calmini UCAs installed. Got my torsion bars re-indexed and had the mechanic crank the bars providing a gap between the a-arm and bumpstop. However, at near-to-maxed out, both of my tires had awful camber.....kinda like this / \ I asked the mechanic to lower the bars down some and my left wheel still had some negative camber to it. The mechanic says that i'll probably have to re-install my oem UCAs, which i dont want to do.:censor: Whats wrong with the alignment? the mechanic says he can't align it because it has, i believe -3 camber (the left wheel). How close should i be able to align my trucks camber? Does anyone have the instructions for the Calmini UCAs?......better yet, a write-up would be nice. thanks for bothering to read this long post:)
 

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Check out my thread "The Story of my Bad Balljoint" If that helps, I have the opposite problem, with too much positive camber. You can adjust your camber +/- 2 degrees via the camber bolts. So you should be able to get within 1 degree using the bolts but your mechanic should know that..And then lowering it another inch or so would get you within spec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check out my thread "The Story of my Bad Balljoint" If that helps, I have the opposite problem, with too much positive camber. You can adjust your camber +/- 2 degrees via the camber bolts. So you should be able to get within 1 degree using the bolts but your mechanic should know that..And then lowering it another inch or so would get you within spec.
thanks 00frontier4cyl. I lowered the truck but the alignment shop said that i would more than likely have to remove the calmini arms. they said that the arms were at a bad angle and they would wear the balljoints out. it was late and they didnt get a chance to actually mess with my truck. anyone have a solution?:confused:
 

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Im not too familiar with the Calmini arms, but as long as they are only slightly longer than stock then its all bs I think. My alignment shop told me the same thing, that it could not be aligned due to aftermarket control arms. After I cranked the tbars up it really does seem that my camber has come back in to within spec, but I need it confirmed by an alignment. By adjusting the ride height you affect the geometry of the vehicle and alignment, but does the alignment shop mess with the tbars? Of course not.
 

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My old numbers were left front had 1.6 degrees of positive camber and right front had 1.0 degrees of positive camber, which made the vehicle pull to the left aswell. Im almost positive its more within spec now, the vehicle tracks much straighter as well. I'm hoping I can talk to a mechanic about adjusting the tbars AND the camber bolts to get the alignment right. Otherwise I'll get my torsions equal as best I can and just have the camber checked again.

Any more info on your situation?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I won't get to use the truck until the weekend. Been driving my dads yukon. I'm hoping that the alignment shop is able to align my truck by messing with the alignment bolts AND the torsion bars as well. Otherwise, ill have a truck that will be "nose down" for a while. I hope i don't have to remove the blocks in the rear, etc, etc, cuz that will only be more money and time I don't have. :(
 

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My UCAs (not Calmini) are like 3/4 of an inch from the bumpstops, nearly maxed out like you stated yours were, and I can still get a good alignment. Something just doesn't seem right here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My UCAs (not Calmini) are like 3/4 of an inch from the bumpstops, nearly maxed out like you stated yours were, and I can still get a good alignment. Something just doesn't seem right here.
i dont see why they shouldnt be alignable. if they do align, (i have about a 3/4 inch gap), ill probably remove the 2" blocks in the rear and try to get a near level ride setup. Hertz, what setup are you using for the rear suspension?
 

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Im not too familiar with the Calmini arms, but as long as they are only slightly longer than stock then its all bs I think. My alignment shop told me the same thing, that it could not be aligned due to aftermarket control arms. After I cranked the tbars up it really does seem that my camber has come back in to within spec, but I need it confirmed by an alignment. By adjusting the ride height you affect the geometry of the vehicle and alignment, but does the alignment shop mess with the tbars? Of course not.
just an FYI, aftermarket a-arms for 4x4s are NOT longer then stock

they just have a better ball-joint angle
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
just an FYI, aftermarket a-arms for 4x4s are NOT longer then stock

they just have a better ball-joint angle
isn't there only one AC UCA for both 2wd/4wd? not sure i worded that correctly. but aren't all calmini and AC a-arms the same for 2wd/4wd?:confused:
 

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I believe he is completely right, same length just different angles. And in the 2wd vs 4x4 suspension thread we determined the 2wd and 4wd suspension is the same, but the 4cyl and 6cyl are not. My alignment is looking good, tracking straight, still not to alignment shop yet though. With the aftermarket control arms and a torsion lift, you should definately be able to get a correct alignment like hertz said, even though my shop said otherwise.
 

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I believe he is completely right, same length just different angles. And in the 2wd vs 4x4 suspension thread we determined the 2wd and 4wd suspension is the same, but the 4cyl and 6cyl are not. My alignment is looking good, tracking straight, still not to alignment shop yet though. With the aftermarket control arms and a torsion lift, you should definately be able to get a correct alignment like hertz said, even though my shop said otherwise.
your sorta correct

the 4wd, 2wd desert runner and the 2wd crew cab have all the same suspension

the 2wd 4 banger, and 2wd king/reg cab V6 are different, they use a single mount LCA with tension rods and smaller UCAs

4x4parts sells both of the different lift arms
 

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I have the same problem with my Calmini UCAs. My Camber and Caster are totally screwed! I have had my truck a couple of places and they say its impossible to align my truck????? WTF? I asked my mechanic if I lowered my truck did he think I may be able to get it alinged an he said it "may help a little but you will never get it right"

I even wrote Calmini and asked them if it was possible they sent me the wrong UCAs and they said "no" and that I should be able to get it alinged "as long as it was lifted only 3" ".

Is anyone having the same troubles with the AC UCAs?


Also does anyone think balljoint spacers will or could help?
 

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I have the same problem with my Calmini UCAs. My Camber and Caster are totally screwed! I have had my truck a couple of places and they say its impossible to align my truck????? WTF? I asked my mechanic if I lowered my truck did he think I may be able to get it alinged an he said it "may help a little but you will never get it right"

I even wrote Calmini and asked them if it was possible they sent me the wrong UCAs and they said "no" and that I should be able to get it alinged "as long as it was lifted only 3" ".

Is anyone having the same troubles with the AC UCAs?


Also does anyone think balljoint spacers will or could help?
guys, the reason you are not able to get your truck aligned is because your UCA mounts are becoming elongated... they usually are a nice oval, but over time, wear elongates the oval allowing to much adjustment which can even cause wondering of the chamber bolts (alignment guy sets it perfect and then first bump you hit, the chamber is completely effed)

my drivers side was this way, to fix it, you will need to replace the whole mount

also, BJ spacers helped some with this because it put less pressure on the chamber bolts, making them less prone to wondering
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
guys, the reason you are not able to get your truck aligned is because your UCA mounts are becoming elongated... they usually are a nice oval, but over time, wear elongates the oval allowing to much adjustment which can even cause wondering of the chamber bolts (alignment guy sets it perfect and then first bump you hit, the chamber is completely effed)

my drivers side was this way, to fix it, you will need to replace the whole mount

also, BJ spacers helped some with this because it put less pressure on the chamber bolts, making them less prone to wondering
hmmm. the alignment shop says the calminis seem to be not long enough. but idk. what would the mount cost to replace?
 

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hmmm. the alignment shop says the calminis seem to be not long enough. but idk. what would the mount cost to replace?
aftermarket arms arent longer, so thats not your problem... let me ask you a question, how did you remove your old chamber bolts?

for reference, heres some UCA mounts

first pic, this is what an upper mount SHOULD look like:


this is what they look like when they get elongated and or worn:




i will bet thats your problem

if you have to sawzall out your old UCAs, the blade could of caught casing it to bend in the pic as well
 

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aftermarket arms arent longer, so thats not your problem... let me ask you a question, how did you remove your old chamber bolts?

for reference, heres some UCA mounts

first pic, this is what an upper mount SHOULD look like:


this is what they look like when they get elongated and or worn:




i will bet thats your problem

if you have to sawzall out your old UCAs, the blade could of caught casing it to bend in the pic as well

Josh,

I am 99.9% sure this is NOT MY problem. I wish my camber bolt holes were longer because that would help fix some of my camber problem. If I could make my cam bolt hole longer towards the outside (of the truck) and not have any negative effects on the CV joints I would do it to fix my camber and caster.

Thanks for the input though Josh. Maybe this is someone elses problem but not mine.

Also: So you DO recommend getting the balljoint spacers?


Grant
 

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Josh,

I am 99.9% sure this is NOT MY problem. I wish my camber bolt holes were longer because that would help fix some of my camber problem. If I could make my cam bolt hole longer towards the outside (of the truck) and not have any negative effects on the CV joints I would do it to fix my camber and caster.

Thanks for the input though Josh. Maybe this is someone elses problem but not mine.


Grant
do you have excessive negative or positive chamber?

did the place that does your alignment give you a print out of what he was able to get the chamber too?

+/- 1 degree isnt TOO bad, but could be better

im sitting at -1.2 on the drivers and -.3 on the passengers

my mounts are effed on the drivers tho... SAS time :D
 
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